steering column control rod serrations

[duke36]

Does anyone have a technique to repair the control rod serrations without weld build up when the serrated area is essentially worn flat? I wonder if there is a thin serrated plate available that could be "cemented" in place.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

One column I had was worn badly and a triangle file saved it. The spring will pull the rod into the new serrations cut with a file.

[duke36]

Many thanks for the reply. I probably should have stated that there is not much thickness of material left, so I was thinking off adding a thin plate secured with locktite , etc..

[SAJ]

Here is what I did. The pic shows 2 brass pieces tapped and screwed onto the original places. I filed slots in for the "clicks" and it works perfectly. As usual I was in a hurry to drive to a rally and should have taken more care to make tidy, even slots, but you can see the principal.
Brass screws would have been nicer since they would wear better on the levers, but I had the stainless screws to hand and no brass ones nearby when I did the job. The spark and throttle levers were removed first, so it is not a quick fix, though I think it is a permanent one. But it offends originality somewhat, I know!!. The brass has dulled and does not stand out now it is fully installed.
SAJ in NZ

[duke36]

Saj, thanks. I may try some industrial adhesive and see if it holds.

[Bob C]

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There was a post years ago, maybe Marco, to use a sharp chisel to make the
grooves deeper.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Bob C

There was a post years ago, maybe Marco, to use a sharp chisel to make the
grooves deeper.

Bob

That's the only way I'd do it. I'd rather push the metal back to form the groove, instead of file it away.

My 28 is worn flat, but the lever still stays where I put it.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Here's an interim "trick" that will re-establish the required friction resistance between the levers and quadrant surfaces so that functionality will return. Take a heavy hammer and with the lever (spark and/or throttle) in the uppermost position, strike the hammer against the BACKSIDE of the quadrant ear, BELOW where the lever is. This will force the ear closer to the lever, starting just below the upper lever position. If there are any notches at all left in the quadrant ear, the well-known clicking sound will also be restored to some degree. Try the triangle file routine first to create at least some notches, or to deepen existing ones. This hammering needs to be done with a heavy hammer to reduce the number of strikes against the metal ear. It shouldn't hurt the metal or distort it permanently. Once the steering column is disassembled to restore it properly, the bent ears can simply be tapped back to their original positions.
Of course, due to the difference in quadrant ear design between the seven-tooth (large ears) and the two-tooth (smaller ears) systems, this procedure is more effective with the '28-29 seven-tooth design.
Try this suggestion on your driver and you'll see that it works. The levers will no longer slip upwards while driving due to vibrations. The required friction will keep the levers where you want them. As I say, this is ONLY intended as an ad hoc temporary "fix".
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

Xxxxx

[Kevin in NJ]

For mine I used the chisle and re-formed the grooves. I then welded the bottoms of the rods round, back to their original shape. I got very clear clicks with the rods. I am very pleased with the results.

Now, this may not work for all. Some are in worse shape. Poking around at flea markets I would say you should be able to locate a nicer column if you look around and not spend much. So if yours does not come up nice with a chisle I would not try to do much to fix it. I would try to find better.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Marshall, should a person hold another heavy brass hammer on the top side of the quadrant, whilst it is smacked from below, to minimize the risk of fracture? Is the quadrant forged or a cold steel stamping?

[Marshall V. Daut]

Hi, Jeff -
I suppose it wouldn't hurt to do as you suggest with a back-up hammer or dolly if you can get one to fit in the space between the steering wheel and the ears. Those metal ears are not very thick, especially if the majority of the notches are worn away (which are also metal). So they move fairly easily after being "coaxed" by that BFH.
We all probably have a spare steering column or two that we trip over in the garage. Perhaps one could practice on one of those before attempting it on the column still in the owner's car. Because of the close proximity of the steering wheel to the quadrant ears, bending the ears with a vise grips doesn't usually work = no leverage or enough room for the pliers in their arc to effect a bend. A BFH works nicely in this application, assuming the hammer strikes are well placed.
Marshall

[duke36]

After seeing a Revlon 1mm thick metal fingernail file on the table, I thought perhaps it would slide in between the rod and quadrant, since there are little to no grooves remaining. Just slid it in place and it provides good resistance and doesn't slide on the quadrant due to the abrasive surfaces on both sides of the file. I'll shape it to fit and report on how it performs over time.

[Ray64]

Was on here a while back someone drilled the handle and glued a B B in it and it worked fine

[100IH]

Less work on the quadrant and more on the levers. When the underside of the lever is worn into a big flat area, it will slide smoothly over even a new quadrant. I found that replacement levers with nickel plating were cheaper than welding, shaping, and $ plating. Some time, with the triangle file, and bending, was the only fine tuning needed. Welding the levers and plating will work too. It's two hands clapping.

[Lona]

My quadrant was flat with almost no grooves and the levers would not stay in place. It was a "back burner" project until the whole column broke and I had to repair it. After installing new lever springs, the levers now work perfectly without having to rework the quadrant grooves.

Point is that replacing the springs may be all you need to do and you can avoid screwing up the quadrant by trying to cut new grooves.

Glen

[duke36]

So far the file insert has worked. The spring pressure from the throttle return springs has to be overcome when engine running because most quadrant wear on mine is on the throttle top side area. This may only be a short term fix.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I "wonder" if the loop side of Velcro, applied to the surface, would hold them in place???---Or thin hardwood, with grooves filed in it???
Bill W.

[duke36]

Bill, good idea about the velcro. I'll try that if the nail file doesn't work out. The 1 mm thick file could be wedged in place (in my case) without removing the control rod. Many thanks for all the great suggestions.