1940 Brake Bleeding

[V8COOPMAN]

.

This is Mike42's really nice Ford tractor that he just finished restoring recently. Cool young tractor driver, for sure! DD

[mike42]

Went into town and talked with 4 shops and no one has an arbor small enough to chuck the small hub hole. Going to go with Mart's suggestion and go from there.

Thx....Mike

[19Fordy]

mike42:

Here is a thread that you must read. It deals specifically with your drum turning problem.
Very informative.

Then PM the folks in the thread who may be able to help you. Get phone numbers so you can really discuss your situation. Lots of folks don't like to spend time on the keyboard 'pecking out" replies. Too time consuming.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34184

[mike42]

Hey Fordy thx ........

I got everything removed in the brakes. The mess under all that stuff is just incredible. I keep saying that but geez what a damn mess.

The links for parking brake a swaged to the shoe bracket. Is there a work around to fit on new shoes ?

Thx for the info.

Mike

[Mart]

Parking brake links should be held by a pin with a circlip groove. You then use a deformable horseshoe clip in the groove. The pins for the rear shoes which take the main lever are longer than those for the front shoes.

[19Fordy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Mike 42: Not sure what you mean when you say, "The links for parking brake a swaged to the shoe bracket. Is there a work around to fit on new shoes ?"
The only thing swaged is the little ball at the end of the E-Brake cable that is swaged to the cable end.

If you are talking about how to "unhook or release" the parking brake cable ball end from the the brake lever, you first loosen the parking brake cable under the car where there is a cable tensioner attached to the cable. With the tension released, you pull the cable so it slips out of it's receptacle on the brake lever. WRAP THE CABLE WITH A PIECE OF LEATHER OF HOSE TP PROTECT IT FROM GETTING FRAYED OR DAMAGED by vise grips. Here's several photos that may help. Don't forget to install the rubber boots on the emergency brake tube BEFORE you reassemble the cable into position. Also the little metal spring retainer clip.

[mike42]

Fordy.......I’m referring to the links that are attached to the brake shoes that operate the parking brake. The new shoes do not have those links and the ones on the old shoes appear to be held onto the shoes by a swedged stud.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by mike42

Fordy.......I’m referring to the links that are attached to the brake shoes that operate the parking brake. The new shoes do not have those links and the ones on the old shoes appear to be held onto the shoes by a swedged stud.

The links are supposed to be attached using #2105 and #2107 that are each held in place by #2106 horseshoe clip.

[glennpm]

Another picture for you Mike

[19Fordy]

Mike: As I recall you can remove those 'links" (pins) with a drift punch and a hammer.
Then reuse them.

[mike42]

Merc, Glenn and Fordy many thx !!

I had to soak the old shoes in a cleaner last night and then took to a Powerwash to clean up all the gunk and sludge. These shoes I'm assuming are the originals from 80 years ago. The shoes are riveted and have the Ford Script stamped on each one.

I have work to do now and won't bother you for awhile. I do appreciate all the help !!

Regards.....Mike

[mike42]

I'm baaack !!

Mart.....where did you get those pins ? I had to grind away a weld puddle in order to remove them from the links.

Also....Did I read somewhere that the spindle should we wiped "very" clean as well as the as the area in drum that the spindle slides into ? I have cleaned the bearing and repacked it and installed the bearing with a new seal and clip that holds it all together..

Today may be my last at decent weather so I want to try and get as much done as possible. Snow is coming along with wind and rain !! Lovely....!

Thx again for all the help.

Mike

[V8COOPMAN]

.

The tapered end of the axle (spindle?) should be CLEAN & DRY. No form of lubricant or "Never Seize" should ever be used on a tapered-fit application. It is intended to function just like a "Morse" taper does. This is one reason that the big drum-retention NUT really needs to be so tight. That perfect, pressed-together taper is what actually forms the bond which allows the transmission of torque....the slotted key DOES NOT transfer that driving torque. So, DRY and TIGHT it is! DD

[glennpm]

Hi Mike,

Many places sell them. I like Joe's Antique in Massachusetts.

ORDERS & INFORMATION: 1-508-278-3980
Toll Free: 1-800-508-3980 24 HOUR FAX: 1-508-278-2766
Email: [email protected]

[mike42]

Coop and Glenn.....Guys this is Great !!!!!!!

Thx very much and I promise not to bother you for awhile !!!!!!

My fingers are crossed though !

Mike

[glennpm]

I think you have it under control now ;-)

[mike42]

Glenn yes I do and got it all assembled today as tomorrow is rain and snow.

I sincerely appreciate all the help on this. I’ll do left rear in Spring.

Thx ........Mike

[JSeery]

One wheel a season, you'll be done in no time!

[mike42]

Seery....I already had the fronts completed, but I was sitting there today after I got everything done and I started thinking....crap....I have the left rear now to do in Spring !! I hope I don't have the same mess as the right rear !!

Mike

[mike42]

One last question and I promise not to bother you again.....put the drum on and put in that small gasket & washer....screwed the bolt on and if I tighten too tight in order to get the cotter pin in....the wheel is tight to turn the wheel. If I back it off just a touch so I can put in the cotter pin......the wheel turns fine.
Sooooo...question is .....would the nut be too loose by just backing it off a bit ?

Thx....Mike