9" rear in a jailbar truck

[51504bat]

IIRC she can weld. Definitely a keeper.

[GB SISSON]

First girl to enter the welding program at Vashon Island high school. 3 years worth. Yeah, that gal can lay down a bead. And NO, she didn't shoot the owl for dinner. She insisted we pull over on the highway outa Tarretown Idaho to check out the poor bird that had bounced off the grill of a Kenworth. It was quite dead so she placed it out in the open for the buzzards. About 15 years ago.... Someone remind me what this thread was about. Huh?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

First girl to enter the welding program at Vashon Island high school. 3 years worth. Yeah, that gal can lay down a bead. And NO, she didn't shoot the owl for dinner. She insisted we pull over on the highway outa Tarretown Idaho to check out the poor bird that had bounced off the grill of a Kenworth. It was quite dead so she placed it out in the open for the buzzards. About 15 years ago.... Someone remind me what this thread was about. Huh?

[GB SISSON]

Boy, this thread has a mind of it's own. I know we'll get back to serious business after we return home from the hunt... I mean the doctor visit! And thanks again Pete for the nice portrait.

[tubman]

Maybe if "Marvel Mystery Oil" made a rear end lube.....

[Bored&Stroked]

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Gary, you should have had that dang owl stuffed . . . would be a heck of a 'pet' to have out in your shop! Watching over all the madness that occurs in our work!

[cas3]

Can you get away with buying her a nice tig welder for Christmas?

[cas3]

look at Rock Auto for bearings, I think you'll find them quite reasonable

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cas3

look at Rock Auto for bearings, I think you'll find them quite reasonable

I have National part # 514003 bearing with retainer and #51098 seal coming along with felpro gaskets at the 4 bolt ends and the pumpkin. X 2 for both sides.

[GB SISSON]

I got a chance today to start stripping parts off the axle assembly. I have watched a few youtube episodes about removing the old wheel bearings and their pressed on keepers. I wasn't sure I liked cutting deep slots through all these pieces without nicking the axle shaft so I went another route. I had an idea to cut a length of steel pipe, weld a 3/4" nut on the end and then weld a couple scraps of 1/8 x 3/4" strap to the other end to weld the keeper ring and crank a 3/4" bolt through the nut into the splined end of the axle shaft. 'Weld heat expands ring and I simply wrench the ring upwards'. Much to my dismay , every nut, bolt, pipe and washer I could find was galvanized. In a hurry, didn't remove enough zinc so had a weld fail. Once I repaired that, my 1/2" impact sheared off the drive bolt which I made from a piece of galvanized 3/4" all-thread that I shouldered down to accept a 1/2" lug nut plug welded on the end. I found a big square galvanized nut to weld on instead but was sick of grinding off the zinc. In the final analysis, the cut-off wheel seemed like a darned good idea and no nicks at all. Next remove all parts from the housing. I DID get some satisfaction from removing the oil seals with a heavy steel bar from a fireplace flue damper plate. It has a series of hook notches and made light work of it, neatly pulling each seal in three jerks.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I got a chance today to start stripping parts off the axle assembly.

[pistonbroke]

Gary, I never cut all the way though. Just enough so I can split it with a a good chissel and hammer. The collers are much softer than the bearing. Tim

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by pistonbroke

Gary, I never cut all the way though. Just enough so I can split it with a a good chissel and hammer. The collers are much softer than the bearing. Tim

Yes Tim. I understand that from the video. And the collar was tougher to break off with the air chisel. The bearing races as expected, broke like glass. I cut at about a 45degree angle so as not to cut into the bearing retainer plate as I was using a standard (but worn down) 4" cutoff blade. In looking at my failed puller, I may have inadvertently created the world's fastest caulking gun, so all is not lost
Now the question segment: The brake tubes on this 1971 axle look smaller than on my '47 jailbar. Should I try to find a conversion size or adapter for the rubber hose and keep everything on the axles at 3/16" or whatever that is I'm looking at?

[cas3]

If you are staying with the original MC, I would look for a wheel cylinder that same bore, that uses a 1/4" line. If going to a dual MC, then start plumbing the whole truck like a 71 ford, 3 1/6

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cas3

If you are staying with the original MC, I would look for a wheel cylinder that same bore, that uses a 1/4" line. If going to a dual MC, then start plumbing the whole truck like a 71 ford, 3 1/6

Ok Skip, I'm leaning towards single master. All wheel cyls and lines are new along with the master. For added safety I have a remote resevoir I made from a gas engine drip oiler to mount on the firewall that never got installed. What about all the other aspects of this new 1/4" style of wheel cylinder? Bolt spacing, center indexing circle etc? Anyone here have a source or number for such a cylinder, or pair of cylinders?

[cas3]

I think the hole and the bolt spacing is pretty generic on car size stuff. My 61 has 3/16 Lines, maybe earlier f100's, or f1's, not sure when Ford got away from 1/4" lines.

It may work fine as is with just the rubber line to the diff with 2 different size ends if there is such a thing. I'm not a brakeoligist, maybe some one else has some thoughts.

[GB SISSON]

I'm not a proctologist, but I've been working on a rear end most of the day. Is there a brakeologist in the house? The little hole bored into the wheel cylinder at the inverted flare fitting is pretty goldang small, so that must limit flow to a point? When Henry switched from 1/4" lines to 3/16" he not only saved money on the lines themselves, but fittings and a half ounce of brake fluid too. If I was a hick I'd just get a double barb fitting and use half of each hose. Double hose clamps on each barb (for safety) of course.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Gary, my F3 has 1/4" brake lines and the 72 F250 Dana 60 has 3/16 lines to the wheel cylinders. I kept it that way by modifying my Tee fitting and using two adapters. Been working trouble free for many years and yes it stops well.


Here's the stock hose and block. The long nipple is from the 1972 F250. That hose was cut off by the PO and wouldn't have worked anyway. I had to drill out the block so the nipple would fit. It originally had a hose going up under the bed for a vent. The small breather is the original from the Timken rear.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...bd343ba6b5.jpg

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Sorry, I was not able to copy and paste from my post over on FTE. It lets me include a link to the pic though.


Block drilled out. Adapters are Edelman #258340.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a9064a5716.jpg

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I cut the nipple down, drilled and tapped it to 1/8" NPT so I could put the stock breather in. I really don't want to run a hose up under the bed. Washer is a crush washer to seal the bolt.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0759929f4e.jpg