03-10-2018, 11:15 AM | #61 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
I suspect the average person buying one of these "new" blocks would want as much of the machining done at the point of sale as possible rather than have to "farm it out" with a hope and a prayer to another shop. Most shops don't mess with flatheads.
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03-10-2018, 01:09 PM | #62 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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I will chamfer the valve seats during machining like I do on my Model A iron blocks and the builder will have to seat the valves. I do not know what the cost to seat valves is. I will bore the cam and crank during machining and they will have to be line honed. I will ream the end journals (cam and crank) to within .01 and then bore the center journals to within .01. The cylinders will be bored to within .01 of stock. If someone wants larger than stock their builder will have to do it. Lifter bores will be reamed to size and shouldn't need touched. The valve guide bores will be reamed to size. Obviously, I will bore the lifter holes before reaming to make sure they are in the right spots. Same with the valve guide holes. Decks will be left a little high (say .01 or.02) like I do with all blocks I have ever made. Tod |
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03-10-2018, 04:20 PM | #63 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
I'm glad to see this, it will make it easier for a shop to finish the block for the average builder. Will you make provisions for the 21 stud heads. Any changes to the water jackets around the intake ports for racers?. These kind of mods will increase sales. I have a fellow interested in getting one, I hope//
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03-10-2018, 04:33 PM | #64 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
How great it would be to even hope for 21 bolt 35-36 blocks being available for our original restoring.
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03-10-2018, 04:56 PM | #65 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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I have not made allowance for 21 stud yet. Tod |
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03-10-2018, 05:52 PM | #66 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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Isn't this just what you were advising against about a page back? Maybe the changes to the intake water jackets, but provisions for 21 studs? I would think that would be a bridge to far. |
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03-10-2018, 06:03 PM | #67 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
Quote:
I went past the intake question by accident. I have increased the intake ports and softened the turn from intake to deck surfaces. The jacket has been changed to allow more porting to my design and with little chance of break-through. Tod |
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03-10-2018, 07:12 PM | #68 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
Thanks for this info. This is all good to know. It will just be a matter of finishing and that is generally just an align hone to fit with the centers already correct. The decks wouldn't be bad either as long as the machine shop has good machinery for finishing.
Many of the later 1951 & on blocks had no valve seat inserts at all. If someone wants them, it's just a matter of counter boring for them and installing as needed. I think I would go without. The cast iron technology and composition is likely a lot better for durability that is was in the early 50s. In any case, they would likely only need the exhausts done like Ford did them for trucks in the later part of the 8BA era. It would be kind of neat cutting or grinding in seats on a block that has not yet had any. Most of the ones I've found over the years had a lot of wear on them. Last edited by rotorwrench; 03-10-2018 at 07:22 PM. |
03-10-2018, 07:17 PM | #69 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
I think that this will be alright. The folks buying these would be using the best machine shops they can find, who should be up to the task.
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03-11-2018, 07:37 AM | #70 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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Let's hope so. My first inclination was to bash a build shop that can't finish machine one of these, but in my experience most shops aren't really engine machine shops, so I will try to help out on my end. I know 2 local shops that can't do extensive machining but they can still do quite a bit of finish work. If someone wants me to use local shops for a ready-to-assemble block that is a possibility. I have at least 4 shops to choose from. Tod |
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03-11-2018, 08:57 AM | #71 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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__________________
“The technique of infamy is to start two lies at once and get people arguing heatedly over which is true.” ~ Ezra Pound |
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03-11-2018, 12:52 PM | #72 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
To allow a casting to offer either 21 or 24 studs, is relatively simple, Just place a bung where the 21 stud heads go. then they can be drilled and tapped. all the rest of the holes are in the same place. I used a 24 stud head gasket on the 21 stud build for the larger bore.,
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03-11-2018, 01:02 PM | #73 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
Quote:
Right. I just haven't done it yet. I probably will put in the bosses so it is accounted for from the start. Tod |
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03-12-2018, 01:36 PM | #74 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
I like the idea of the extra 21 Stud bosses - will be something that a few guys that want a "21 stud looking engine" will utilize. Obviously if one really knows how to look at an early block (starting with the integral bell housing), they'll know an engine built with this new block is not original.
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03-12-2018, 04:11 PM | #75 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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03-12-2018, 04:28 PM | #76 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
I thinl we have a winner here.
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03-14-2018, 09:44 AM | #77 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
21 stud gasket on my 8BA.
Tod |
03-14-2018, 11:26 AM | #78 |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
Just think, Now the 21 stud guys can have a 258 cR 8:1 Cr engine with all stock bolt on stuff. With 8BA crank and rods. I remember putting an 8BA crank in Paul Howard's 37 21 stud engine. We were then going to do that with a Merc crank, but never got around to it. Sure miss him, RIP
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03-14-2018, 08:40 PM | #79 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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03-16-2018, 06:17 AM | #80 | |
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Re: 8BA tooling.
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Hmmmm . . . maybe I'll think about high quality 3/8" 'step studs' and go to 3 1/2". I'll have to look into that! |
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