Hard to turn engine over A ford 1929

[Jacksonlll]

Something easy you can try. Looks like you have the 12 volt cables on there. They can't handle the current of a 6 volt system. Leave it as it is and put a jumper cable between the negative post and the starter. This will give you, essentially a bigger cable that should carry the current for a test. All you probably need is the 6 volt cable that the guys have been telling you. Try it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

As mentioned already, measure the voltage drop in the cable. Just connect the negative meter lead to the batter post, and the positive lead to the starter switch, then see how many volts show on the meter while you are using the starter. 6 volts should show less then 1 volt, so set the meter on a low DC voltage.

[J Franklin]

NAPA should be able to make you 00 cables to fit.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

NAPA should be able to make you 00 cables to fit.

Do they have NAPA in Norway?

[gimlegule]

No we dont have NAPA in Norway but we have Eiker Motorshop which sells parts for A Ford, I can chech With them for original 6 Volt cables as the 12 volt I use now is thinner, so thanks thats a good point, I can try to put a thick starting cable on the minus battery to the starter as suggested , that way I can see if thicker cables makes a difference. When I jogg my memorie back I think the cranking problem started after adjusting the advansed timing, so I will check that again. That would make sence since everything was ok weeks ago. I will let you know, its snow here now, so not a good time to push start a A Ford With summer Wheels. PS posted Pictures of the gallery to those who want to see it, Black & blue With gold rims
Thanks for all the Brain storming you guys are so helpfull Thanks I used to live in USA Eau Claire WI and I miss the friendly People in the states !!!

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Originally Posted by gimlegule

No we dont have NAPA in Norway but we have Eiker Motorshop which sells parts for A Ford, I can chech With them for original 6 Volt cables as the 12 volt I use now is thinner, so thanks thats a good point, I can try to put a thick starting cable on the minus battery to the starter as suggested , that way I can see if thicker cables makes a difference. When I jogg my memorie back I think the cranking problem started after adjusting the advansed timing, so I will check that again. That would make sence since everything was ok weeks ago. I will let you know, its snow here now, so not a good time to push start a A Ford With summer Wheels. PS posted Pictures of the gallery to those who want to see it, Black & blue With gold rims
Thanks for all the Brain storming you guys are so helpfull Thanks I used to live in USA Eau Claire WI and I miss the friendly People in the states !!!

Don't forget! The ground cable carries exactly as much current as the starter cable so it has to be the same size.

[Mitch//pa]

The ground is a lead strap or a braided cable originally depending on the production year. It wont look the same as the cable going to the starter motor if your intention is a stock appearance and design

[gimlegule]

Thanks will look into changing both cables.

[gimlegule]

Just added heavy duty jumpercables in adition to the 35mm new battery cables on both positiv and starter still hardly turns. I checked the scrues holding the starte to makwe sure they where not too loong touching anything on the inside.I also adjusted the advanced timing in different position after and before the corect pohisition and tried the advansed level up and down in different posision as well as I was cranking, well none of thise helped anything. Will have a mechanic come and look things over tomorrow to see if he can solve the mystery

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi gim,

Sounding more and more like a possible tight-bearing adjustment problem; and just in case it is:

FWIW: You may or may not want to try this:

Ford never wrote much about adjusting Babbitt bearings often during the Model A era, maybe because all the vintage mechanics already knew how to adjust Babbitt bearings before and during the Model T era. Ford does explicitly mention adjusting Babbitt bearings in his Model T manuals.

We were always taught that like with Ford's recommended Model T method, if your connecting rod bearings cannot easily move from side to side a little, they are too tight.

If your crankshaft cannot move slightly from front to rear it is usually too tight.

Because of these engines being lubricated with an oil splash system, as opposed to a pressurized system, it is necessary to maintain an oil film between the Babbitt and the journals not only for lubrication; but, also for oil cooling and preventing friction heat build up.

When young, we never even heard of Plasti-Gage that came out later in the 1950's.

We were taught to adjust bearings by wiping all excess oil off of journals and Babbitt and to adjust shims until we could "feel" absolutely "no" up and down movement but could "feel" sideways movement.

This same method worked for our ancestors on large industrial steam engines, installed in mills before internal combustion engines.

I just adjusted all of my Model A bearings with this method 10 years ago and also during the past 59 years, and never encountered a problem with this bearing adjustment method.

[Mitch//pa]

Did u ever check the length of the starter bolts?

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Hi gim,

Sounding more and more like a possible tight-bearing adjustment problem; and just in case it is:

See OP post #6.

It sounds like it was starting fine on the starter and small battery cables recently. He has also tried another known good starter. If I interpret the info he has provided correctly, I think we can rule out improper bearing adjustment, the small cables, or a bad starter.

Also, he reports "easy to turn with the crank with the spark plugs out". And that he cleaned the starter switch and it looks good. (post #34)

I guess I'd rule out any sort of mechanical binding (clutch dragging, water pump/generator dragging, etc) with this info.

He might try removing the starter switch and touching the - end of the battery cable there just to make sure that even though the switch "looks" good that it actually is good.

High timing is the only other thing I can think of at this point

[denniskliesen]

I've seen thick oil in cold weather do this before... What weight or viscosity oil are you running in your engine? What is the temperature there now?

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi gim,

In your comment,

"Will have a mechanic come and "look" things over tomorrow to "see" if he can solve the mystery." ,

one (1) thing is certain ...... "seeing" sounds like a wonderful very prudent plan, and certainly something none of us have done so far after 53 replies. LOL

No matter what, let us hope for the best.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Cranking the engine with the key OFF will eliminate any timing concerns.

Connect a volt meter to the battery posts and read the voltage while cranking.

Lay an inductive ammeter on the starter cable and read the amps while cranking.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Cranking the engine with the key OFF will eliminate any timing concerns.

Good point, Tom!

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by tom wesenberg

cranking the engine with the key off will eliminate any timing concerns.

Connect a volt meter to the battery posts and read the voltage while cranking.

Lay an inductive ammeter on the starter cable and read the amps while cranking.

Originally Posted by dick steinkamp

good point, tom!

post #17

[H. L. Chauvin]

When the mechanic visits, if he finds the problem, the Bingo Game will be over.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

post #17

...and Mitch!

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

When the mechanic visits, if he finds the problem, the Bingo Game will be over.

but then we get to see who won the cookie by correctly guessing the problem!