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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 433
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@wuga Why a S-10 T5 and not a Jeep T5? What are the differences?
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 80
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The Jeep are much harder to find although I prefer the Jeep since it is shorter. Vintage metalworks now makes an adaptor for the Jeep. Kato King used to make a really nice adaptor as well but I don't know if they are still available. Here is my recipe for the Jeep.
Warren The Easy and Definitive T5 Upgrade in your Model A 4 Banger This is best done with the body off. It assumes mechanical brakes are being retained. A 1982-86 Jeep T5 less the transfer case is being used. Remove all brake rods. Remove center cross member by grinding and removing rivets. Remove e-brake cross shaft. Remove e-brake handle. Remove brake cross shaft. Unbolt rear spring Remove clam shell Slide rearend assembly out from under back of car Stand rearend on jack stands with torque tube vertical Remove axles. A good puller needed. Mitchell sells one. Remove radius rods from backing plates and torque tube Remove speedometer housing Remove torque tube Remove speedo gear and bearing from front of torque tube Remove transmission Remove clutch and flywheel Cut torque tube approximately 7” from rear flange Remove 6.5” from front half of tube Machine back ½” of front tube to fit in back portion of tube Be sure to keep proper alignment of radius rod mount and flange bolts. A total of 7” of length now removed from tube. Weld tube. Remove driveshaft and pinion gear from banjo using Mitchell pinion puller. Remove 7” from rear of driveshaft about 7” ahead of pinion gear. Align drive shaft pieces and weld. Install pinion gear back into banjo using Mitchell installer tool. Install torque tube over driveshaft and bolt to banjo. Install new front bearing in torque tube and reinstall speedo gear. Install speedometer housing. Install new pilot bearing in flywheel. Install ring gear on flywheel. Install Burtz 30 lb. flywheel, torque to 55 lbs. Install V8 clutch using disk from Vintage Precision. Torque clutch bolts to 25 lbs. Install Vintage Precision bell housing, Machine T5 input shaft as per instructions from Vintage Precision. Cut out rear mount from transmission. With Jeep T5 complete less transfer case, install to bell housing. Install Kato King adaptor to tail of T5. Install front half of clam shell Install rearend assembly back into universal joint. Install split part of clam shell. Clamp in rear spring. Weld 1/8” plate on ends of cross member. Install cross member 2.625” rearward of original position. Drill six 5/16” holes in frame and on each end of cross member. Cut center from brake cross shaft and modify as per diagram. It is imperative to keep the ends of the shaft where the bearing goes in alignment, I had three tries before I got it right. Perhaps mounting it to the frame before welding might help. I did not do this. Remount brake cross shaft. One bolt will be under cross member. Remove pin from e-brake shaft actuator, move actuator 4” to passenger side and weld. Mount e-brake cross shaft. Make mounting plate for e-brake handle as per diagram. Mount e-brake plate and handle to T5. Mount pedals to Vintage Precision pedal shaft. Re-install brake rods Be sure to check all fluids and grease fittings. Parts highly recommended to upgrade Model A transmission to T5 Mitchell pinion puller/installer https://mitchelloverdrives.com/mitch...on-puller-kit/ Mitchell hub puller https://mitchelloverdrives.com/mitchell-hub-puller/ Burtz lightened flywheel https://burtzblock.com/products/flywheels Vintage Precision bell housing http://www.vintageprecision.com/prod...ngs/index.html Vintage Precision 9” clutch disk V8 clutch pressure plate from speedway Kato King Jeep to closed driveshaft adaptor (507-382-9415) https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...apter.1002913/ Jeep 1982-86 T5 transmission. (Shortest T5) The Borg Warner T5 transmissions were standard shift five-speed transmissions found in 1982 to 1986 Jeep CJ models. I posted this on the HAMB with pictures and drawings for reference. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14769385 |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,808
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Thanks, that is very comprehensive.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 433
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It's a little surprising to me that S-10 4WD T5s are easier to find than Jeep CJ T5s. Maybe 4WD S-10s are more common in other parts of the country than where I live. Jeep CJ owners view the T5 as weak and will often swap them out.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 80
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The T5 has its' limitations, especially in a rock crawler Jeep or high horse power S10, but behind a 4 cylinder banger, you will never hurt it. The main reason for putting a T5 in is for the O/D and the ability to cruise. Installing a 3 or 4 speed gives you no better cruising speed although you get synchronizers.
Warren |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 54
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Denver Area
Posts: 458
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I have found that the S10 T-5's and the Ford T-170's are becoming rare. Is there another option that has popped up in the mean-time? Or does anyone have a good source for these? If you say the local junkyard, you haven't tried looking.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Durango CO
Posts: 1,345
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I installed a T-5 23 years ago and when I installed a new motor, there were some issues with the original kit. I was able to find seals and an adapter to go back to using the Model A clutch disc and throw out bearing. The original kit was from Auto Restoration. Rather than screw around, I bought a brand new S-10 T-5 from the dealer for $1100. Same thing from Tremic is around $3K. We also made a bolt on reinforcement piece BEFORE we cut the cross member and reinforced the rear wish bones. Thousands of miles with no issues in 23 years and would do it again in a heartbeat.
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No restorable Model A's were harmed in the building of this truck! |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,642
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 80
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So am I. If you have the Mitchell puller for the drive shaft, you don't need to remove the axles and I never did. Must have been a brain fart. I will review and revise.
Thanks Warren |
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