|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
|
![]()
thanksfor this info. think ill give it a try on the next one
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,712
|
![]()
What size engine is this distributor from? Looking on-line I see different distributors for different size engines.
__________________
If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 293
|
![]()
It is used on both the 1300 and 1500 civic and some other models. GUESS WHAT? The $24.99 ones have now disappeared from FleaBay, I suspect from all the recent purchases that have happened since this modification for model As has caught on. For now, I recommend the men's mall as the source. Here is a link to a picture of one.
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...p=rock&jsn=400 By the way, I've torn down 4 of these now, all rebuilt by Cardone, same PN. All were different springs, and one came with cap and rotor, the others not. Two different looking modules, some with lots of grease/oil in them, one totally dry, all with varying shims. I'm not sure what the deal is, but Cardone's rebuild process seems to vary a lot from unit to unit. Men's mall units are probably just as good. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
|
![]()
I cant find one locally here, in Alberta tried NAPA 375.00$ for a rebuilt. gotta keep looking how many have you built Corley?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 293
|
![]()
I've only done 4, but I'm out of cores now. I think rockauto has them for $97 or so, but really a men's mall unit would be fine.
Or, if you don't mind big and ugly, an Olds HEI unit turns the proper direction and is easily reurved. You might check with Bubba's Ignitions, I suspect he is the one who bought up all the cheap ones on fleabay, but I don't know for sure. Might be able to get one from him all ready to drop in.
__________________
Corley ----------------- Subscribed to the KISS principle! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hudson, NY
Posts: 568
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Frank |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
|
![]()
I see them on fleebay for around 120$ canadian. Gettin closser
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 293
|
![]()
LowdownA. Pretty cool looking flatty in your avatar there, that looks like more fun than polishing nickel parts.
Emf. Go for it, you just might like it. Beater. You are getting closer, but no cigar yet. They are out there, keep looking. Not really any hurry, so take your time.
__________________
Corley ----------------- Subscribed to the KISS principle! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Uniontown, MO
Posts: 108
|
![]()
I just looked and found this one on ebay. Is it the correct distributor Corley, or is it an earlier model? I noticed it didn't list as going into the '80s
Edit - Oops, forgot the link. Here it is https://www.ebay.com/itm/A1-Cardone-...kAAMXQUmFSjWb9 Lynn Last edited by lake_harley; 06-07-2018 at 10:40 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 293
|
![]()
Sorry, that one is the older point type. It could be used, but you would miss out on the electronics part of the deal. The same modifications are required to use it though.
__________________
Corley ----------------- Subscribed to the KISS principle! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Florham Park, NJ
Posts: 396
|
![]()
Corely:
Did you do anything to lubricate the shaft? Thanks Dick
__________________
1965 Lotus Elan S2 1930 Model A Sport Coupe |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Uniontown, MO
Posts: 108
|
![]() Quote:
I wondered about that after seeing it's discrepancy from the years of applications you posted earlier. Back to looking, I suppose. Thanks! Lynn |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 293
|
![]()
Just grease on the bushings, like the rebuilders did. They are oil impregnated bushings.
__________________
Corley ----------------- Subscribed to the KISS principle! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Florham Park, NJ
Posts: 396
|
![]()
Corley:
OK Thanks Dick
__________________
1965 Lotus Elan S2 1930 Model A Sport Coupe |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 2,617
|
![]()
Why not just convert a "B" distributor by installing a "lobe-sensor" Pertronix module?
I have done this to a "Helmet Distributor" on my Flathead V8. Works great, about $100.00, does need 12 volts tho |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
|
![]() Quote:
no vacume advance then. actually that's what ive done, but no peronix just a modern breaker plate and points lots like them but in my experience petronix are not reliable enough |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Uniontown, MO
Posts: 108
|
![]() Quote:
If you were replying to me, I have a "B" distributor that's going to need a good freshening. The Honda conversion just sounded like it has several advantages over the "B", especially the vacuum advance. If I don't have any luck finding someone with a lathe and some talent to machine I Honda distributor to work in my A, I'll probably just use the "B" distributor and leave it points, either old style or modern. The beauty of points is that even on the side of the road I could probably at least get it running again.....not so if the smoke blows out of an electronic distributor. Lynn |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
BANNED
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1,262
|
![]()
Late model vacuum /mechanical advance distributors were designed with emission control in mind,advancing the spark under no load peak vacuum conditions to lean the burn.This also strips deposits in the combustion chamber by raising combustion temperatures. I'm not so sure the long term effects are beneficial.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 293
|
![]() Quote:
Well, let's squash that right now, because it is simply not true. Centrifugal advance and vacuum advance were implemented by almost all auto makers in the 1930s, and had absolutely nothing to do with emmisions. Additionally, these advances do not increase operating temperatures, in point of fact, they have the opposite effect. Yes, in the late 1960s, and even further into the 1970s, additional controls were added for emmisions, and ported vacuum was used with a meriad of other ideas to control emmissions, which had multiple negative effects. The use of the Honda distributor does not include any of these items/controls. Really, railcarmover, you simply have not been fully informed/educated on this subject, and have made inaccurate statements. While the benefits of the vacuum advance on the model A engine may be minimal, given the archane nature of the beast with limited power output, they are in no way harmful in any aspect other than not looking "original". Some people think that because most race cars don't use a vacuum advance, cars don't need them. Just think about the face application for a minute. They run with the throttle wide open, hence almost no vacuum. Of course a vacuum advance has no benefit there. But in your street car, vacuum is an indicator of the load on the engine, and the mixture involved at that instant. Remember, lean mixtures burn slower than richer mixtures, and when you put you foot in it, the engine takes in more A/F. The air compresses, but the fuel part doesn't, hence the mixture is denser, and urns faster. This faster burn requires a bit of spark retard to avoid pre-ignition. The centrifugal advance takes care of having less time from firing off the mixture, until optimal force, which needs to occur at around 15-18 degrees after TDC, when engine speeds increase. The vacuum advance, takes care of allowing greater advance during periods of leaner mixtures, when the engine is under light loads, thus optimizing engine performance and economy. This is not my theory, it is well established internal combustion ignition fired engine science, and is fact. The model A came out just as these things were being fully understood, and Henry was slow to accept them, but with the V8, he did include these items. Please educate yourself before making incorrect statements like those.
__________________
Corley ----------------- Subscribed to the KISS principle! |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
BANNED
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1,262
|
![]()
Im quoting you here:
"The vacuum advance, takes care of allowing greater advance during periods of leaner mixtures, when the engine is under light loads, thus optimizing engine performance and economy." It optimizes performance and economy by raising combustion temperature resulting in a hotter burn.Its not conjecture on my part,or misinformation,its fact.The impact of it on a model a engine might not be a benefit.I don't care about looking original,and I understand the driveability improvement vacuum advance allows.In my opinion a cooler 'wetter' combustion chamber provided by mechanical advance is superior to the clean burn hotter chamber of a dual advance distributor.I applaud your refitting and testing a Honda distributor,innovation creates progress. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|