Best rust solution?

[Jack E/NJ]

I thought the fluorescent dyes used in anti-freeze lose their fluorescent qualities to indicate that they should be replaced?

Jack E/NJ

[Kahuna]

Where is Evapo sold? I've not seen it.
Thanks

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

Where is Evapo sold? I've not seen it.
Thanks

O’Reilly’s Auto Parts is where I just bought mine.

Also at:

Pep Boys
AutoZone
Advance Auto Parts
Fastenal
Harbor Freight
Mustangs Unlimited
Northern Tool & Equipment
RustRemover.net
Summit Racing
The Rust Store
True Value
Workshop Tools

5 gal. bucket at Sears

[john in illinois]

I have used wood bleach (oxalic acid that used to be Prestone radiator flush, and washing soda, not baking soda to neutralize). I ran my model A for a summer with water wetter and plain water. Big mistake ,huge rust in the block.

Here is a long complicated post about this cleaner.http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ner-flush.html


9 dry oz of Oxalic Acid (DAP Wood Bleach)
2 dry oz of Sodium Carbonate (Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda)
Mix acid with water in a bucket,pour in and idle untill up to temperature and leave in for a couple of hours. Neutralize with washing soda. This took all the rust out of my block and it does not attack any good metal.

This stuff really works. Here is a thread on HAMB. Doesn't even harm paint.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ht=oxalic+acid

John

[Bertha]

Thank's Henry... been considering it for an engine flush.

Bob

[Kahuna]

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Thanks Henry
Also wondering how you know when it's done it's job?
I did notice it said to repeat the process

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

Thanks Henry
Also wondering how you know when it's done it's job?
I did notice it said to repeat the process

I'm assuming that it works like Naval Jelly that I've used for years. You know it's done its job when the rust is gone. Inside the engine? Well, that's why I'm testing it on my water pumps. If the Evapo-rust one is clean in the morning then I'll know it takes 12 hours or less. The instructions on the container say 2-12 hours. After that rinse it off to see if the rust is all gone and if not soak it again.

[poweredbylincoln]

soak in white viniger then rinse!!

best thing since sliced bread!!

[Jack E/NJ]

Henry>>>I'm not sure what all of this discussion about radiators is. Mine is good.>>>

I think their concern here Henry, is that when the Evapo Rust or vinegar goes to work on cleaning your block, they might loosen chunky stuff up that'll clog up your good radiator.

Jack E/NJ

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Henry>>>I'm not sure what all of this discussion about radiators is. Mine is good.>>>

I think their concern here Henry, is that when the Evapo Rust or vinegar goes to work on cleaning your block, they might loosen chunky stuff up that'll clog up your good radiator.

Jack E/NJ

We'll see, if and when any rust is removed from the pumps, whether there are any "chunks" that would clog the radiator and will act accordingly. From all of the rust removal I've done before (the most dramatic with Muratic acid) I've never seen "chunks". All rust just dissolves into the solution.

[oldbugger]

Prof. Henry, I would check with your rebuilder and see how he cleaned it at rebuild time. It might be he cleaned the block but left the pumps on the bench. If the block was cleaned well, I would put the new pumps on and use a 50/50 mix, gives the best protection, that how it was meant to be used. Change coolant every 2 yrs. jmo. Paul

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by oldbugger

Prof. Henry, I would check with your rebuilder and see how he cleaned it at rebuild time. It might be he cleaned the block but left the pumps on the bench.

I thought about it and reached the same conclusion. The rust in my pumps is probably from 5 years and 45,000 miles use.

Still, if I find something that will remove it from the pumps I'll probably go ahead and put it in the engine to clean it out, "just in case." I hate boiling over. Even just one more time will be too many.

[Binx]

Henry, I believe your major buildup is calcium with a rust tint. I don't recall you using distilled water in your system with the additive. Remember where you live is the remains (Salt Lake) of a giant prehistoric inland ocean and your ground water is rife with calcium/lime from all those little shell critters. Try some Limeaway on those pumps. If those deposits in the pump foam up then it is a calcium problem.

Lonnie

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Binx

Henry, I believe your major buildup is calcium with a rust tint. I don't recall you using distilled water in your system with the additive. Remember where you live is the remains (Salt Lake) of a giant prehistoric inland ocean and your ground water is rife with calcium/lime from all those little shell critters. Try some Limeaway on those pumps. If those deposits in the pump foam up then it is a calcium problem.

Lonnie

I generally try to use either distilled water or softened (decalcified) water. Sometimes on the road, though, when the water blows out I put in whatever is at hand. Usually drinking water from a convenience store (has some minerals in it).

As far as I know, Lime-away is just an acid like vinegar, both of which should dissolve calcium. If I have both rust and calcium it may take both the Evapo-rust and vinegar to do the job. We'll see.

[Binx]

Well yes, limeaway is an acid like vinegar is an acid. Both are lower on the Ph scale but are two different animals. Limeaway is sulfamic acid which has a unique affinity to attack calcium. Vinegar....not so much. You might want to give it a try.

Lonnie

[VeryTangled]

Hello Everyone, Even the outside of the left pump is looking better! Fascinating!

VT/JeffH

[Old Henry]

Interesting. After 12 hours no more changes by the Evapo-rust on the left but the vinegar is obviously eating away whatever warts were under the rust (not doing much for the rust itself). The "warts" actually seem to look a little worse with the Evapo-rust. I'll keep soaking and see what more happens.

[TStiles]

This is a great thread, thanks for the updates, Professor. Prof. Henry, the Barn's very own "Mr. Wizard".

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by TStiles

This is a great thread, thanks for the updates, Professor. Prof. Henry, the Barn's very own "Mr. Wizard".

Funny. I just watched the very first episode of Mr. Wizard on YouTube (1951) and he was showing a kid how to make a volcano with none other than Asbestos paper. Add some ammonium-dichromate, ground up sparklers, and a fuse and stand back. (Built and lit on a piece of bare plywood to "protect" the table. ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l570H7wQdpo

[FlatheadTed]

I use as a rust inhibiter Lath cutting fluid ,this is common in the Model A part of the hobby .Anty freeze is ok if you change it on the due date ,