|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 75
|
![]() Hi guy's,, I noticed in the first page of the Jan. 28 service bulletin's about setting the point's & timming. It call's for .015 to .018...I know it was latter changed to 18 to 22... My old VW manuel called for .016 point's setting.. I'am thinking the 16 will give a hotter spark...BTW I'am using the New "B" point's cam the supplier's sell ... Any thought's about why Ford changed the setting at a latter date ? Also alway had trouble with the "Rubbing block" wearing down real fast..Were the original's like that ? Thanks,, Greg out west |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,868
|
![]()
The rubbing block will wear initially when new. As soon as you notice the change in timing just reset your points. Make sure you add point block grease to the cam. Ford engineering determined that a point setting of .018" to .022 worked best.
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]()
The B cam will give more dwell for a hotter spark. The speed of the Model A engine and only 4 lobes on the cam gives enough dwell anyway, without going to a closer setting. As Ron states, a clean well lubed cam should give long wear on the points block. I'm not familure with wear on new points because I'm stll using old original points.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
|
![]()
I have been setting Model A points at .020 for years and the car runs well, until the points close up. This will certainly happen with reproduction points. Like Tom above, I use old original points I salvaged out of cruddy distributors. I just keep filing the points and re-setting them. The only reason I would discard them is if after many years and miles of use the rubbing blocks wear enough to allow the arm to short out.
Tom Endy |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
|
![]()
Everything you you ever needed to know about timing the Model
A. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,099
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
1. The smaller the point gap the greater the risk of the points arcing which of course is a great way to shorten the useful life span of your points (among other things). 2. Dwell angle is WAY over emphasized in our application. I assume most have heard of the relationship between dwell and coil saturation time. TIME is the key word. An engine spinning 1250 RPM has FOUR TIMES the amount of time to reach peak intensity as does the same engine spinning 5000 RPM. Most of the folks that seem to "dwell" on this issue will rarely spin higher than 2000 RPM! If you indeed have a weak spark look elsewhere. 3. On later cars with factory specs for both point gap and dwell, unless a distributor is badly worn setting the points and setting the dwell are in fact the same. If you can get a clean read with a feeler and set point gap to specs, the dwell will read exactly correct. I've found in these conditions the ONLY time there is a benefit to a dwell meter is when the points can be adjusted with the engine running.
__________________
http://www.abarnyard.com/ |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|