|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Mebane NC
Posts: 2,848
|
![]() Quote:
It's important with either the A or B distributor to have a cam that's machined correctly. You can run the B distributor with the A-style cam if your engine doesn't rev too high. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,152
|
![]()
This is a very early Mallory dual point. It used the original pop out ignition cable. It only had 1 set of points and they are impossible to find. I'm making a set using V8 flathead points and machining new phenolic block.
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,425
|
![]()
Jim in post 20 is correct; however the FSI zipper (with H.C.head) may need to be modified with different springs from FSI to get enough retard to prevent pinging (knock) on hills. Also, our zipper had no casting pin to lock the distributor to the head like a stock one.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,152
|
![]()
There is also a difference between early Zippers and the current ones. I need to send my early one in to have it modified for my 7:1 Brierley head. There are several internal parts that need to be changed to bring it current.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 433
|
![]()
There was a Mallory YA11A distributor as well. I think it was earlier than the Mallory YL11A distributor. Both could be had with single or dual points according to what I have read
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 1
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 311
|
![]()
Quote:
***** Product: FSI Zipper distributor What it does: Same as std FSI distributor but with outward appearance almost identical to stock A distributor. Difficulty: Easy Pros: Lets you use stock plug connectors; all the benefits of the FSI distributor with stock appearance. Cons: Most expensive option (currently $600 with accessories). ***** Some other Pros – - available as 6vPos or 12vNeg - phone support available from the company - 30 month warranty Worth the price to keep the original look. Quote: ***** FSI zipper (with H.C.head) may need to be modified with different springs from FSI to get enough retard to prevent pinging (knock) on hills. ***** When buying direct from Shawn at FSI – he will build the distributor with the proper springs & weights for the proper advance based on what you tell him about your engine (which head, rebuilt or not, etc.). Quote: ***** …zipper ha[s] no casting pin to lock the distributor to the head like a stock one. ***** True – but the side set screw can hold the distributor in place if tightened sufficiently. Quote: ***** [Most] Petronix/Ignitor failures were self-inflicted by improper grounding and leaving the ignition key on. ***** A comment I've heard related to this is that “you can’t carry an extra distributor should a ‘roadside repair seminar’ become necessary”. But, you can carry an extra ignitor plate that can be replaced with about the same degree of difficulty (don’t ask how I know…). And, if you have a timing degree indicator mounted to the front of the engine, you can still use a Nu-Rex timing wrench to set the timing. My FSI set up was designed (by/from Shawn based on my engine configuration) for 5* advance at idle – so I locate TDC with the timing pin, verify it against the indicator scale, then move the timing mark on the pully to 5* advance on the indicator scale, then use the Nu-rex wrench per the instructions. Since I start with the engine positioned at 5* advance, when I’m done with the Nu-rex wrench procedure, the distributor is set for 5* advance. Shawn makes himself available for assistance and diagnostics by phone, he’s very helpful. The only issues I’ve had were both self-inflicted - not initially tightening the set screw enough (allowed the distributor to move, taking the timing out of adjustment) and inadvertently shorting the ignitor while installing an updated coil (you all know that smell of the magic smoke as it escapes an electronic device). Have 5k+ miles on using the FSI Zipper and am very satisfied with its performance. All of the above is IMHO & FWIW.
__________________
- bogie '31 (Mostly) Roadster |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
|
![]()
I got 5,000 miles out of my Zipper before it failed,
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 200
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 311
|
![]()
Agreed...
__________________
- bogie '31 (Mostly) Roadster |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
|
![]()
The module died. I sent the Zipper back to FSI, they fixed it by replacing the module. I also bought an extra module as a spare. In the interim I installed a rebuilt original. It worked so well that I've never got around to switching it out again. It is still sitting on my shelf should the urge appear. FSI never indicated what the cause of failure was.
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,854
|
![]()
Modern ignition systems vary the timing according to sensors on the engine, such as a knock sensor. The advance curve is programmed into the computer based on the rpm, throttle setting, air temperature, air flow, etc.
In 1930 the computer was under the driver's hat.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 02-04-2025 at 06:15 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 4,529
|
![]()
I have a unit from a jap car on my 28
It takes a lot of machining , adjusting the curve , adv limit and vac advance to get right.But has been on my A for maybe 20K miles, Lawrie |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: German/French border
Posts: 104
|
![]()
I bought and installed the FSI "zipper". I drove it for about 150 miles before putting my "Henry"(Made in Berlin 1930 Tudor Delux three door) to bed for the winter. Starts were vastly improved, running at all RPMs was immensely smoother. The final test will be when I install the new 6.1:1 head when my barn gets warm enough to work without freezing my fingers. FSI claims that the "zipper" is preset for up to the 6.1:1 advance curve. We will see in March.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|