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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,842
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Freak,
Adjust the lengths of the rods first to get the 15 degrees from vertical in front. I forget what is is at the back but the principle is to get the best leverage. If the levers are not near vertical when applying hard braking then you are not getting the best mechanical advantage. After that, and assuming you have completed all the repairs as needed, try adjusting the brakes starting with the adjusters all the way out. If you cannot get them to adjust then add a pill, but do not change the length of the rods. If you are a mechanic then you should be able to get the brakes working well enough to lock up the wheels. As in any mechanical system just make sure everything works freely, that no parts are excessively worn, and that the shoes fit to the drums. And, as blockhead said, use cast iron drums.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#2 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pemberville, Ohio
Posts: 457
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That's part of what I'm having trouble with. With the rod disconnected, the lever (or arm) on the backing plate stands straight up with no force applied. Only when moving past straight up will the brakes start being applied. So to adjust the lever to 15 (without even dealing with the rod yet) is where I am confused. |
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Glide, Oregon
Posts: 1,440
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or replace the operating pins if they are worn excessive. Should be 7¼" long. I actually had a bent one that was causing me heartburn. Purdy Swoft had a good brake setup procedure that I always follow with great success.
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Ruth "Sometimes you really DO need to read the whole thread" Last edited by Ruth; 03-24-2021 at 11:26 AM. |
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