Quote:
Originally Posted by CC-Mo
A question for restoring these bits to the group.
I could write a book on polishing aluminum but am new to stainless.
My 90 y/o paint has enough character to go around but I'd like my stainless parts to look decent.
They have character that won't polish out fully with metal polish.
Question is, do the restorers use 4000 grit and then polish out?
I've repaired aluminum blemishes this way. 2k, 3k, and then follow up with 4K grit and then metal polish.
Thanks in advance for any pro-tips from those that have been down this road!
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Just as in aluminum, the key to a shine is how smooth the surface will be. The benefit of a mechanical buffer is the time saved however you will find that water-sanding with grits up to 5000 will produce a very respectable lustre without using a wheel. Rouge is a medium that removes material, however it typically induces heat that allows a strong potential for warpage. I have a 7½ hp Cincinnati buffer that is used to gloss up after each piece has been repaired and water sanded to 5000 grit.
I don't have any pictures of my headlight case or the headlight rim fixture, but below are pictures of the fixture we use to hold a radiator shell. Notice there is a flat surface tightly adjoining any area where the spinning pad could grab the work. Not only does this protect the operator and the work piece, but it also maintains the proper shape of the piece to keep from distorting it during the polishing process.
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