pressurized radiator work around

[Jacksonlll]

It won’t work with the Quail. You will never get it to seal and hold any pressure or vacuum. Use a tight 16 pound cap , or less, and it should work. All you really need is a full flowing core. No matter what you use, you won’t overheat. The new core will fix that.
We had a pressure system on a short tour and it blew and he lost his engine. Good luck

[bigd1101]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

It won’t work with the Quail. You will never get it to seal and hold any pressure or vacuum. Use a tight 16 pound cap , or less, and it should work. All you really need is a full flowing core. No matter what you use, you won’t overheat. The new core will fix that.
We had a pressure system on a short tour and it blew and he lost his engine. Good luck

I'm not using the quail cap for pressure, just for looks. The inlet is under the hood off to the side on a Brassworks closed system radiator. Thus my using a zero PSI cap, so basically its a closed system that is not pressurized and should function like a standard A cooling system with an overflow tank, but no spewing out the top of the top inlet cap if any overheating happens. I have an inlet temp gauge to monitor the engine temp.

[Synchro909]

On the car I am putting together now, I intend running a hose from the overflow to the bottom of a container with no lid mounted on the splash tray. With a standard, sealed cap, I expect most of the coolant caught in the container will be drawn back into the radiator as it cools neven though it will not be a pressurised system.

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by bigd1101

I'm not using the quail cap for pressure, just for looks. The inlet is under the hood off to the side on a Brassworks closed system radiator. Thus my using a zero PSI cap, so basically its a closed system that is not pressurized and should function like a standard A cooling system with an overflow tank, but no spewing out the top of the top inlet cap if any overheating happens. I have an inlet temp gauge to monitor the engine temp.

bigd1101,

The size of a zero pressure cap is the same as the 4# cap and they both fit the Brassworks radiators.

A few guys commenting do not understand what radiator you have, I do. I have two pressurized systems with the radiator you name.

I am currently running a sealed (pressurized) Brassworks in my Phaeton with a 4# cap hidden under the hood. I have a Motometer on the car...as you say about your Quail, the Motometer is just for looks.

The second system is a Brassworks sealed system radiator but due to a low spot on my block, I can not hold coolant in one corner if I used a 4# cap. My temporary solution was to use a zero pressure cap on the under-hood opening.

I have used the pressurized system in my Phaeton for over 90,000 miles with no issues. I have used the zero pressure system in my '31 S/W Town Sedan for about 7,000 miles.
I currently have the engine out of the '31 S/W with the zero pressure cap to flatten the top of the block. I do plan to use a 4# cap when I put it back in the car.

Your plan to use the zero pressure cap and a reclaim tank will work. Obviously the reclaim tank should be vented to atmosphere.
Good Day!

[bigd1101]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

bigd1101,

The size of a zero pressure cap is the same as the 4# cap and they both fit the Brassworks radiators.

A few guys commenting do not understand what radiator you have, I do. I have two pressurized systems with the radiator you name.

I am currently running a sealed (pressurized) Brassworks in my Phaeton with a 4# cap hidden under the hood. I have a Motometer on the car...as you say about your Quail, the Motometer is just for looks.

The second system is a Brassworks sealed system radiator but due to a low spot on my block, I can not hold coolant in one corner if I used a 4# cap. My temporary solution was to use a zero pressure cap on the under-hood opening.

I have used the pressurized system in my Phaeton for over 90,000 miles with no issues. I have used the zero pressure system in my '31 S/W Town Sedan for about 7,000 miles.
I currently have the engine out of the '31 S/W with the zero pressure cap to flatten the top of the block. I do plan to use a 4# cap when I put it back in the car.

Your plan to use the zero pressure cap and a reclaim tank will work. Obviously the reclaim tank should be vented to atmosphere.
Good Day!

Hi Dave.....very helpful post. Your car is a twin of mine in paint and body style. I'm going to try the pressurized cap first. I flushed the engine block quite a few times with a pressure washer after two Thermocare treatments, and a vinegar flush, top inlet and then the bottom inlet until no more "stuff" came out so I think it's pretty clean. The car was boiling over under load at 45 mph and the old radiator was clogged and worn so I went with a new Brassworks closed system. Set the timing too so I should be good to go in the Spring.





Don

[40 Deluxe]

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Originally Posted by bigd1101

Hi Dave.....very helpful post. Your car is a twin of mine in paint and body style. Set the timing too so I should be good to go in the Spring

Don

Actually, unless you're running a B distributor, you are setting the timing whenever you move the spark (timing) lever. Fiddling with the timing pin in the front cover and the points cam in the distributor only sets initial timing for starting purposes, and never changes as long as you keep the points gapped correctly (or the timing gears wear out). If you don't advance the timing enough with the lever as you drive, the engine will overheat.