How to do an engine assessment on my wifes 81A?

[41ford1]

Got it. No tricks. Basically all you need is another head gasket. Drain the coolant. Pull the old head and gasket and replace with new. Torque it down in a circular pattern from the center of the head to the outside ends. I usually do it in 3 stages, 40 lb-ft, 50 lb-ft and ending at 55-lb-ft. Fill the cooling system with straight water. Run a couple of temp cycles checking for leaks and retourque. Drain the cooling system and refill with proper coolant.

[david.skinner]

On the fuel line - Recommendations?

[david.skinner]

Thanks so much also for all the advice - wifey has decided cast iron so will start looking for the LH C7RA-A. Think I should also drop the oil pan as haven't been in there yet. Anything testable about the bottom end with just the pan off?
Regards

[41ford1]

If this pickup has a stock front suspension you are not gonna want to pull the pan. That requires jacking the engine in most cases so the pan clears the crankshaft. The front wishbone needs to be detached from the ball mount and blocked far enough so you can remove the pan. You can use plastigauge to measure the bearing clearances. The floating rod bearings need to be measured on both side of the inserts. If this engine runs quiet I'd be inclined to not open it up. Put new oil in it and run it a couple of hundred mile and change it again. That should clean it out.
On the fuel line I guess it depends on what the complete system is. Can you describe it from front to back. If it utilizes an electric pump are there any safety devices in place?
Just something to consider. Most of all have fun with it.

[ford38v8]

I agree on the oil pan. No need to open it up, just a can of worms you'll regret. Good multi-grade detergent oil changed regularly is all you need do.

The fuel line should not be steel or copper. There is an excellent Cupro line available that will last you forever without trouble. To go original, which is good also, get it from C&G or Roy Nacewicz, or several others. The flex line to get is fuel resistant, available from Shewman. The safety issue mentioned is the possibility of the electric pump running on after shutdown, or after a wreck. Various switching methods are available to prevent those events.

[david.skinner]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thank you both, advice taken on the pan. From the Carb working backwards. Holley 94 (sp?) copper fuel line - flexible fuel line - fuel pressure regulator mounted around the firewall, electric fuel pump mounted roughly in line with rear wheels, large fuel filter before this and then to tank - exterior of which appears newish or at least in good condition.

This pickup I beleive is based on a roaster body/panel so the front of the pickup is a car front.
Thanks

[41ford1]

I would run Cupro from the pump to the firewall. Secure it to the fire wall and at least every 18" or 45 cm back to the pump. Replace the copper from the carb to the flex hose at the fire wall with Cupro. This piece needs to be clamped at the back of the engine to minimize vibration flexing. The carb fitting will secure it there. Make the flexible sections with Fuel injection rated hose. Size that as required to match the Cupro line.
Replace any copper between the pump and tank withe Cupro. Add a switch on the dash for the pump if its not already there. If you are using the electric pump full time add an inertial safety cut off switch. Here is an example. http://www.smartracingproducts.com/other_products.html

[david.skinner]

advice very much appreciated. I'll pop a photo up when I'd done it.
Regards
David