A question on Les Andrews's ring specs

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

5/21/15 Update: With now 1875 miles on the new engine, it still locks up when it gets driven up to operating temps. I pulled the head and dropped the pan. There is no scoring or scuffing or discoloration on the cylinder walls. I conclude from this that my original ring gaps were too tight, and am going to regap them. There is minor carbon buildup on about 2/3s of each piston on the valve side, and a carbon ring at the top of each cylinder. I would like to hear from you experts what you think a better gap might be, and also your opinions on the carbon buildup.

Thank you.

What exactly do you mean by "it locks up"? Does it seize? Does the starter not turn it over? How about the hand crank (with OR without spark plugs)?

It sure doesn't sound like rings.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

What exactly do you mean by "it locks up"? Does it seize? Does the starter not turn it over? How about the hand crank (with OR without spark plugs)?

It sure doesn't sound like rings.

Marco, it seizes up, and cannot be turned with starter or hand cranking. After about a 15 minute cool down, it will turn over with the starter. It has been like this since I put it back together last year. I haven't tried it without plugs, but I've got it torn down now and can't do that. When cold it turns fine. Bill Barlow set the crank, and I installed the rods with .001-.0015 clearance. The piston specs were .003 and that is what my engine shop honed the cylinders to. Why not rings, and what else is a possible?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Marco, it seizes up, and cannot be turned with starter or hand cranking. After about a 15 minute cool down, it will turn over with the starter. It has been like this since I put it back together last year. I haven't tried it without plugs, but I've got it torn down now and can't do that. When cold it turns fine. Bill Barlow set the crank, and I installed the rods with .001-.0015 clearance. The piston specs were .003 and that is what my engine shop honed the cylinders to. Why not rings, and what else is a possible?

700,
Once bought a '26 Chev, that had been re-ringed, if run OVER 50 MPH, for only 1/2 mile, it would SEIZE & engine would STOP. I would coast in neutral, down to 10 MPH, kick it in gear to start it & it ran perfect if held to 50MPH!
I just drove it "easy" & in time, as the rings settled/wore in, and it became normal.
With any new engine/overhauled engine, just drive it EASY & with CARE, until everything settles in/laps in & you'll be set to go! AND, don't do some "WEIRD" procedure to "seat" in the rings, the rings WILL do what they are designed to DO!
As for ring gaps, do what the instructions say, for THAT PARTICULAR SET OF RINGS!----------Is READING a LOST ART?
Just like when your wallpaper hanging goes to CRAP, you probably DIDN'T read the instructions, for THAT PARTICULAR WALLPAPER!
Bill W.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

700,
Once bought a '26 Chev, that had been re-ringed, if run OVER 50 MPH, for only 1/2 mile, it would SEIZE & engine would STOP. I would coast in neutral, down to 10 MPH, kick it in gear to start it & it ran perfect if held to 50MPH!
I just drove it "easy" & in time, as the rings settled/wore in, and it became normal.
With any new engine/overhauled engine, just drive it EASY & with CARE, until everything settles in/laps in & you'll be set to go! AND, don't do some "WEIRD" procedure to "seat" in the rings, the rings WILL do what they are designed to DO!
As for ring gaps, do what the instructions say, for THAT PARTICULAR SET OF RINGS!----------Is READING a LOST ART?
Just like when your wallpaper hanging goes to CRAP, you probably DIDN'T read the instructions, for THAT PARTICULAR WALLPAPER!
Bill W.

Bill, I didn't get any instructions about gaps with those rings. Or if I did, I didn't see them, and I'm pretty careful about stuff like that. That's why I relied on Les's book, which I have come to believe was/is incorrect, at least in my case.