Still won't start

[pooch]

Originally Posted by edmondclinton

How would you cover up the points if the blade was not in between the points?

If the points have dirty contacts and give no spark on their own, using a screwdriver can give a spark if all else is good.

The screwdriver makes the contact . not the points.

The actual correct way is the have the points closed and flick them open with a non conductive object.

[edmondclinton]

Originally Posted by pooch

If the points have dirty contacts and give no spark on their own, using a screwdriver can give a spark if all else is good.

The screwdriver makes the contact . not the points.

The actual correct way is the have the points closed and flick them open with a non conductive object.

Yes, I can see that. I use a screwdriver but I watch how I use it. Works fine.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by pooch

If the points have dirty contacts and give no spark on their own, using a screwdriver can give a spark if all else is good.

The screwdriver makes the contact . not the points.

The actual correct way is the have the points closed and flick them open with a non conductive object.

That's ONLY true if you are trying to show the ignition system is OK.

By stopping the engine with the points open, then shorting with a screwdriver I am showing the points need to be cleaned. This is for a no spark or poor spark condition, which is why the check is taking place most times.

[Dbbc]

Thank you all for all the suggestions. Just to recap.
The battery seems to be fine.
The wiring seems to be correct.
The coil sends a spark to the distributor (will double check for the strength of the spark and color). However when the ignition is on and the point are close the negative side of the coil is hot. (should be the positive side) Not sure why.
The rotor turn and the gap to the contact is 0.25. However it wobble. It should rest on the cam right, but it seems that it is not resting flat. The cam screw slot has some burs maybe it does not allow the rotor to seat flat.
The point gap have been sanded lightly and adjusted to 0.18.
The distributor contact have been sanded lightly and have been check for continuity and they all checked out. Found a crack on the body near the external contact that goes to cylinder #4.
The inside of the distributor is a little rough and hold the body (metal part exposed once I removed both upper and lower plate) is a little rusty. Can I just sand it?
The condenser copper end spins (where the screws attach to it through the bottom plate)

So I am ordering a bunch of parts to replace the coil, the distributor cap, body, both plate, the points and the condenser.

While I am waiting for the parts. I have one more questions. What would be the symptom if the distributor condenser is not working properly? And still trying to figure out the coil issue.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Dbbc

Thank you all for all the suggestions. Just to recap.
The battery seems to be fine.
The wiring seems to be correct.
The coil sends a spark to the distributor (will double check for the strength of the spark and color). However when the ignition is on and the point are close the negative side of the coil is hot. (should be the positive side) Not sure why.
The rotor turn and the gap to the contact is 0.25. However it wobble. It should rest on the cam right, but it seems that it is not resting flat. The cam screw slot has some burs maybe it does not allow the rotor to seat flat.
The point gap have been sanded lightly and adjusted to 0.18.
The distributor contact have been sanded lightly and have been check for continuity and they all checked out. Found a crack on the body near the external contact that goes to cylinder #4.
The inside of the distributor is a little rough and hold the body (metal part exposed once I removed both upper and lower plate) is a little rusty. Can I just sand it?
The condenser copper end spins (where the screws attach to it through the bottom plate)

So I am ordering a bunch of parts to replace the coil, the distributor cap, body, both plate, the points and the condenser.

While I am waiting for the parts. I have one more questions. What would be the symptom if the distributor condenser is not working properly? And still trying to figure out the coil issue.

If your system is positive ground then the negative (-) side of the
coil should be hot all the time as the black wire comes from the battery.

Bob

[edmondclinton]

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Originally Posted by Dbbc

While I am waiting for the parts. I have one more questions. What would be the symptom if the distributor condenser is not working properly? And still trying to figure out the coil issue.

When the condenser is bad the engine will miss out, buck and backfire. In other words as has already been said, weak or poor or no spark.

Two tests can be made on the condenser:

Using a piece of wire touching the center or output of the condenser, charge up the condenser by touching the condenser's case to the positive side of the battery and the piece of wire to the negative battery terminal. Allow the condenser to charge for a few seconds, then quickly disconnect and lightly touch the wire to the condenser case. If you observe a spark as the wire gets right near the case, you may assume that the condenser is OK.

You can also check a condenser with a condenser tester to measure capacity. Capacitance should be 0.3 microfarads. Also, using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between the wire or center and the case which should not be less than say 5 million ohms