The Ford Barn

BIG KEV · 08-10-2025, 05:18 PM

Here I am, I have been fighting a weird issue with my 34. It's a hopped up 59ab, rebuilt with 2k miles on it now roughly.

So I have had a weird issue, sitting and idling after its warmed up, it will bobble a bit, and start to feel off. Power is still great, no issues driving it but idle is the issue. Been through the carbs 10 times, I have swapped out to a new carb for testing, went down to 1 carb and still did the junk to me. Thought it was vapor lock, added a inline electric fuel pump and no resolve. I also changed from a 3 ohm internally regulated coil to a external regulated coil with a ballast resistor. New points replaced the stock 1942 set that was in there, I have had 10 condensers installed, cap, rotor, etc. I am running a nice set of Noble Speed solid core plug wires and NGK plugs

NGK B8HS10
Standard Coil UC12T
Standard Ballast resistor RU-13T

This made the issue less frequent, but engine temps over 180 she will do it. I can make her do it pretty easy now. Once she dies, sometimes she will restart sometimes not. A few days back I was stress testing her and she did it. Dies out and wouldn't restart. Tested spark, it was still blue but jumps about 1/8" instead of over a 1/4" It was doing. So I Jumped the ballast resistor, fired up instantly. This shows some of the issue, I know I could put the starter button with a diode and get 12v to the load side of the ballast resistor to fix this issue, but I am after the main issue plaguing me here of dying out.... The internal resisted coil made this restart issue, having to wait 2 to 5 min and it would restart. Coil has always gotten warm, even with the ballast resistor now it gets warm but not as hot as the internal resistor one did.

With this said, I've seen alot of people aiming for 3 ohms combined to keep the amperage down. Everyone says under 3.5 amps is key.

12.5volts, 3 ohms = 4.16 amps on paper, tested in real life = 4.25 amps

14.5 volts running at 3 ohms would be 4.83 amps.

Ohms law doesn't quite figure in thermal loss and resistance changes but still I am well into the 4 amp area.

I could go to a 2ohm coil with a 2 ohm ballast and cut my amperage down close to acceptable low 3 range to mid 3.

I know there are some stellar guys here who have fought the fight longer than I have. Just looking to get this car dependable again. It's done it in the cold weather but mostly does it in the 85 degree and above here.

Thanks in advance.

08-10-2025, 05:18 PM	#1
BIG KEV Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: Spring Tx Posts: 28	Ignition Issues, Crab distributor Here I am, I have been fighting a weird issue with my 34. It's a hopped up 59ab, rebuilt with 2k miles on it now roughly. So I have had a weird issue, sitting and idling after its warmed up, it will bobble a bit, and start to feel off. Power is still great, no issues driving it but idle is the issue. Been through the carbs 10 times, I have swapped out to a new carb for testing, went down to 1 carb and still did the junk to me. Thought it was vapor lock, added a inline electric fuel pump and no resolve. I also changed from a 3 ohm internally regulated coil to a external regulated coil with a ballast resistor. New points replaced the stock 1942 set that was in there, I have had 10 condensers installed, cap, rotor, etc. I am running a nice set of Noble Speed solid core plug wires and NGK plugs NGK B8HS10 Standard Coil UC12T Standard Ballast resistor RU-13T This made the issue less frequent, but engine temps over 180 she will do it. I can make her do it pretty easy now. Once she dies, sometimes she will restart sometimes not. A few days back I was stress testing her and she did it. Dies out and wouldn't restart. Tested spark, it was still blue but jumps about 1/8" instead of over a 1/4" It was doing. So I Jumped the ballast resistor, fired up instantly. This shows some of the issue, I know I could put the starter button with a diode and get 12v to the load side of the ballast resistor to fix this issue, but I am after the main issue plaguing me here of dying out.... The internal resisted coil made this restart issue, having to wait 2 to 5 min and it would restart. Coil has always gotten warm, even with the ballast resistor now it gets warm but not as hot as the internal resistor one did. With this said, I've seen alot of people aiming for 3 ohms combined to keep the amperage down. Everyone says under 3.5 amps is key. 12.5volts, 3 ohms = 4.16 amps on paper, tested in real life = 4.25 amps 14.5 volts running at 3 ohms would be 4.83 amps. Ohms law doesn't quite figure in thermal loss and resistance changes but still I am well into the 4 amp area. I could go to a 2ohm coil with a 2 ohm ballast and cut my amperage down close to acceptable low 3 range to mid 3. I know there are some stellar guys here who have fought the fight longer than I have. Just looking to get this car dependable again. It's done it in the cold weather but mostly does it in the 85 degree and above here. Thanks in advance.