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#13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
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![]() Quote:
joints. When welding with MIG you are always applying metal. On joints that but up to each other depending on the thickness of the metal leave a slight gap. .023 wire will make any welds required on autos. You can cut the speed of the wire down real slow which cuts the amps or speed it way up and get close to 200 amps. The voltage has to be adjusted to properly burn the wire at the tip. You can speed smaller wire to get more heat or amps but you can not cut large wire for real low heat. I got into MIG welding back in the late 40's when MIG welders were giant machines made by Arco and GE. They were used on welding heavy metals. I made the first body shop machines which we called Fender Menders. At that time C25 {75% argon /25% CO2} was not available. We used a bottle of argon and a bottle of CO2 and mixed them with a "Y" hose. The gas would build up pressure when you were not welding and come out in a big gush when you pulled the trigger and disrupt the arc for a few seconds at start. I put a small length of .035 contact tip in the gas hose where it entered the handle of the gun. This cut the gas surge and also let a little gas bleed out on the small ball of wire on the end of the gun. This cooled the wire in gas making it easy to start the arc the next time. My company made MIG welders for Air Products, Hobart, Forney and Snap On tool company for years. I sold the company over 40 years ago and they still make MIG welders for Snap On. In fact I think they are almost 100% Snap On. For light MIG welding you need a lighter shaded glass than on larger diameter wire heavy metal welding. I am close to 90 years old, my eye sight is 20/20, hand is still steady and still do a little MIG and gas welding. Back when we first started there was only a couple makes of small MIG wires made. They were all hard and hard to grind but we got by. G.M.
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www.fordcollector.com Last edited by G.M.; 03-06-2020 at 05:15 PM. |
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