Low Compression

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Just to be clear here, you don't need the "dedicated" (1.000") pilot to do any valve/seat work, we do have the correct pilots here but don't use them at all.

You simply use an 8BA guide along with any "conventional" 11/32" pilot, this setup works fine. If necessary it's easy to make the (1-piece) OEM guide a snug fit in the casting!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I had also recommended (to Joe) that a slightly larger valve might really be helpful in getting into a better location on the seat, an area that may not have all that corrosion. Something along the lines of a Ford truck may "fit the bill"?? There is a one that measures 1.560" with the right length. If this works it wouldn't be necessary (maybe) to "sink" the valve way deep!

The pilot is actually 1 1/32" and no you don't need them to get the job done I haven't used mine in years. I was only responding to the posts from some that haven't done this job but are offering answers that are not really correct One of the easiest ways for him is to stick the guide in there with green loctite and let it cure then handle it like a normal valve job.This requires a different install assy but is easily done.I glue serviceable bronze guides (just like yours machined for pos seals)in the block all the time but the engine is clean and on an engine stand and not in the car.Old Ron knurls the outside for a tighter fit and that works also.When glued in they will produce a acceptable runout that is almost impossible it achieve when the large pilot is used and a guide installed when seat work is done. Bin there tried that 30 years ago.In reality he should just patch it up and that will be it.All this work for 1 cylinder is a time eater only good if you consider the time is no value.

R