The Ford Barn

TheFargoA · 02-28-2016, 09:40 PM

Hello,
My A drives great for 10 miles or so, then it begins to run rough and slowly heats up. Always, I shut engine off, crank it to #1 TDC, then find that the timing cam has moved a degree or so clockwise (allowing .018 gap between points). This tells me that the timing cam is slowly I moving while I drive, thus advancing my timing. Here are some facts (which add to frustration): (1) ignition, switch, ammeter, circuit, reducer (12 volt conversation); coil (new); popout cable; distributor plates, consdenser, and points come out perfect during tests (engine off and running tests). Distributor cap is clear, and the visible sparks inside are blue and strong, and so is the spark to the plugs. Plugs remain clean. The visible sparks in the distributor appear strong, but they do run back and forth (right to left) along the contact points. Symptoms described are not associated with any type of driving (highway, in town, climbing hills, etc., are all great for 10 or so miles, then it creep warm and runs bad. When engine acts this way, I pull over, reset timing (bump camp up 1 degree), and in less than 3 minutes the engine is 100 percent well performing and running cool - for another 10 or so miles. I tried 40 pounds on the cam screw and with lock tight. I tried new cams and screws, and various types of lock washers too. Is anyone else seeing something that I may be missing? Thank you for your help!

02-28-2016, 09:40 PM	#1
TheFargoA Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Intermountain West Posts: 19	Timing Cam is Moving(?) Hello, My A drives great for 10 miles or so, then it begins to run rough and slowly heats up. Always, I shut engine off, crank it to #1 TDC, then find that the timing cam has moved a degree or so clockwise (allowing .018 gap between points). This tells me that the timing cam is slowly I moving while I drive, thus advancing my timing. Here are some facts (which add to frustration): (1) ignition, switch, ammeter, circuit, reducer (12 volt conversation); coil (new); popout cable; distributor plates, consdenser, and points come out perfect during tests (engine off and running tests). Distributor cap is clear, and the visible sparks inside are blue and strong, and so is the spark to the plugs. Plugs remain clean. The visible sparks in the distributor appear strong, but they do run back and forth (right to left) along the contact points. Symptoms described are not associated with any type of driving (highway, in town, climbing hills, etc., are all great for 10 or so miles, then it creep warm and runs bad. When engine acts this way, I pull over, reset timing (bump camp up 1 degree), and in less than 3 minutes the engine is 100 percent well performing and running cool - for another 10 or so miles. I tried 40 pounds on the cam screw and with lock tight. I tried new cams and screws, and various types of lock washers too. Is anyone else seeing something that I may be missing? Thank you for your help!