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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walnut Grove, Mississippi
Posts: 609
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ALL: I've mapped out a plan of attack on Clyde's "spinning motometer" and hope to tackle that project this weekend, thanks to you experts. HOWEVER, in the last several days, each time I turn the gas off/on (Clyde is a '29 CCPU) under the dash, the on/off switch gets harder and harder to turn.......is this a "take-apart and repair" or buy a new one issue?? What causes this?? Any suggestions concerning proper procedures/sequence of events??
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WARM REGARDS, MARCUS |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,457
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rust, can be fixed drain gas outside shop good ventilation, remove valve, take apart, and possibly lap the two parts if not grooved bad. toothpaste works, take your time. If not may have to buy new one, Berts,Brattons etc vendors have them.
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#3 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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many times they scar due to rust particles. i would buy a replacement shut off and also install the stand up pre filter screen in the valve
very important to hold back debris particles Last edited by Mitch//pa; 07-09-2014 at 06:09 AM. |
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#4 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
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I would remove the present one and clean it up and lube it. You know it fits properly and does not leak. Only put a new one on as a last resort. I try to keep my cars as original as possible whereas some others choose to take the easy way out.
Wayne |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: N Illinois
Posts: 447
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My original was leaking so I put in a replacement. Had no problems with the replacement but overhauled the original and put it back in. Worked fine.
But, I put the replacement back in (and put the original in a labeled bag in my 'keeper' bos) because I liked the longer handle on the new one. Mine is a driver that I try to keep stock.... With a few exceptions |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: California, Maryland
Posts: 1,421
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Livingston, Louisiana
Posts: 188
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Mine is beginning to become tight to turn also. What type of lube should be used? I have read post that MMO helps to prevent the valves from sticking. Will it help loosen the fuel cut-off valve?
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Ryan Scardina Livingston, Louisiana 1930 LSU Model A |
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: California, Maryland
Posts: 1,421
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There is no way to lube it ... On the inside its brass to brass. It needs to be taken apart cleaned, re-mated together, & with new packing..
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walnut Grove, Mississippi
Posts: 609
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Thank you all for your courteous replies - I am learning as I go! That said, I'll try taking it apart this weekend - what should I be looking for concerning "packing?" I think I will also just purchase a new one from Mike's Affordable (my go-to guy), and have it as a spare should I ever need it.
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WARM REGARDS, MARCUS |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I took my original valve apart, cleaned it, lapped the valve with toothpaste, and reassembled it with a bit of oil. I use good gas with 4 ounces of MMO with each tank full, and after 12 years or more, it still is drip free and turns easily.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bucks Co. Pa
Posts: 632
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The best thing in the world for a dirty tank is to clean it! Take the valve out and all the gas is out to. Then throw a gallon of gas in there to flush it. After you're satisfied that the tank is clean, rebuild the valve.
Terry |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 301
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I had the same thing when restoring my coupe. It was really tight, so ordered a new one from Snyders. What an amazing difference. The internal filter screen is a must.
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