1936 Big Truck Horn Rod

[bbook]

In the course of replacing the steering wheel, I pulled the horn rod out the back window, without putting any bend on it that I could detect. When I got the rod out, it definitely had a bow to it, most of which I was able to remove.

After installing the new (rebuilt) steering wheel, and putting the rod back in with a new brass bushing at the top, and utilizing an end plate at the steering gear with a brass tube to help with fluid retention, I put on a new spider, spring and clip. The top of the horn rod sits against the steering wheel and turns with the wheel. This is the way it was before I took things apart, but I didn't pay much attention, because from the time I got the truck, it didn't have a spider or spring on it and the horn rod was just laying in there.

Am I missing a part that holds the horn button/light switch lever up away from the steering wheel? Or, is my problem that there is just enough bend in the rod that it is making contact with the steering shaft? As I look at pictures I've found, it looks like most horn rod/light switch handles sit down close to the steering wheel, but it seems to me there has to be some space to insure they can turn independently. What am I not understanding here?

[swedishsteel]

I had a similar problem with my '36 coupe. The horn button would turn with the steering wheel. I pulled the rod, greased it, even ground a little off the steering wheel to no avail. I finally conclude the spring on the bottom end was too strong (it was a repop), so I cut a coil off the spring so it wouldn't pull so hard on the rod--problem solved. Rod

[bbook]

The spring change is worth a try, as mine is repop as well. It definitely pulls down hard. I'll give it a try.

[jfcrash]

‘bbook…

I too had the same issue when putting my ‘35 back together, also using a new spring, spider, clip and brass bushing.

I slid a couple of thin nylon washers on the horn rod first to give the horn button a slight lift off the steering wheel, then the brass bushing etc. Doing this however prevented the tip of the horn rod to make electrical contact with the horn circuit. I then had to build up the ball at the end of the rod with solder to ‘lengthen’ the rod somewhat…and it now works fine.

Hope this helps

[bbook]

I considered the shimming approach you describe. It is helpful to know that it worked for you. So, if you put the washers on the rod first, and then the brass bushing, was the installed configuration such that bushing passed through the holes in the washers and the lip of the bushing sat on the washers?

I located a used spider spring to lessen the "pull" as suggested by Swedishsteel, but I would like to try your approach as well.

[Snouts out]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

What's FoMoCo procedure on this subject? I've looked & can't find anything ...!

[jfcrash]

bbook,

I beleive the hole in the nylon washers was a snug fit on the horn rod and the collar of the brass sleeve sat under the washers...not thru them.

[bbook]

I would love to see a Ford procedure on the horn rod for a truck, given the maneuvers necessary just to get one out, but I'm not aware of anything. I did a "dry run" (without installing the spider and clip) with metal washers to shim the rod away from the wheel and I was able for the first time to turn the wheel without it turning the horn rod/light switch. It also looks as though the horn wire still protrudes enough to make contact. I'm going to find nylon washers before doing the complete install. I'll keep you posted.