cooling system

[V4F]

buy les Andrews "red" book ...........

[Purdy Swoft]

I would check points gap. If the points have closed up a bit from wear, it will have a retarding effect on the timing. The specs for the points gap are anywhere from .018 to .022. I prefer mine set at .022 , this advances the timing to the maximum before you get starter kick back. This wider gap gives crisp throttle response and more time before the points will need readjustment. you can still use the hand crank without danger oif kickback with this setting if the trailing edge of the rotor tip is set EXACTLY like Tom W has it pictured with NO clockwise backlash. Backlash is the rotational movement at the distributor shaft, one half inch is not uncommon. The distributor turns counter clockwise when the engine is running but rides on the clockwise side of the backlash. When the dist. cam is tightened, all of the backlash must be in the counter clockwise direction or the timing will be off. When the cam screw is tightened it tends to add clockwise backlash and may take several tries before you can get it just right. The only way to find the timing mark on the cam gear or high cam for setting the points is to first remove all of the spark plugs. When the engine nears top dead center, the compression increases and will cause you to pass the mark if the plugs are not removed.

[30 A Ripper]

Thinking rich running since sooty #1 plug. Tomorrow's plan is adjust carb idle & air mixture and GAV.

Kind of curious why no one chimed in on my leaking exhaust manifold.
Am I wasting effort trying things before replacing the exh manifold gasket?

Guess I could pull another plug and see if sooty also since they were cleaned and gapped just maybe 20 minutes run time a couple of weeks ago...

[1931 flamingo]

Replace the gaskets first. Fast, quick easy if you use the late 31 two piece copper ones. This may solve your sooty plug problem, idle, etc. also. JMO
Paul in CT