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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Commerce Twp, Mi
Posts: 143
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I got all the glass out of the car and off to the glass shop for new glass. I brought the windshield frame home so I could clean & repaint it while the glass is being made. ServPro came & picked up the seats & all the interior panels to ozone & clean them. He is pretty sure the ozone will get the smoke smell out but doesn't know how well the cleaning will work. I will be happy if he gets them clean enough so you don't get dirty when you sit in them. Don't want to spen the money on new covers now with so many other things that need done.
I started removing the wood from the roof today. Got the wire screen out & the cross wood pieces out. I think I can save the wood with the sanding and a coating of Kilzs. Not sure how to get the wood perimeter out. I got most of the carriage bolts out but still have some in the corners. I am thinking it will lift out whit all the bolts removed. Can't find anything on removing the wood on a S/W fordor in any of the books I have. I found a nice article on replacing the top in "How to restore your model A" Vol III. Still have lots of stainless to clean & the horn to get working. I will add some pictures tomorrow. I left my camera in the back garage Gene |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pace, FL near Pensacola
Posts: 374
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It's been a long time since I replaced my top wood but I think it should all come out once the carriage bolts are removed. I don't remember anything else holding it in.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Commerce Twp, Mi
Posts: 143
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I got all the roof wood out except for over the windshield. There is a lot of melted stuff there & had to know what is what. Going to look thru my books & magazines to see what all is on the front. The top windshield hinge is stuck to something but dont want to pry on it too hard because I don't know what all the parts are.
Cross members look like I can save them but the 2 side pieces & the back piece will need to be replaced |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,987
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Man, what a bummer! Looks like your making good progress, keep us posted and pics coming...
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,262
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This project seems to be good reason to carry full insurance on the cars you own. In the event of damage, merely ship the car to a restoration shop and be done with it....
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Commerce Twp, Mi
Posts: 143
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I have done a few vintage Harleys & I like the price of model A parts a lot better. I can now go to the Model A swap meets & the motorcycle swap meets. I am working on a 1954 KHK Harley Flathead street tracker now, but have to put it on hold to work on the car. I can ride on the Harley but my wife & I can ride in the Model A. Guess which one is 1st on the to do list. |
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#7 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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Does your garage stink from the smell of the car being burnt ?
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Commerce Twp, Mi
Posts: 143
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Yes
You can smell the burnt odor as soon as you walk in. After I am in there a few minutes I don't notice it. I still have a lot of smoke film in the stainless parts & on the body. Too cold to open the door & air it out. The painter is coming over tomorrow so we can decide what needs to be done to the body. I am thinking I need to remove all the body parts & have them bead blasted to remove the old burnt paint. There are a few dents on the roof where something fell on it during the fire. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
Posts: 3,449
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Don't know if it is true or not but read somewere that burt bodywork needs special primer. Best to check into that. Bob
__________________
They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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