Starter Not Turning. Thoughts?

[Conrad Rossi]

Dear Barners,

I got ready for my engine compression, installed my new Optima 6V battery, new wires to the battery, starter, and starter solenoid -all purchased from Macs.

I was able to turn the engine to obtain readings for five cylinders, and the starter motor started to hesitate, and I also noticed the cycles going to the battery were hot, so I unplug them and let them cool off. After an hour, reconnected everything and was able to finish the remaining three cylinders. Next, I started a "wet" test and the starter hesitated again, and noticed that the button under the ignition coil was getting stuck. I wrestled with the button and was able to complete another four cylinders. I had to stop because the wires were hot again, so I disconnected everything and let cool down.

I pushed the car in third gear in case the starter was stuck, and connected everything back. I tried to turn the engine again, but this time it was dead, the cables were much hotter, now including the solenoid. Same routine...

I replaced the solenoid with a new one from Mac's. Still dead.

Note that the battery is fully charged, there is continuity between the batt and starter side of the coil (the big nuts). The only difference this time is that the wires and the solenoid are not hot.

Please help me troubleshoot the problem. I am ordering a new solenoid from Napa. Note that I have wired the car for 6v positive ground, and the only wiring connection is between the battery, the solenoid, and the starter motor. Also, how can rule out the starter motor? Thank you.

Best regards,

[flatjack9]

Sounds like you have a bad connectiion somewhere. Is the area that the starter bolts to clean? The starter mounting plate should not be painted where the starter bolts or the starter.

[Conrad Rossi]

I made sure that I had good ground, and cleaned the starter terminal and nuts. Also, ensured that all connections were tight as well. Thanks.

[33cabriolet]

If the starter is hot and the plugs are out it is pulling to much current,internal short or draging.If the cables are hot check size of cables.I would suspect starter because of slowing and not turning,you need to check current flow and voltage drop.John

[Conrad Rossi]

John,

Thanks. Note thay the only connections that I have is between the battery, starter solenoid, and the starter motor. All cables are reproductions from Mac's.

[flatjack9]

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Is your engine grounded to the chassis?

[Displayman]

I had the same problem. I had a bad cable.
The end of the cable was not connected well enough.
Good luck,
Bob

[George/Maine]

You could try a 12 volt battery dirrect to starter by passing selinode.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Disconnect the hot lead at the starter, use jumper cables to the starter case and the cable terminal. If the starter doesn't spin well then the starter is the problem. The brushes could be bad, the bearings could be bad allowing the armature to be grounding out against the field coils, or there could be an interior short in the starter.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Don't forget to check the cleanliness between the starter and the engine - the area where the starter motor touches the block - and be sure the block is well grounded. If the area where the starter touches is dirty or oily, you won't have a good ground. This was mentioned by flatjack9 and it's very important and not real obvious.

I put the battery grounding cable on a bell housing bolt to ensure a good ground for proper starter operation. FWIW

[Conrad Rossi]

All,

I double checked all the connections including ground, which is not rusty. Is there any way that I can by pass the solenoid to check the starter? Apologies if the question is dumb, but I know very little about this. Thank you.

[Barry-ct]

You can jump across the 2 larger terminals on the solenoid. Don't hold it there too long, as you can weld the jumper to the terminals if held long enough. I use a hand held starter button that will clip to the terminals and you push a button. It will supply power direct to starter. Block the wheels and make sure trans is in neutral. If the starter does not turn, it's more than likely the starter is toast. Make sure your repo cables are heavy enough for 6v. Alot of these are undersize and will heat up fast and lose current. The cables should be 00 guage. And clean grounds can't be stressed enough. Run a cable from the bell housing to the frame for extra measure.

[33cabriolet]

run jumper cables one battery negitive to lug on starter,the other to the positive battery post,take the loose end and ground the loose cable to a good ground AWAY FROM THE BATTERY it will spark the starter should turn freely,if the cables get hot or the starter doesn't turn there is a problem in the starter. John

[George/Maine]

You wired it up and has i ever started.
38 53 ST53 uses a insulated soinode( push botton 1 wire)that grds to start.
51-59 has grounded soinode so you need neg hot to selinode to work. Thats a key switch or push botton with 2 wire.
When doing cpmpression test
disconnect coil,remove all plugs.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

I just had a problem where the freshly rebuilt starter would not turn. The problem was in the cable end. It looked OK from the outside but the contact in the inside of the cable end was bad. That is why you should put jumpers directly to the starter body and starter lug. If the starter turns, then you work backward along the circuit until you find the problem.

[41ford1]

Originally Posted by hingebird

All,

I double checked all the connections including ground, which is not rusty. Is there any way that I can by pass the solenoid to check the starter? Apologies if the question is dumb, but I know very little about this. Thank you.

From Gorges post #8 "You could try a 12 volt battery dirrect to starter by passing selinode."

Disconnect your 6 volt battery from the system. Do what George is saying with a set of jumper cables. The starter sould spin the engine fast. If it doesn't turn or turns slow you have a starter motor problem.

[Conrad Rossi]

All,

Thank you for your advise. Based on your input and that the starter worked enough to run a compression check, and already installed a new starter solenoid, it looks like the starter is the culprit.

I will be checking the starter motor by wiring directly to the battery and let you know the results.

Best regards,

[George/Maine]

If it works with 12 volt your new supper dupper battery is no good.

[bmwillia]

I had a similar issue. Turned out to be a bad battery even though it was only a couple of weeks old.

[Chris Nelson]

Clean grounds are very important as are the wire diameters of the battery cables. I went a step further on both of my builds and used electrical contact grease on every electrical connection, including the surface of the starter to motor mounting. Check all battery terminal ends for loose or poorly made connections. As was stated, the battery wires should be 00 size. Some people have used welder lead wire, which is very heavy. Make sure the ground wire (+) connects to the motor as close to the starter as is possible. It does sound like the starter may be the problem, but be sure to check every connection you have. Good Luck.