New to the Vintage car world

[mjm1972]

Hello All,



I am new here and new to the Vintage car world. I bought a 1930 Model A last year and was hoping to get information from any of you. As it sits now its a driver, as im told. I want to make it better. Restore it, but have it still be a driver.

One issue I’m having is the battery dies all the time, I had it out for the winter and put it back in the other day and it keeps dieing and its a new one too it also was doing this last summer. I also am confused on what is the Negative side and what is the Positive side in the car. There is a flat copper wire that is bolted to the car that I am thinking it is the Pos side for the battery. Its location would be facing the rear of the car and the other terminal would be coming from the front of the car and that one I am thinking is the negative side.

I have been searching the web for answers and pictures with no luck. I am also hoping you all can guide me to a manual I could buy like for common fixes and what type of oil to use and what type of antifreeze and and who is the best to buy parts from and so on. I know this is a lot to ask for the first time being here but I want to learn this car and future cars.

Thank you

[Mike V. Florida]

Welcome to the hobby!!!

I'm going to assume your A is stock, that is generator with cutout.

The two most common causes for dead batterys are a stuck stop light switch and a stuck cutout.

So first put in the battery and look at your tail light. If it's on that's your problem bad tail light switch.

If that's not it then we need to check the cutout, the can that sits on the generator, no it's not a regulator. It "cuts out" the battery volgate from going into the generator and turning it into a motor. So to check that out we remove the fan belt and see if the generator is turning like a motor.

Let's just start there for now and you can tell us what you found.

Books, start out with Les Andrews red book for the mechanical stuff. There are several other books that are good to have but again this is the starting point. Maybe add in the service bulletins in the large size not the small book, (too hard to read).

For restoring get the restorationa nd judging standards from one of the national clubs. I know you said you want to keep it as a driver. You will find that it is a case of 'it's just as easy to do it right as it is to do it at all"

Ok so far?

Go to the two national club sites and find a local club.

http://www.mafca.com/chapters_list.html
http://modelaford.org/pdf/RegionList.pdf

Use slippery oil any brand you want in 30 weight. Can be single weight or multi weight anything specific is just personal choice. Some use synthenic some use the stuff on sale at wallmart all will work just fine.

Antifreeze is about the same, some seem to have problems with foaming some don't. some don't even use antifreeze, just water and rust preventative.

Vendors, they are all good. Pick one close to you to save on shipping. Go to the top of this forum and see the post "Model A/AA Ford Websites...Can YOU add to the list?" All the good ones are there.

The most important thing is you have found this site.

[mjm1972]

Wow, thanks for the fast replay did not think anyone was up as its 1220 am here. As soon as I post this Im going to push it into the Garage and look at it.


I am told that newer oils and new type antifreeze will mess things up, and when you say slippery oil do you mean just any old 30 weight oil? Not sure the term of Slippery unless you just call oil that .. lol … sorry as I said I am new... I also want to keep the car as original as possible and try and repair the older parts but make them new .. I don’t want a replica car in the End. Little about me..


Little bit about me, as I said I am new to the Vintage car world, I love my car and want to fix it up. I live here in Fairbanks Alaska and in the Military up here, but getting out soon. I bought my 1930 Model A in a Ford dealership up here last summer while checking on a part for my wife’s car... you should have heard that conversation when I told her what I was going to buy... .

My short term goal is just to get it running for this summer so I don’t have to push start it. My long term goal for this car is to start buying repair kits and OEM type items to start restoring it like new wires and glass and seals and interior and things of that nature, Items that I cant keep original, then when I got all I need I want to tear it down one summer and fix it all in one shot .. I don’t want to add new items to it year after year...



I will post pictures when I figure it out..

[Mike V. Florida]

Yes slippery oil is just a joke. One of the topics that always get the largest amount of response is "what kind of oil do I have to use?" There is no absolute answer except that it be automotive (vehicle) oil not mineral or "3in1" type.

As for pictures;
If they are on your computer,tTry clicking "go advanced" under the "Quick reply" that should take you to "Additional Options" go to "manage attachments" click that it will take you to "Browse" the choose your pics, hit download then you can preview them, just make sure they are under 800 pixels of they won't load.

Oh, I work the night shift so during breaks and "lunch" I come here.

[Aerocraft]

Welcome aboard and thanks for your military service!

In addition to Mike's good suggestions, I would recommend that you try using the search function to help you come up with the answers you need. It's fun to look through the strings and that will help you come up with more knowledge when most of us may be asleep.

Looking forward to seeing your posts and pictures........... Gar Williams

[Ray in La Mesa]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

You might also check to see if the brake light switch is working. With stock taillights, the upper bulb is the brake light and lower is the taillight. If the brake light stays on , pull up on the brake pedal, it should go out. If it does that, you might go through the brakes and make sure there is no slop and ALL the return springs are working- both on each shoe and on each brake rod.

[Chris in WNC]

welcome, MJM to one of the strongest and most harmless addictions that humans are prey to....

Oil? shop price. cheaper the better. I try to use straight 30 but fall back on 10w-30 if that's all that's available.

tearing the car down? DON'T DO IT! it will take ten times longer to finish than you think at the beginning. meanwhile you have no car to drive and your enthusiuasm may wane.
do a "rolling restoration"- pick what needs it the worst, do that area or component, then enjoy driving it for a while. that's the method I have used since 1986 and am seldom without a Model A to drive for very long.

battery discharging? if you have an original style popout ignition switch, remove it from the system (it's easy to make a bypass wire including a toggle switch) and see if the discharging stops.

[newshirt]

MJM,
I was in your shoes two years ago. What a great hobby you've stumbled upon!

I got much of my education reading the free vendor catalogs. I started with Bert's because that's where I bought the car. I read every word of their catalog five times! And then I read Snyder's and Bratton's. Just knowing every part that goes on a Model A is a good foundation. It leads to inquiry and investigation.

Next, read Ford Barn every day. Even read the threads that don't apply to you. You'll be surprised at how the information applies months or years later.

I agree with Chris on the "rolling restoration." I've replaced dozens of big and small things over the past two years, and the car is looking good!

Good luck!!!

[1930artdeco]

Hi MJM and welcome to the hobby,

Just remember that the Model A is a POSITIVE ground, hence the (+) side of the battery is towards the back and attached to the frame by the copper strap. I am rebuilding my gen. right now and just bought a voltage regulator for the new one as the cutout that is one there now is faulty. I just made it a habit to disconnect the battery at the end of the day.

Mike

[Huckster Dave]

contact Willy at the fountain head auto museum.

[CarlG]

Welcome -- check your PM messages.

[Fred K-OR]

welcome MJM.

Could be that your "new" battery is no good. A fellow here on the barn was having a similar problem, took his "New" battery back to where he purchased it, they tested it and it was no good. I have also had this happen with 6 volt batteries on my Ford 8N tractor. Anyway, you may want to start with this rather than doing a bunch of other stuff.

[mjm1972]

Thanks all of you for your post..


I am learning that this hobby is one I wished I picked up long ago as you meet some really good heart-ed people and It draws out the best in everyone as I noticed on the streets when driving my old one. I could be driving a brand new 2012 corvette one day and my 1930 Model A the next and lose count on how many people stopped me and talked to me and waved and so on... well im preaching to the quire.. you all know. I do want to get more involved with it and buy a few more. I want a 1930 Tudor and a 1934 Ford Model 730 Deluxe Sedan.. one day ..


OK back on the subject and a few things I noticed on my battery issue this may be long..


1. On the generator I,ve heard people talk about this cut out thing on the generator, is it an actual cut out of the generator? last night I took off that round thing that is on the generator and it had not cut out under it, all it had was the two holes for the screw holding it on.

2. Today I drove around a bit and parked it back in the garage, I shut everything off and when I went back into the garage I noticed a red light in the rear was on.. everything I know to shut this car was done. so I played around a bit and for some reason I pulled up on the break and it went off. So later when looking at the responses on here I noticed someone had mentioned this issue. So is this a spring sticking thing or an oil thing ?


3. I noticed something on my amperes gauge maybe someone can shed light on.. so from left to right it reads 30 – 15 – 0 – 15 – 30 discharge to the left and charge to the right OK so at idol with no lights on it sits two tics to the left of the 0 being on the discharge side, and when I turn on the lights it jumps to the 15 mark, also on the discharge side. So my questions are where should it be sitting at when idol with no light and with lights .. I would assume it at one time should be sitting to the right side, the charge side ? I hope I have not lost anyone.

4. Also seen that someone knows about Willie at Fountain Head Auto Museum here in
Fairbanks AK. Would love to pick this guys head and would love to work with that guy to learn. That Museum he runs is out of this world. Have you been to Fairbanks Huckster Dave?

5. I am a member of an auto club the “Vernon L Nash Antique Auto Club of America” and have met a good bunch of people there too just have not talked or seen them since last summer and Im new,so got the new guy syndrome need to get more involved.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by mjm1972

Thanks all of you for your post..


I am learning that this hobby is one I wished I picked up long ago as you meet some really good heart-ed people and It draws out the best in everyone as I noticed on the streets when driving my old one. I could be driving a brand new 2012 corvette one day and my 1930 Model A the next and lose count on how many people stopped me and talked to me and waved and so on... well im preaching to the quire.. you all know. I do want to get more involved with it and buy a few more. I want a 1930 Tudor and a 1934 Ford Model 730 Deluxe Sedan.. one day ..


OK back on the subject and a few things I noticed on my battery issue this may be long..


1. On the generator I,ve heard people talk about this cut out thing on the generator, is it an actual cut out of the generator? last night I took off that round thing that is on the generator and it had not cut out under it, all it had was the two holes for the screw holding it on.

That can in the cut out, it is used to "cut out" the voltage going back to the battery.

2. Today I drove around a bit and parked it back in the garage, I shut everything off and when I went back into the garage I noticed a red light in the rear was on.. everything I know to shut this car was done. so I played around a bit and for some reason I pulled up on the break and it went off. So later when looking at the responses on here I noticed someone had mentioned this issue. So is this a spring sticking thing or an oil thing ?

Has nothing to do with the oil. There is a spring sold by the vendors that will assist the pedal in returning all the way up keeping the light off.

3. I noticed something on my amperes gauge maybe someone can shed light on.. so from left to right it reads 30 – 15 – 0 – 15 – 30 discharge to the left and charge to the right OK so at idol with no lights on it sits two tics to the left of the 0 being on the discharge side, and when I turn on the lights it jumps to the 15 mark, also on the discharge side. So my questions are where should it be sitting at when idol with no light and with lights .. I would assume it at one time should be sitting to the right side, the charge side ? I hope I have not lost anyone.

At idle it should be at 0 or a little on the on the charge side. Running it should be a little more maybe 5-8.


4. Also seen that someone knows about Willie at Fountain Head Auto Museum here in
Fairbanks AK. Would love to pick this guys head and would love to work with that guy to learn. That Museum he runs is out of this world. Have you been to Fairbanks Huckster Dave?

5. I am a member of an auto club the “Vernon L Nash Antique Auto Club of America” and have met a good bunch of people there too just have not talked or seen them since last summer and Im new,so got the new guy syndrome need to get more involved.

Keep the questions coming.

[Terry, NJ]

That "flat copper wire" is actually known at as a "Ground Strap" and in 6V
Cars of the 1927-1955 era, this connects to the Positive + side of the battery. Stuck brake light switches are often the cause of battery drain. The mod A generators do not produce like a modern generator and they take longer to charge. Furthermore, it's a generator, not an alternator! It does not charge at idle. Good luck!
Terry

Originally Posted by mjm1972

Hello All,



I am new here and new to the Vintage car world. I bought a 1930 Model A last year and was hoping to get information from any of you. As it sits now its a driver, as im told. I want to make it better. Restore it, but have it still be a driver.

One issue I’m having is the battery dies all the time, I had it out for the winter and put it back in the other day and it keeps dieing and its a new one too it also was doing this last summer. I also am confused on what is the Negative side and what is the Positive side in the car. There is a flat copper wire that is bolted to the car that I am thinking it is the Pos side for the battery. Its location would be facing the rear of the car and the other terminal would be coming from the front of the car and that one I am thinking is the negative side.

I have been searching the web for answers and pictures with no luck. I am also hoping you all can guide me to a manual I could buy like for common fixes and what type of oil to use and what type of antifreeze and and who is the best to buy parts from and so on. I know this is a lot to ask for the first time being here but I want to learn this car and future cars.

Thank you

[theHIGHLANDER]

Welcome, and I too will thank you for your service.

You picked the best vintage car ever to get into the hobby/craft. You can damn near build a new one with what's available for the A. There's books galore and genertions of knowledge and anecdotes. it was once said, "Like the British Empire, the sun never sets on a Model T", but the same applies to the Model A. Enjoy the challenge and we are not responsible for your new affliction regarding old cars. Some say addiction, but you can cure an addiction. Afflictions are something you're born with

[30ccpickup]

Originally Posted by mjm1972

Thanks all of you for your post..


I am learning that this hobby is one I wished I picked up long ago as you meet some really good heart-ed people and It draws out the best in everyone as I noticed on the streets when driving my old one. I could be driving a brand new 2012 corvette one day and my 1930 Model A the next and lose count on how many people stopped me and talked to me and waved and so on... well im preaching to the quire.. you all know. I do want to get more involved with it and buy a few more. I want a 1930 Tudor and a 1934 Ford Model 730 Deluxe Sedan.. one day ..


OK back on the subject and a few things I noticed on my battery issue this may be long..


1. On the generator I,ve heard people talk about this cut out thing on the generator, is it an actual cut out of the generator? last night I took off that round thing that is on the generator and it had not cut out under it, all it had was the two holes for the screw holding it on.

2. Today I drove around a bit and parked it back in the garage, I shut everything off and when I went back into the garage I noticed a red light in the rear was on.. everything I know to shut this car was done. so I played around a bit and for some reason I pulled up on the break and it went off. So later when looking at the responses on here I noticed someone had mentioned this issue. So is this a spring sticking thing or an oil thing ?


3. I noticed something on my amperes gauge maybe someone can shed light on.. so from left to right it reads 30 – 15 – 0 – 15 – 30 discharge to the left and charge to the right OK so at idol with no lights on it sits two tics to the left of the 0 being on the discharge side, and when I turn on the lights it jumps to the 15 mark, also on the discharge side. So my questions are where should it be sitting at when idol with no light and with lights .. I would assume it at one time should be sitting to the right side, the charge side ? I hope I have not lost anyone.

4. Also seen that someone knows about Willie at Fountain Head Auto Museum here in
Fairbanks AK. Would love to pick this guys head and would love to work with that guy to learn. That Museum he runs is out of this world. Have you been to Fairbanks Huckster Dave?

5. I am a member of an auto club the “Vernon L Nash Antique Auto Club of America” and have met a good bunch of people there too just have not talked or seen them since last summer and Im new,so got the new guy syndrome need to get more involved.

Here is some info I have been working on about the cutout. http://modelabasics.com/Cutout.htm Hope it helps.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have to disagree with Mike about the sticking brake light having "NOTHING TO DO WITH OIL". It has a lot to do with oil. Just oiling and greasing every moving part might fix the problem.

Also make sure the brackets for the brake rod springs aren't bent, and make sure the springs are in good condition. The front springs mount on the front side of the bracket, and the rear springs mount on the rear side of the bracket.

[darrylkmc]

mjm1972,

Welcome to Fairbanks and the Model A hobby. As you have probably seen, there are a lot of Antique cars and especially Model A Fords here in the Interior.

I have several Model A's, including a 1930 Standard Phaeton. What body style and color is your car?

My property is located in town and you can stop by most afternoons and weekends, check your email, I sent you a private message with my contact info and location.

Darryl in Fairbanks

[Chris in WNC]

brake light staying on:
agree with Tom W., adding a spring is just a temporary fix that will keep the car driveable until you have time to go through the braking system and adjust/repair/replace whatever needs help. when all is as it should be, the brake lights will go off correctly without the spring.

let not your heart be troubled- only a very small percentage of Model As have correctly functioning brakes at time of purchase.......