Ohio Body Shop Needed - To Return 1930 Roadster Body back to Stock

[28-31]

Hello All:

I'm attempting to take a 1930 Roadster body that was heavily hot rodded back in the 1950's and return it to stock configuration.

The subrails and all substructure were removed (car was channeled), the firewall was cut for a V8, door handles were shaved, and other similar modifications. The cowl, gas tank, doors, quarters, rumble lid, etc. are extremely solid, which is why I'm trying to bring this one back.

I've located all of the missing pieces, but body work is not my thing! I stick to the mechanical side of things whenever possible.

Anyone have a recommendation for a body shop (or maybe an experienced individual) in Northeast Ohio experienced in restoring Model A's? I want it to look stock, but I'm not necessarily going to insist that 100% of everything is riveted, although I would like a few of the visible brackets to be rivieted, if possible.

I have a couple decent body shops in mind, but they don't generally work on Model A's and I was hoping to find someone already familiar with body construction, since my Roadster is currently in pieces.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

I'll see if I can post some pictures of the progress once I can find someone to do the work.

Thanks,

-Jeff

[RHD]

I have an untouched body off the frame if you require any measurements or photos at any time.

[85930tudor]

You cannot go wrong if you contact Brent on here. He does remarkable work and very knowledgeable on A`s...Dave

[Kirby1374]

sell it to a rodder that would want those mods and find a stock body. 50's hotrods are only original once.......

[Roadster62]

That is good advice, but if you plan to rebuild what you have buy the subrails from Brookville and make them the foundation or the rebuild. A local "Body Shop" isn't the place to go with this type of a project IMO. A Model A Restoration shop is not a place to thake your wrecked 2012 Whatever. You will be paying for the learning curve, not the restoration.

Originally Posted by Kirby1374

sell it to a rodder that would want those mods and find a stock body. 50's hotrods are only original once.......

[28-31]

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Thanks for the quick replies!

RHD - Thanks, I may be in touch regarding measurements. I've compiled a decent set of reference photos, but I can always more.

Will do, regarding contacting Brent -- he's in Tennessee, I believe. A bit of a hike for me, but there's something to be said for experience.

"sell it to a rodder that would want those mods and find a stock body. 50's hotrods are only original once......." -- Definitely a valid opinion. I thought about that, and if the body were sectioned or other more severe (by my standards) body mods were done, that's what I'd do. I also wouldn't "un-do" the hot-rod modifications if the body were still intact and certainly not if it were still a complete car.

Also, agreed about not wanting to pay for anyone's learning curve. Any other restoration shop recommendations are welcome.

Thanks again to those who have replied so far.

[Kirby1374]

Thanks guys for taking me serious... it makes a guy feel wanted

[jkeesey]

I know of some guys one state over here in PA. They've been doing all the body recomendations from my shop. They have also owned 50s era rods themselves. Right now they are fixing one of my customers 31 cabriolet.

[Keith True]

Hiring it done I don't believe you are going to get that body in finish primer for the cost of a new repro body.All the things you need require time,time,time.All by the hour.Where you're not concerned about absolute originality I would be going for the new body.Where the thing was built in the 50's I bet you are going to find things like the door handle holes brazed shut,not welded.That makes for a lot of work,you can easily put a couple of days in each door.Even at a low rate of $50.per hour,it will get scarey fast.Plus,as pointed out,that body as an old rod will bring quite a charge of money.

[Mikeinnj]

Sell the rat rod body and buy a reproduction 30 roadster body here :


http://www.brookvilleroadster.com/mo...dster-body.htm

[jim1932]

I had Flop in Pittsburg do some splash panels for me. Honest and good work. There is a post on AACA of some A work he did http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1930-for...on-311247.html

[Chris in WNC]

Flop would be an excellent choice.
or-
in NE Ohio, contact John Holland in Valley City, he knows who's who up there.
(he's in the MARC/MAFCA rosters)

[28-31]

Jkeesey - The PA guys you mentioned, are they Pittsburgh area, by chance?

Keith True - Point taken. I'm going to explore what putting this thing back together will run, but you may very well be right. We'll see.

Jim1932 - I've seen a build thread involving Flop's work. I add him to the list for sure.

Chris in WNC - I'll see if I can track down JOhn Holland through the rosters. Thanks!

All of the others suggesting Brookville body, I hear ya. May end up going that route, but was hoping to put the original Henry back together. We'll see how it goes.

If anyone thinks of any additional individuals / restoration shops in my area/region, please let me know.

...and if I end up putting this thing back together, I'll post some progress pictures in a build thread of sorts. Will be making a decision relatively soon.

Thanks again to all,

-Jeff

[jkeesey]

The guys I mentioned are in Chester county, were just west of Philly.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

You may be able to buy a complete subfloor assy. from Brookville, wouldn't hurt to ask. They have to make them for their bodies anyway.

[28-31]

jkeesey - Thanks

Barry B./ Ma. -- Thanks, and yes -- they sell the individual pieces and they also sell it as a complete sub-assembly.

[milo]

If you end up with a bunch of new patch panels and new subrails etc can you still call it original Henry ???

[28-31]

Point taken -- firewall replacement is an original. Not sure what will be done with the doors. The replacement poeces will be the sub rails/floor assembly, some internal bracing, and the wood.

I won't represent it to be anything more than it is -- so I guess it will be up to each person to decide.

At least all exterior steel will be original -- no patches needed there.

Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by milo

If you end up with a bunch of new patch panels and new subrails etc can you still call it original Henry ???

Maybe those patch panels were made from remelted scrap Model A parts. Yep, all Ford steel

[Flop]

hey 28- 31 i would be interested in taking a look at your project if you are interested in my work .

have a solid 30 roadster in my shop now so it would be great for comparison.


give me a ring

tom

412 867 1659