Headlight rivet/bolts?

[JBR]

I have a 28 headlight shell on my pickup that has the bolts that are suppose to simulate the mounting rivets in it. The shell vibrates terribly when the motor is running. I tried to tighten the bolts and only succeeded in breaking one off.
I have an opportunity to by a 29 shell which is correct for the truck, but it doesn't have rivets either.
If there a trick to getting the bolts tight? Are the original style rivets available from somewhere?
As always thanks for your help,
Jon

[Mike V. Florida]

Are the threads cut all the way down to the head? I can't see how else the bolts would not be tight enough to hold the shell but be so tight as to snap. Try an additional washer under the nut to build up the thickness.

[Rowdy]

Maybe some shake proof washers would help along with some flatwashers. Rod

[JBR]

Shake proof washers? Never heard of such a thing Rowdy. Please explain, draw me a picture, and enlighten me. Forgive my ignorance.
Jon

[Rowdy]

The washer used on the powerhouse generator pulley is a shake proof washer. Most look like a 10 or 12 pointed star. Rod

[Rowdy]

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Here is a link to the internal style shake proof washers. I have seen them each way, some on the inside and some on the outside. The tangs are multiange to grip both surfaces when tightened. Rod

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID007196

[2manycars]

I always use locktite on the headlamp bolt/rivets. I also tighten them quite tight before the locktite tightens. The only problem I ever had was several years ago when Bratton's was selling them with nylock nuts. I called Walt and asked why he did that and was told it was so they would not loosen. I asked how in the world was I suppose to tighten them in the first place, as they have no slot. He said he had not thought of that, and went back to supplying nuts and star washers. Locktite is the key.

[Steve Wastler]

I would think a thin application of clear silicone under the head and left to cure, would assist in getting a good bite on the washer, along with the locktite should work really well. It's possible the fact they werent tight could have weakened the one that broke off.

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

You could be getting vibration from a break in the fender bracket near the frame.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Inside of trying to fix the result, why not try and fix the vibration? That might help your situation....

[JBR]

Rowdy,
I call that a star or friction washer. I wondered if that was what you meant. I just know it by a different name.

Bruce & Jim,
The one thing that seems to be vibrating is the headlight shell on it's mount. The right one doesn't do it. The left one does. If you put your hand on it, it stops. I will look closer tomorrow and see there is anything else loose such as the fender, the fender brace, headlight bar, etc. I will also try some washers on the bolts to see if that helps. I will let you know what I find.

By the way, the light was that way when I bought it. I'm trying to fix someone else's mistake.

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions,
Jon

[Steve Wastler]

Jon

Link to Rock Hill Will's web site for the rivets
http://www.mantiquesresto.com/Restor...o/Rmisc03.html

[JBR]

Steve, Thanks for the web site. That is quite interesting. I added it to my favorites.

I looked under the fender today and did not see in cracks in the fender brace. How ever, the nuts that hold the headlight bar and fender to the fender brace are not tight. Tightening them up will help, I sure. Funny I didn't notice that when I was doing the front brakes and Hubs.

I didn't get around to trying washers. I was working on the carb and swapping out the generator.

I did find a pair of headlight shells with the mounting rivets intact. I'm pretty sure that will take care of the greater share of the problem. If not, I will let you know.
Thanks for your help guys,
Jon