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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 220
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The copper head gasket failed at number 1 cylinder in my truck about 1300 miles after a rebuild.
Looking at it I saw that there are 2 water passages at the front of the block, one between #1 and #2 cylinders, and one in the middle of the head that are substantially larger than the corresponding holes in the head gasket. It seemed to me that pressure building up at those restricted points could have contributed to the failure. I see that there are 2 styles of gasket: small hole and large hole as can be seen here: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...er_deluxe.html But talking to a couple of people here it seems that having small hole gaskets is preferred to send more water to the back of the engine. So which should I go with: small hole or large hole gaskets. This is for my 47 COE, a working truck that is used to haul loads of a few tons now and then. Tom |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Irving, Texas
Posts: 598
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Tom, I think you want to use the FP7283B for your truck. That is the configuration I am using for my 46 engine. Ed
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#3 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 5,230
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The gaskets are actually the design point controlling water flow distribution. Some holes are big for manufaturing reasons and coring, some may have been re-tuned with gasket work late in development.
The large gasket heads, 1938-42-WWII (trapezoidal holes near center) actually no longer have any application...if you look in the Ford '37-48 engine manual you will see that engines with the early heads were to have a couple of holes redrilled and then to be fitted with 59A gaskets when worked on. You should use the gasket with all round holes in the center. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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Your engine was originally produced with studs and these have two problems.
One there hard to clean, and two are pron to over torquing. I've re-used the old copper sandwich gaskets dozens of times with out any problems. Check deck and head surface, torque to 45 ft/lbs, re torque after for 3 heat cycles. Use copper coat or Hi Tack. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ashland KY
Posts: 1,159
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I used the fs7283b from advance auto there are composit gaskets and teck man from fel-pro says put on clean and dry and retorque a couple times.i have allimmun heads is why i went with the composit .
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DON P |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 220
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Tom |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 220
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![]() Quote:
Tom |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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The deck of a Flathead varies in thickness and can distort from over torquing. I never exceed 45 lbs and re torque after after each heat cycles. Makr sure the block and head are clean and flat.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 301
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Good info here. I'm a long way from reassembly but good to know.
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Building a 29 Sedan on 32 chassis........ very slowly.... ![]() |
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