A&L condensor

[Dave in Petaluma]

Can anyone tell me if the "short proof" condenser, made by A&L, is visually identifiable? I have several condensers here on the bench and most have the tabs secured with three tiny spot welds. A couple have the tab secured with solder. One with the spot weld has my own marking "A&L", but I'm not certain that it is.
Thanks in advance for any enlightenment.

[jak]

the ones made by A&L are the ones with the solder at the end.

[Joe K]

March-April 2026 Restorer Magazine page 16-17 article on original versus reproduction condensers.

The distinguishing feature of first design condensers is a brass "clip" at the screw to breaker plate end of the condenser. Also originals can be seen to be "double cased". The first design didn't last long - by 8/8/27 the drawing had been revised to eliminate the brass clip. 5 subsequent revisions into 1930. The double enclosure didn't change.

Today's repop don't include the brass clip and are very obviously constructed as single case.

The article (written by electrical engineer) claims modern production is superior (i.e. more "short proof") but does not differentiate A&L as a manufacturer.

Joe K

[ModelA29]

Is it A&L who make the ones with the 3 spot welds on the tab? I've heard they are the best repops.

[Flathead]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

Is it A&L who make the ones with the 3 spot welds on the tab? I've heard they are the best repops.

Yes!

[Bob Bidonde]

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Here are some tips about condensers (AKA capacitors).

[ursus]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Here are some tips about condensers (AKA capacitors).

Bob, the black lead in your illustration should connect to the (-) jack on the device.

[Kurt in NJ]

The original A&L condenser had the tab just soldered on.
I was using it and melted the solder— I just bent the tab to make contact and kept driving.
At the next Hershey I mentioned that it happened and was given the updated spot welded one — that was probably 30+ years ago and it’s still fine.

[Dave in Petaluma]

Thanks Kurt, you finally told me what I needed to know, but now I can't distinguish between the newer A&L condensers and the NORS condensers in my collection, both of which have identical spot welds. I guess either of them will work better than the offshore brands.

[Kurt in NJ]

the regular ones didn’t last very long and that was before offshore ones.
I was good at changing them — could almost do it at a red light— the key is to keep the screwdriver on the screw in the hole during the removal and replacement until the screw was started.

[Bruce of MN]

I have this image of a Model A driver with a bandito-style bandoleer full of condensers.

[Flathead]

And now we all have this image!

[David in San Antonio]

When I got the Wretched Roadster the condenser was mounted to the firewall and it worked fine. Someone suggested it got less engine heat there rather than in the distributor, but I have no proof either way.

[duke36]

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

When I got the Wretched Roadster the condenser was mounted to the firewall and it worked fine. Someone suggested it got less engine heat there rather than in the distributor, but I have no proof either way.

This is true from my experience, and the distance to the distributor doesn't appear to be an issue. Engine pans may help direct the air from the fan cooling the condenser in both locations.