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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lake Forest, California
Posts: 280
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I am working on the rear brakes on my Cabriolet. Tonight, after packing the rear roller bearings I tried to put in the hub seals. Ugh—they seem too big to go in. Is there a trick to this or do I have the wrong seals? Just to confirm, the seal lip points “in” toward the bearing?
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Experience is a cruel teacher. It gives the exam first, then the lesson. The first 4 hours of a 30 minute repair job are the worst. The next 2 hours usually go much better. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 39
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I used this for my 1929 Coupe and it worked well.
Snyder’s part number: HUB SEAL DRIVER Part # A-1175-T | Model Year 28-31 Use this handy tool for pressing the A-1175 seal into the rear wheel hub. Presses seal in to the proper depth for the snap ring to be installed. U.S.A. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lake Forest, California
Posts: 280
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Chalk this up as experience—I learn the hard way again. Thank you LAV—looks like I need to get a seal driver.
__________________
Experience is a cruel teacher. It gives the exam first, then the lesson. The first 4 hours of a 30 minute repair job are the worst. The next 2 hours usually go much better. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,673
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I have access to a lathe, so I made a driver out of some round stock. Regardless, after you get the seal in place but before you install the snap ring, go around the outside of the seal and tap-tap-tap the perimeter down with a large punch and hammer to assure that it’s in place and square.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan (under reconstruction) 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,600
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About 4 years ago I had a pair of seals that were definitely a smidgin too large, prudent emerying of the seal resolved the problem. The more recent seals seem to fit OK using an off-cut of wood and gentle tap tap tap technique.
"Just to confirm, the seal lip points “in” toward the bearing?" YES |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lake Forest, California
Posts: 280
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Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
__________________
Experience is a cruel teacher. It gives the exam first, then the lesson. The first 4 hours of a 30 minute repair job are the worst. The next 2 hours usually go much better. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,595
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I just did mine. Broke down and bought a HF seal driver. I tapped it in just below the snap ring groove. Installed the snap ring then dropped it a couple times (about 8- 10") for the bearing to drive the seal back against the snap ring.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,434
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I use an old bearing as a tool to drive the seal in and stop just as the groove for circlip is exposed.
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When all is said and done, more is said than done. That's why we judge people on what they do, not what they say. I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. If I am not in trouble, I've done something wrong. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2023
Location: Redneck Ranch on Hot Rod Hill
Posts: 114
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+1 on the seal driver. Fast and perfect
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 927
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Warrandyte, Melbourne,Victoria, Australia
Posts: 136
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I always recommend to customers installing ANY oil seals to use a socket slightly bigger than the OD of the oil seal itself whether it's imperial or metric NEVER EVER press on the seal it self as you could damage not only the housing (OD) BUT more&most importantly the lip &spring which holds the lubricant in.
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#12 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,595
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Quote:
Quote:
I've used this method in the past (I also use sockets for pressing U Joints). But I didn't have a 3" in dia socket or an old bearing........ |
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#13 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2025
Posts: 1
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Doesn’t work if the seal is too large. I’ve tried.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
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I have the Harbor Freight seal driver kit. It comes in both standard and metric sizes. I found that one of the metric drivers fits the Model A hub.
The kit was inexpensive and worked perfectly.. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 6,076
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How much larger should the seal be than the hub?
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,686
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For about the same price as Snyders, this offers more choices.
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/SKYSHA...CABEgJsDvD_BwE I have also used the economy tool. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8137&cat=41753 |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 34
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A trick that has helped me is to put the seal in the freezer well before I am going to work on greasing the bearings; make sure the edge of the hub where the seal is going to be inserted has no burrs then after the bearing is in place, put a smear of light oil at the top and quickly put the seal in place using the Rear Hub Seal Driver (Snyder's PN A-1175-T)
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,212
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The Snyder tool A-1175-T tool works better with a press than just banging it with a hammer.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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