My new 1930 2-dr sedan

[katy]

Originally Posted by Keith True

Chickle.Chicle drab,the color.

Thanks

[atch]

I also see that this car has the (apparently) highly desirable 1-piece 2-blade aluminum fan. Looks a little grungy, but it's there and a magnet doesn't stick to it. Temp consistently stays 170° - 175° according to the aftermarket mechanical temp gauge.

Question: is that normal operating temp? sounds a little cool to me.

[David in San Antonio]

Ethanol is highly hydroscopic , that is, it absorbs water like crazy, even humidity from the air. This can rust the inside of an uncoated Model A fuel tank.
Ethanol does have some upsides. “Dry Gas” is ethanol, which comes in handy if you get some water in the fuel. Adding ethanol allows the water to go through the engine. Another potential benefit of ethanol is that it cools the intake charge, and can boost the anti-knock properties of the fuel, potentially allowing a higher compression ratio.

[1930artdeco]

Atch welcome to slower side of the barn! You have a very nice early late model 30 Tudor. Just want to mess with you a bit. Ford for some weird reason split the splash apron into 2 pieces unlike the 28, 29, late 30 and 31 models. So if you are ever on the lookout for fenders those are the ones to get. They can be made up but it is labor intensive.

As for the fan, as long as it is the reproduction fan you will be fine. 170 is about right maybe a tad cool but for where you live it will save you in the summer. You may want to check out the firewall insulators that you can get from the vendors. They say they work great at lower cabin temps.

Mike

[mercman from oz]

Love your new 1930 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan.
Ford Australia offered Model A Tudor Sedans in 1928 and 1929 only.
Come 1930, and the only body style available were Fordor Sedan, Roadster, Phaeton and Sports Coupe, plus Utes.

[atch]

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Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

...As for the fan, as long as it is the reproduction fan you will be fine. 170 is about right maybe a tad cool but for where you live it will save you in the summer...

Today while on my way into town I got held up at some road construction and had to sit for about ten minutes. Needle got up to about 210 and I was glad it does normally run a bit cool. Since these cars usually only get driven when the weather's warm I guess that's really a good thing.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

Ethanol is highly hydroscopic , that is, it absorbs water like crazy, even humidity from the air. This can rust the inside of an uncoated Model A fuel tank.
Ethanol does have some upsides. “Dry Gas” is ethanol, which comes in handy if you get some water in the fuel. Adding ethanol allows the water to go through the engine. Another potential benefit of ethanol is that it cools the intake charge, and can boost the anti-knock properties of the fuel, potentially allowing a higher compression ratio.

Not meaning to sound like a college lecture, but to help clarify with a more accurate lexicon. I was wondering about the correct usage of the word and found this on the ole interweb...I thought I would post it. Just wanting to help eliminate confusion and misinformation:

"Hygroscopic" and "Hydroscopic" are two terms that can easily be confused due to their phonetic similarities. However, only "Hygroscopic" is the scientifically accepted term, denoting a substance's ability to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding environment. This property is vital in many industrial and scientific applications, such as in the storage of certain chemicals or the design of humidity-sensitive equipment.


On the contrary, "Hydroscopic" is not a recognized term in scientific lexicons. It's often a mispronunciation or misspelling of "Hygroscopic." The prefix "Hygro-" comes from the Greek word for moisture, making "Hygroscopic" a term inherently about moisture absorption. Thus, using "Hydroscopic" instead of "Hygroscopic" is a mistake that can lead to misunderstandings, especially in contexts where the precise meaning is crucial.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

Not meaning to sound like a college lecture, but to help clarify with a more accurate lexicon. I was wondering about the correct usage of the word and found this on the ole interweb...I thought I would post it. Just wanting to help eliminate confusion and misinformation:

"Hygroscopic" and "Hydroscopic" are two terms that can easily be confused due to their phonetic similarities. However, only "Hygroscopic" is the scientifically accepted term, denoting a substance's ability to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding environment. This property is vital in many industrial and scientific applications, such as in the storage of certain chemicals or the design of humidity-sensitive equipment.


On the contrary, "Hydroscopic" is not a recognized term in scientific lexicons. It's often a mispronunciation or misspelling of "Hygroscopic." The prefix "Hygro-" comes from the Greek word for moisture, making "Hygroscopic" a term inherently about moisture absorption. Thus, using "Hydroscopic" instead of "Hygroscopic" is a mistake that can lead to misunderstandings, especially in contexts where the precise meaning is crucial.

Interesting... I can see where a mixup could occur since "Hydro" is usually related to water, as in hydroelectric.

I learned something new.

[Fullraceflathead]

To quote the late great famous Gene Winfield “Everyday is a school day” is very true!!!

[al's28/33]

she's a pretty sedan enjoy it as much as possible.

[BlueSunoco]

atch--- ya done good!

Beautiful car plus you are respecting your buddy! Chicle and Copra look great on Tudors!

A Tudor is a fantastic all-around Model A Ford, they really don't get any better in my mind. Easy to get in and out plus they are pretty warm in cold weather they button up a lot better than an open top car

[atch]

Yeah; I was specifically looking for a 2-dr sedan. I want the grandkids to be able to ride in the back and I'm pretty sure that none of the three daughters would let their offspring ride in a rumble seat. And I didn't want a 4-door car.

I found several nice coupes but see above.

In one week I've put 240 miles on it. For some of you that's just a day or two. For many of the members of the Model A club I belong to that's 6 months of driving.

I have gotten pretty adept at double clutching by now. Down-shifting still gets me. What's your secret to down-shifting without grinding gears?

If I had never had an A with a Mitchell overdrive I wouldn't miss it. BUT, since this is my first Model A and I'm getting used to it I'd never have another one without it. Depending on the terrain I'm driving in my shift pattern usually is 1-low; 2-low; 2-high; 3-low; 3-high. If I start up a hill I shift to 3-low. I hate it when the hill requires me to downshift further. Again see above.

I downloaded a Model A lubrication chart. If I can stay out of the driver's seat long enough I'll ensure that everything is greased up. Knowing my friend Dick, who owned this car for many years, I doubt if it needs anything yet. He kept all of his toys in top-notch condition. I found out last night that his pristine 1931 coupe was purchased by another car club member, so both of his Model A's will stay in the same circle of friends. Who knows where the Corvette and boat went to? I really don't care much, though.

Thank you all who have responded here with advice. I really appreciate it.

I do think I'll set the idle up a tad, as after it's warmed up it idles down so slow, at stop signs and such, that it sometimes dies. I've gotten to where I use the throttle on the steering column to prevent that. Any advice or information on this?

[fourfords]

Chickle and Copra Drab

[mercman from oz]

2 Blade Aluminium Fan Blade

[Fullraceflathead]

When down shifting you need to rev it up a little bit it takes some practice but if you increase the RPMS just a little bit it should shift easily when downshifting.

[atch]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

When down shifting you need to rev it up a little bit it takes some practice but if you increase the RPMS just a little bit it should shift easily when downshifting.

I've been trying that; but obviously I need to try harder.


Thanks.

fwiw; You might have read above that my daughter's name is now TOD (Transfer On Death) on the title but she's never seen it. She and her family are coming to dinner this evening and I've got it outside prominently displayed for when they get here.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by atch

I've been trying that; but obviously I need to try harder.


Thanks.

fwiw; You might have read above that my daughter's name is now TOD (Transfer On Death) on the title but she's never seen it. She and her family are coming to dinner this evening and I've got it outside prominently displayed for when they get here.

Hi Mike. Great car! You are probably aware, but when downshifting the engine needs to be sped up while the trans is in neutral and your foot is off the clutch during the double clutch process. Try to imagine what rpm the engine will be in the gear you're shifting into.

[Robert/Texas]

I bet that I'm the first one on this forum to ride in a 1930 Model A 2-door. My father bought his new. It was black and was his first car. In 1934 I came from the hospital in it. He hated the car because it was a 2-door and in 1937 he traded it in for a new Plymouth 4-door and never bought anything but 4-door cars again.

[atch]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

Hi Mike. Great car! You are probably aware, but when downshifting the engine needs to be sped up while the trans is in neutral and your foot is off the clutch during the double clutch process. Try to imagine what rpm the engine will be in the gear you're shifting into.

Yep. I'll keep trying. I always thought of myself as well coordinated hand/eye and pretty much mechanically inclined. Guess I was fooling myself.

Like I said; I'll keep trying. I'm thinking lots of folks less coordinated than me have mastered this. Someday I will also.

[atch]

For everyone who has commented positively on this car A BIG THANK YOU. I had known this car for a long time and my friend Dick who owned it for nearly 25 years kept all of his toys (multiple Model A's, Corvette, boat, etc.) in immaculate condition and maintained to the Nth degree. I'm exceptionally fortunate to become the new caretaker of this car. I'd rather Dick was still alive and enjoying it himself, but since that's not possible I'm glad I have it.

The state of Missouri requires vehicles licensed as historic to carry a mileage log showing dates, miles, destination, etc. I have Dick's and the precious owner's logs back to sometime in the 1990's. So far I've kept every mile I've driven in a new log. For some reason this never seemed to be very important to me in the 1948 Ford panel truck that I bought in 1973 and for which I got Historic Vehicle license plates in 1976. I think I'll start keeping the log updated in the panel. MO allows unlimited mileage to "educational and/or display" functions and up to 1,000 miles for "personal use." I.e., you can put a thousand miles on it for anything you choose, such as to the grocery store etc. I pretty much am of the opinion, though, that everywhere I go is for "display" purposes.