9" rear in a jailbar truck

[cas3]

Could also make a jig to hold it and bore it straight in your lathe

[cas3]

Thinking some more...If I remember correctly, you have a big macho vise. If you lay that bracket into the jaws, it would not be parallel to the jaws due to the tapered axle design.

If it was heated to cherry red then put in the macho vise, and squeezed until parallel.
A chunk of tube the right size clamped in the coniferation for reference would be ideal.
In the end, you may have to reshape the angle of the tabs where the U bolts go thru.

May take more than two hands to hustle while its hot !

[GB SISSON]

Skip, you're makin' me alot of extra work here! I think that since the small end fits just right, there is too much material on the big end. I do see that I could use the red hot method to reshape these pieces if they are made of something malleable enough. I'm guessing they are either cast from gearcase type iron or forged from steel. I'm still thinking a 3/32" x 3/4" wide strip of steel laid in the saddle of the big side would do the trick. (Like a jumbo sized stick of wrigley's spearmint)I wonder how many people have swapped a 9' into an old truck like mine and never even considered this strain point? I'm sure more than one good ol' boy has just cranked the cheater piped breaker bar until that big end got pulled into the perfect circumference. Or went 'click'. G'nite Jim-Bob

[cas3]

Yeah, I have been known to "over think" at times. I would guess Henry made those from forged steel as they are a pretty important part on a truck, strength needed. The jail bar woody is probably not going to be in the truck pull at the county fair, so your shims will be fine. Carry on.

[GB SISSON]

Or like I just saw on the 'ford truck enthusiast' forum, simply use the mounting hardware from the F 100. Radiused U bolts with plates on top of the spring and the threads pointing skyward. I may put off the 9" swap until later in the summer as I really need to get my skidsteer back up and running. It is how my wife and I move our yearly 5 cords of firewood and this is the time of year to get serious about firewood!

[sidevalve8ba]

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Five cords is a pile of firewood! I usually go through about three cords in a winter and I thougjht that was a lot.

[GB SISSON]

Sidevalve, I built my hose 45 years ago on a shoestring budget. 1200 sq ft , 3 bedrooms.It was weather tight when we moved in, and total outlay was just under 5 grand. Sure the siding was still just tarpaper, but it was the good 30lb stuff! The roof material is 1" thick cedar shakes I hand split from beach logs and is still on duty. All windows are single pane and the insulation is 3 1/2" fiberglass in ceiling and walls and 1" foam under the floors. Yes, for sure we do burn a lot of wood. We used to do it with four cords, but I no longer generate the amount of wood scrap as we did when I had 2 or 3 employees helping me.
Now you know all about my house, but what I came on here to say is I seem to have located the missing link in hooking up the dissimilar rear brake lines. It took a while, but I just ordered a Dorman 785-434 D adapter that goes from a female 1/4" (tube) brake inverted flare to a 3/16" (tube) male inverted brake flare. This wil go ahead of the 1971 f100 rear hose I ordered.
Best of all is that by using precise scientific methodology I have determined that the 9" axle's yoke is in the exact location as the current banjo's yoke AND uses the same U-joint. Some of you will recall last spring's rousing debate, which I think was pretty much Me against all of you, in which I attempted to create a custom driveshaft, telescopic in nature from an S 10 driveshaft with a ford tube in the rear. It would have worked great if I hadn't gone and tested it with my recently purchased dial indicator. Yikes. All my previous ones had worked just fine..... What I'm saying is that the 'store bought' driveshaft I had custom made (and balanced!) last year shows all indications of being a bolt in on th 9". If I sound bored, I only had about an hour of assembly left on my major skidsteer repair and it started pouring rain, so I'm next to the wood stove drying out.

[sidevalve8ba]

Gary, I have the greatest admiration for anyone who can build their own home. That is a monumental feat in itself. I have been accused of a few things in my life but never of being a carpenter! I am curious about what type of wood you burn. Probably somewhat different than what we use here. I burn mostly seasoned white oak.

Keep up the news on the 9 inch project. I've used them for years with very good results.

Ted

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by sidevalve8ba

Gary, I have the greatest admiration for anyone who can build their own home. That is a monumental feat in itself. I have been accused of a few things in my life but never of being a carpenter! I am curious about what type of wood you burn. Probably somewhat different than what we use here. I burn mostly seasoned white oak.

Keep up the news on the 9 inch project. I've used them for years with very good results.

Ted

Thanks Ted, but building a house in my 20's was actually relatively easy and painless as opposed to tearing half of a 1984 case skidsteer apart to get into the oily bilge and wrestle with a jungle of hoses, pumps, six big roller chains, an Italian air cooled diesel someone swapped in that blocked access to factory bolts.... at 72 years old. Add to this it all had to be done in the woods where it broke because the axle that failed lost it's chain which bound up the wheels on one side and it couldn't be towed.

Flash forward to 9" rear. With the needed fitting on order for converting to 3/16" lines, and driveshaft mods hopefully averted, I turned my attention to the parking brakes. When you live and work on ground that is steeper than a cow's face, and you run a single master cylinder you gotta have good ones. The cables with the 9" housing are in perfect shape and have the expanding ring of spring steel blades that click into the backing plate, but they just have a ball end where I need a clevis. Plus they are about 6" too long. I have sketched up a sleeve for the chassis end of the cable jacket and another weld on affair to get a 5/16" x 24 threaded end for the clevis. Making these parts parts would be extremely tedious with my grinder, hacksaw, drill and vise, but adding this old metal lathe should make light work of it. Oh, and Ted... Douglas Fir. White oak in my dreams.......

[Death Row Dave]

In todays world of parts , the 8.8 with 5.5 bolt pattern is your friend in cost and availability

[GB SISSON]

I opted for the 9" because my reasearch showed that one of these from a '57-'71 F100 would be a direct bolt in for width, spring perches etc. The complete drun to drum axle, minus the 3rd member was 150.00 and close by. The third was totally rebuilt with a great price from a fellow barner. I'm happy with my outlay. Many of you know how 'thrifty' I can be.

[GB SISSON]

I decided that buying the F 100 U bolt assemblies would just add further cost to this swap so I looked at what I had. Remember that forged plate that was made for a tapered axle housing. I came up with a way to create a perfect fitting shim that would reshape the concave side of the plate to fit correctly against the 3 1/8" straight axle tube of the '71 axle. I had a 4" roll of black mesh from a yard sale. Looked like nylon but wouldn't melt so either fiberglass with a coating or carbon fiber or whatever. I also have a couple gallons of West System marine epoxy from the ship figurehead project. I wrapped a layer of waxed paper on the housing and taped it. Wetted it out with epoxy. started adding strips of mesh. One layer on the small end that fits, graduating up to eight layers on the end that needs it. Continued saturating the layered strips with epoxy by brush. Then set the steel cap on top pressing down firmly. Went for an afternoon drive in the foyota, Came back and trimmed the edges. I think this should take care of the fitment issue that I was concerned about without buying anything.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I decided that buying the F 100 U bolt assemblies would just add further cost to this swap so I looked at what I had. Remember that forged plate that was made for a tapered axle housing. I came up with a way to create a perfect fitting shim that would reshape the concave side of the plate to fit correctly against the 3 1/8" straight axle tube of the '71 axle. I had a 4" roll of black mesh from a yard sale. Looked like nylon but wouldn't melt so either fiberglass with a coating or carbon fiber or whatever. I also have a couple gallons of West System marine epoxy from the ship figurehead project. I wrapped a layer of waxed paper on the housing and taped it. Wetted it out with epoxy. started adding strips of mesh. One layer on the small end that fits, graduating up to eight layers on the end that needs it. Continued saturating the layered strips with epoxy by brush. Then set the steel cap on top pressing down firmly. Went for an afternoon drive in the foyota, Came back and trimmed the edges. I think this should take care of the fitment issue that I was concerned about without buying anything.

[GB SISSON]

Thank you my friend Pete.

[tubman]

Gary, I'm usually 110% with ya', but my first thought on this is that it ain't gonna last.

I hope I'm wrong. If it should fail, I expect it would give you plenty of notice.

[GB SISSON]

Denny, my thought is it's under great compression when the 4 fine thread u bolts are torqued down. I don't think there will be any movement between that plate and the axle. When I pull the banjo axle out I will have two more of the plates for backup projects. Perhaps building up some weld on the loose side and making a spacer between the two parts, bolting them together and then shaving down the weld with a boring bar, not unlike Skips idea. Or opening up my wallet and buying a set of f100 round style u bolts and their plates.

[cas3]

I think it will be fine. Now, Mart, drag racing on the beach...maybe not. GB carrying the pick nic basket and grand kids, ok.

[GB SISSON]

No old time picnic basket when the grandkids ride out to the lake with gramps. It's more like hit the convience store for a family size bag of cheetos and a six pack of coke and see if they can make it all disappear before we meet up with the parents at Cascade Lake.

I have been trying to have all the needed parts lined up and correct before I switch out the axles, so as to eliminate downtime. I think the springs are ready to go. I removed the original Ubolts, wire wheeled the threads sprayed them and reinstalled for time being. I have measured everything I can think of and now it's u-joint time. It sure seems that the old driveshaft that was originally in the woodie before the T5 swap fits nicely in the yoke that's on the Lanny Pumpkin from Minnesota. Then I noticed the bolt holes for the ujoint's ubolts seemed further apart. This might be a 1310 ujoint with the 'big cap'? I read that was common on ford f100s. Like maybe one cross on the Ujoint has 1/8" caps and the other cross has 1/16th" caps. Both yokes have the same length for the distance between caps which I recall was 3.19". Confused? I am. In review: Both yokes on the '47 axle and the '71 axle are the same width, but the '47 centers for it it's 5/16" ubolts are 1 3/8" on center and the '47's are 1 5/8 on center, like it needs a larger cap.... Any body know these parts?

[Scotty's 52 F3]

The width is the same and the cap diameter is the same but the cap bolt centers are different?

Are we talking cast caps or straps? I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Dang Gary, you're SO close.

[cas3]

If I remember correctly, you have a parts store on the island, how good is he? Remember
the old days when they had a row of books about 10 feet long, and the man in charge could find anything. Since you have all the math done, maybe they can help. I'm sure there are lots of yokes available for the 9", but thats more of a project