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Old 06-03-2025, 05:53 PM   #1
1960BreadTruck
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Default The Bread Truck Rebuild

Well guys, after a few years of asking, my grandma gave me great-grandad's old bread truck. I believe the frame is a 1 ton, and the body is from Ward, a coach fitter out of New York. Grandpa had some fun with it, and swapped the straight-six out with a 351w, code C9OE-6015. The engine is out and getting bored, no problems there, but I do have some questions about the set up. The tranny is a t87d out of who knows what, but it's in decent shape so I'll stick with it for a while. Question I have is: What kind of rear end is this I'm working with here? Maybe a heavy duty one? I also need a new flywheel, the teeth a pretty torn up, but I am unsure if it's been modified as the bell-housing to motor plate is a bit homemade. Anyway, here's a few pictures of the ol' beast. I plant to have a lot of fun with it this summer, thanks for all your insight!
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Old 06-03-2025, 07:22 PM   #2
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Post Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

This is on a FORD chassis? Do you see a RATING PLATE anywhere? There should be a RATING PLATE and a BODY COMPANY PLATE.

What model year does the title call out?
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Old 06-04-2025, 01:34 AM   #3
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild



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Old 06-04-2025, 10:56 AM   #4
1960BreadTruck
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

The title calls out 1960, and there is two plates but one of them is pretty much illegible. Here's a picture of the one I can make the numbers out on, I'll get a better picture later though.
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Old 06-04-2025, 07:06 PM   #5
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Thumbs up Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

If you can post the SERIAL NO, MODEL, DATE, TRANS AND AXLE CODES (illegible) I should be able to break it down for you.
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Old 06-04-2025, 09:13 PM   #6
1960BreadTruck
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

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serial: P35JOH19169 - O could be a zero, no hash through it so idk
model: P352
date 09L
trans n axle: G
max gvw: 8000lbs
hp: 126 (lol)
then theres 4196 after that for DSO or something
Thank you kind sir!
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Old 06-05-2025, 02:53 AM   #7
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Arrow Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

- VIN P35J0H19169 -

P35 - 1960/63 P350 (GAS)
J - 1957/60 223CI 6CYL 1V
0 - 1960 MODEL YEAR
H- LOUISVILLE (ASSY PLANT)

MODEL NO. - P352 - 1960/63 - 7.2M RR AXLE
DATE (BUILD) - 09L - 09 NOV 1959
TRANS - N - 5S DIRECT - SPICER MODEL NO. 5652
AXLE (RR) - 1S TIMKEN - MODEL NO. B140 - 7.2M
- RECT. AXLE HSG - RG 10-1/4"
DSO - DISTRICT CODE 41 - CHICAGO

There may be an ID TAG on the rear carrier.

Any questions or clarifications, just ask.

P - SERIES CODE - PARCEL DELIVERY
350 - ON F-350 CHASSIS
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Old 06-05-2025, 02:59 AM   #8
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Exclamation Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

FORGOT -

On the flywheel, check for any FORD CASTING ID on the back of it. If the face is good or can be turned, you might be able to get away with just a ring gear.
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"Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'."

― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling)
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Old 06-05-2025, 03:28 PM   #9
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Sweet, thank you for all the info! The casting number on the flywheel reads C5AE-E, and 4B25. I thought it might be possible to replace the ring gear, how difficult would that be? Can't say I've ever had to tackle that. Id give the teeth about 25% life so, its def gonna need to be replaced. EDIT: Ok, that was awful but the old ring gear is off there. Now to find a new one...
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Old 06-05-2025, 04:32 PM   #10
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Arrow Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Find the flywheel ID attached - FORD PN C5AZ 6375-S

The ring gear is replaced with heating and contraction. A machine shop could do it if no torch.

Make sure you count the number of teeth on yours to find the correct replacement - C5AZ 6384-D (164T)
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Old 06-16-2025, 11:17 AM   #11
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Well, fingies crossed, I go get the machined block and heads today! I do have a question about sealing up that exhaust passage through the intake though... are there any real performance/reliability concerns I should know about? What is the preferred method for sealing that port off? I don't plan to drive this anytime it's below 40F so... thoughts?
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Old 06-16-2025, 05:03 PM   #12
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

You simply buy a intake manifold gasket set with block-offs for the heat cross-over. It is for cold weather only. Use an electric choke.
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Old 06-28-2025, 07:27 AM   #13
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Well, things have changed dramatically since the last post. Motor is just about done with assembly, gonna mock up exhaust next. I did have an issue with the new timing chain set, it is the double roller chain from coyles, and it seems to be different than the factory sprocket as it hit the camshaft thrust plate. I ended up grinding some of it off and made it fit just fine but, kinda curious if it is just a yearly difference, maybe they cut that plate smaller in later years. Either way, it's still holding the freeze plug in, and I'm moving on to rear lights and putting the clutch together
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Old 06-28-2025, 07:37 AM   #14
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

I would also like to state how expensive 4 in 1 gauge clusters are, and how much of a cheap-ass I can be. I'm doing my own digital cluster with and arduino nano and lcd display, its going into the original bezel and glass. Also gonna run the radiator fan control here too, manual and auto. Here's a preview (ignore the readings), I went with a rounder font for that retro feel. Did it all for about 30 bucks. Nerd shit for the win
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Old 06-28-2025, 08:04 AM   #15
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Care to share the "nerd shit" how to?
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Old 06-28-2025, 08:20 AM   #16
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Thumbs up Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Quote:
I did have an issue with the new timing chain set, it is the double roller chain from coyles, and it seems to be different than the factory sprocket as it hit the camshaft thrust plate. I ended up grinding some of it off and made it fit just fine but, kinda curious if it is just a yearly difference, maybe they cut that plate smaller in later years.
I would have called CLOYES TECH and asked.

What year engine and CLOYES PN?

Lookin' Good!

Will the exhaust have a HEAT RISER VALVE?
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― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling)
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Old 06-28-2025, 08:28 AM   #17
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Parts list first, you get any of these anywhere:
Processor: Arduino Nano, or whatever compatable arduino board you wanna use
Display: 12864 128x64 LCD with blue backlight
Temp sensor: DS18B20 I2C sensor, they were cheap
Oil pressure sensor: 0-100psi Stainless pressure transducer from the jungle website
Fuel Sensor: Universal Doorman level sensor with 33-330 ohm range

The voltage sensor is just a voltage divider at 5:1 so 12v comes in at around 2.4v.
The fuel sensor is about the same, use two 1k ohm resistors to reduce the current through the circuit, and get the differential reading on an analog input.
I can post wiring diagrams too if you need, but it can be inferred. Heres my code:

#include <Wire.h>
#include <U8g2lib.h>
#include <OneWire.h>
#include <DallasTemperature.h>

#define ONE_WIRE_BUS 2 // Temp sensor
#define FAN_PWM_PIN 6 // Fan control output
#define MODE_BUTTON 3 // Mode toggle button
#define UP_BUTTON 4 // Manual fan speed up
#define DOWN_BUTTON 5 // Manual fan speed down

OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS);
DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire);
const int oilpressin = A0;
const int fuellevelin = A1;
const int voltagein = A2;

U8G2_ST7920_128X64_F_SW_SPI u8g2(U8G2_R0, 13, 11, 12, U8X8_PIN_NONE);

bool manualMode = false;
int fancommand = 0;
int fanperc;
unsigned long lastDebounce = 0;

void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
sensors.begin();
u8g2.begin();

pinMode(MODE_BUTTON, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(UP_BUTTON, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(DOWN_BUTTON, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(FAN_PWM_PIN, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
sensors.requestTemperatures();
float temp1 = sensors.getTempFByIndex(0);
int oilin = analogRead(oilpressin);
int fuelin = analogRead(fuellevelin);
int battin = analogRead(voltagein);

int oilscaled = map(oilin, 0, 1024, 0, 100);
int fuelscaled = map(fuelin, 0, 1024, 1, 48);
float battscaled = (battin / 1023.0) * 25;

// manual auto mode
if (digitalRead(MODE_BUTTON) == LOW && millis() - lastDebounce > 250) {
manualMode = !manualMode;
lastDebounce = millis();
}

if (manualMode) {
if (digitalRead(UP_BUTTON) == LOW && fancommand < 255) {
fancommand += 20;
delay(100);
}
if (digitalRead(DOWN_BUTTON) == LOW && fancommand > 0) {
fancommand -= 20;
delay(100);
}
} else {
// Auto mode logic
if (temp1 < 50) fancommand = 0;
else fancommand = map(temp1, 50, 90, 0, 255);
}


analogWrite(FAN_PWM_PIN, fancommand);

//draw the frame
u8g2.clearBuffer();
u8g2.drawLine(0, 32, 128, 32);
u8g2.drawLine(73, 0, 73, 64);
u8g2.drawRFrame(0, 0, 128, 64, 8);
//engine temp
u8g2.setFont(u8g2_font_DigitalDiscoThin_tf);
u8g2.setCursor(3, 29); u8g2.print(temp1);
//fan mode and command reading
u8g2.print(manualMode ? " M" : " A");
u8g2.print(fanperc = map(fancommand, 0, 255, 0, 100));
u8g2.setCursor(4, 13); u8g2.print("Eng Temp");
//oil pressure
u8g2.setCursor(7, 45); u8g2.print("Oil Press");
u8g2.setCursor(20, 60); u8g2.print(oilscaled);
u8g2.print("PSI");
//fuel
u8g2.drawBox(75, 20, fuelscaled, 10);
u8g2.setCursor(119, 17); u8g2.print("F");
u8g2.setCursor(76, 17); u8g2.print("E");
u8g2.drawLine(76, 30, 124, 30); u8g2.drawLine(125, 29, 125, 20);
u8g2.setCursor(87, 13); u8g2.print("Fuel");
//voltage
u8g2.setCursor(75, 45); u8g2.print("Voltage");
u8g2.setCursor(85, 60); u8g2.print(battscaled);

u8g2.sendBuffer();
delay(100);
}


You'll need to download the included libraries too, let me know if you have any questions!
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Old 06-28-2025, 10:35 AM   #18
1960BreadTruck
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

The engine is a 69', cloyes P/N was 9-1135. No heat riser, went the satanic route and stuffed the intake with foil and half a tube of red rtv.
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Old 07-05-2025, 08:24 AM   #19
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

This thing is sweet!
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Old 07-09-2025, 10:16 PM   #20
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Default Re: The Bread Truck Rebuild

Thanks! So I got another one for ya, this time about the throw out bearing retainer... is there a seal for this thing?!? It doesn't seem to have room for one, but how the heck does it keep oil in? There are threads in the tube, maybe they fling the oil back in, and you just never park downhill
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