Broken light switch rod - How to repair?

[Marshall V. Daut]

I added this to the long thread I started about a light switch problem I was having. I think this posting is buried too deep in that thread, which people are probably sick and tired of reading by now. So, I am starting this new thread in the hope that more people will see it and possibly supply the answer needed.

Problem: Where the rod tube attaches to the light switch head underneath was a little wobbly when I pulled it out of the steering shaft (which had NO nut on it, by the way!). The tube let loose while I was testing the horn and separated from the switch body, dangling by the wire running through the center. I tried soldering it back, but no go. Has anyone else experienced this and how were you able to put the two pieces back together enough to withstand the lateral pressure exerted up on it when the light switch is activated?

Marshall

[J Franklin]

If it can be cleaned well it can be soldered I would think.

[katy]

This may help: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c.../A-3616-RK.pdf

[JOES31]

If you have welding skills or know of a good welder, I would weld it.
Soldering it may be hit or miss. MIG used quickly and allowing each
weld to cool may be you best bet.

[J Franklin]

If welding use a TIG as it will do thinner materials.

[Jeff/Illinois]

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I'd agree with Mr. Franklin....

TIG it
These guys may be able to help they do intricate work I've heard good things about them, they are out in Eldridge...

https://www.premiermetalart.com/

[J Franklin]

I still think you should use solder. It is stronger than most believe and you can try it at home for little cost. Ford used solder on many parts of your car.

[Ray in La Mesa]

Silver solder is much stronger then ordinary electrical solder.

[figment]

I understand if you solder it might be best to use silver solder

[Keith True]

I think any ideas of welding are in the rear view mirror.
applying solder there kind of put it beyond the point of no return.There was a reason they were crimped on there.There is zero tolerance for the little brass bushing.What kinds of metal are the two parts made of? There used to be a guy that restored musical instruments and instrumentation a few miles from here,but to do something like that he would want a couple of samples of the material to test on.That's not one of those,zap a couple of tacks on it and go home.There are guys that can repair that kind of stuff,but how many hours of their time would you want to pay for? If I was bent on saving it I think I would study on a way to recrimp it back in place.

[J Franklin]

JB-Weld and save the grief. If you can't solder it. I think you can buy a new one from the parts stores.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Good advice so far. Thanks!
I'm afraid Crazy Glue or JB Weld won't work because the electrical wire running through the horn tube causes a springing action between the separated tube top and the switch body. You have to force the two together and hold them in that position to make a union. So, the springing tension pushing the two parts away from each other eliminates an epoxy - unless I want to hold the parts together for an hour while the epoxy cures. There's not much for the cup-shaped tube top to grab onto against the switch body, either. I think it's going to be a two-man job with a soldering gun or TIG welder: one to keep the two parts pressed against each other and the second person to do the soldering/TIG welding. The owner of the vehicle took the light rod to a retired welding shop owner today to see if he can put Humpty-Dumpty back together again. I sure hope we don't end up buying a new light switch and rod because of the expense and because after making the contacts work (upper and lower) and polishing the light switch to a near chrome-plated look, it'd be a shame not to re-use this one. I should know by early next week if the professional welder can save the day - and us $114 plus "handling " fees and oversized shipping.
Marshall

[bobbader]

I don't believe any kind of welding is an option. The switch bezel is "pot metal" and the rod is steel. Welding will may damage the switch bezel beyond its further usage. As was mentioned elsewhere in this thread ............. there's a reason they were crimped together at the factory. And, that was 90+ years ago before either piece had wear and before that switch was turned left or right of 6 o'clock how many times against tension in the light switch assembly.

That said, if these folks you mentioned can't fix it, JB Weld or the other epoxies may work, but both pieces need to be super, super clean and roughed up enough for the epoxy to stick. Plenty of Brake Clean, Acetone, or Lacquer Thinner will be your best friend in this case. Good luck.

[Kurt in NJ]

Find some steel tubing that just fits inside, a small hole can be drilled in the side of the switch rod to weld/solder the tubing inside

[rotorwrench]

Muggy Weld is the only solder available for zinc castings. It uses a flux that turns brown when the heat is high enough to apply filler. I wouldn't try any other method on zinc. How the plated switch handle will react to heat is a big question that I can't answer, but it might be worth a shot. Otherwise, it's time for a new reproduction or a rare good original part.

[1953M100]

I may have one of those for you, but it would be a bugger to ship. Do your ever get north to the Twin Cities?

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by 1953M100

I may have one of those for you, but it would be a bugger to ship. Do your ever get north to the Twin Cities?

Put it in a piece of PVC or ABS pipe, glue some caps on the ends and slap a shipping label on it. Safest way that that I know of shipping for things like that if you need to

[1953M100]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

Put it in a piece of PVC or ABS pipe, glue some caps on the ends and slap a shipping label on it. Safest way that that I know of shipping for things like that if you need to

Great tip!

@Marshall, if you're willing to cover packaging and shipping, it's yours N/C.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Thanks for the offer! We'll know this week if the welding guy can solder/TIG weld this thing back together. I'd sure hate to give up on this light switch rod after all the time and effort I put into making it functional and look good again. I'll see what the owner wants to do after we hear from the welder. The saga continues...
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

Well, rats! The welding shop owner tried to reattach the broken shaft to the light switch head, but had no success. I compared this light switch rod with a new one still in the wrapper and discovered the two are entirely different where the tube meets the switch head. The old one has the cup at the top of the rod that was apparently crimped to the light switch head, while the newer rod has a much more robust design. The rod would be hard-pressed to snap off or twist loose. A MUCH better design and construction! I think the one we have is an older off-shore poorly-made light switch from the 1980's, while the new one corrected this weak area.
The car's owner has decided to deep-six the old switch rod, bite the bullet and order a new one. So much for trying to repair/restore worn Model A parts! What a waste of time and frustration!
Thanks to everyone for their input. I wish we could have fixed the old switch tube. Now what? Toss it??? Yikes!
Marshall