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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 531
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For Coupes, Phaetons and other metal bodied cars what is the type of wood used for the various blocks between the body and the frame?
Vic |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Near Pittsburgh
Posts: 129
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I am not an expert, but the blocks i pulled out of my subframe looked like ash.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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Vic, I think most of my prints show these as a variety of wood, -likely what was native to Michigan in his Forests. Ironically, I rarely have seen Ash listed on all of my wood prints. Not sure if that was because of the lack of availability or something else.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 531
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Martin & Brent:
Thanks for the info. I have a piece of new wood and want to duplicate it. If it comes from North Carolina, who knows but probably ash. This car will never be inspected and it cannot be checked for type. I will cut up a few pieces and hope they fit. Vic |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,112
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I suggest that you use a hard wood so it does not easily compress and ruin the alignment of doors and hood. The rubber pad on the blocks will compress by 50% of their thickness over time, so the block wood should not add to this.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 531
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Vic |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Near Pittsburgh
Posts: 129
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Brent, thanks for posting that tech drawing. I think it's interesting they listed all those species. They all work differently, and i'm suprised there wasn't one type specified.
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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![]() Quote:
Ford engineers wanted to produce a robust automobile, but I suspect they did not have long-range longevity in mind. If their vehicle provided a service life of 10 years, I'm sure they were satisfied. Therefore as long as the wood lasted long enough that squeaks and rattles were not prevalent, -they were happy. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Great Dismal Swamp
Posts: 394
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I've had white oak advised as a replacement, particularly for my oddball Australian Model A with the wood subframe (the original species, Tasmanian Oak, is very, very hard to find in the US). The previous restorer in South Africa replaced pieces with acacia, as I assume it was easy to come by. That said, I haven't gotten to the point where I need to consider what species to use.
Point of my comment is...in my very general search for types of wood, I came across a government program where you can send them a piece of wood and they can identify the species. I've contemplated doing that with a piece of original wood to see what it actually was and what's close to it. Again...haven't gotten that far, but it's good to know the program exists. https://research.fs.usda.gov/fpl/identification
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Member, MARC Current owner, 1928 RHD Australian-built Phaeton CA4752 "Felicity" and a 1931 Victoria "Katie" Former owner, 1929 Phaeton, 1929 Fordor |
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