3D Printed Ford Battery Case Help

[WarbirdPhotog]

Hey all! After being frustrated with the lack of anyone making the 1940 Ford battery case anymore for the Red top Optima, and the Battery Central Mall 1940 Ford battery being SO expensive and a half year lead time... I decided to design and print the case myself. It's going to be a difficult task, but I want something that I can easily replace the Optima if something goes wrong but retains as close to the original style as possible.

I'm just getting started with it, but have made some really great progress thanks to Mike Kube (author of the incredible 'It's 40 for Ford' book). Using the photos in his book, the measurements he sent me along with some supplemental photos of other reproduction cases... here's what I have for the cover so far:


But I need some help from anyone who has one of the newer production Optima Red Top batteries (which I've heard are taller than the earlier ones). I'm looking for the measurements listed below in the photo so I can construct the battery in 3D to make sure my case design will fit.



Any photos of an original 1940 battery would also be really helpful as well! I'll try and keep this thread going with my progress over time building the 3D model, and then the printing and construction.

[ford38v8]

One point to consider before you finalize the design… All Optima Red Top batteries have the bottom cleat (foot tab),which must be clipped off for clearance within a Ford case of the Flathead era.

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

One point to consider before you finalize the design… All Optima Red Top batteries have the bottom cleat (foot tab),which must be clipped off for clearance within a Ford case of the Flathead era.

Yes, I've anticipated that. It's the same thing for the Willard WW2 Jeep battery cases that people still sell. I'm going to try and see if I can work them into the design. But if I can't then it'll come down to shaving it off.

[69a]

If you have an original battery case, a decent 3D printing company should have a hand held 3D scanner. You don't need to measure anything. They just wave it over like a magic wand. This will produce a 3D digital image of both batteries. They can then modify the image any way you want. for example you may want to make it 3/8" taller, to accommodate the Optima battery. You can digitally compare the two batteries in 3D on a computer screen and add or remove any features.
You can do the same with the labels and a digital printer. Ideal if you want low numbers printed.

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by 69a

If you have an original battery case, a decent 3D printing company should have a hand held 3D scanner. You don't need to measure anything. They just wave it over like a magic wand. This will produce a 3D digital image of both batteries. They can then modify the image any way you want. for example you may want to make it 3/8" taller, to accommodate the Optima battery. You can digitally compare the two batteries in 3D on a computer screen and add or remove any features.
You can do the same with the labels and a digital printer. Ideal if you want low numbers printed.

I do not have an original, otherwise I'd be well on my way. I'd prefer to make it myself in this situation, as having a company scan/design/print like that would probably cost more than going with the Battery Central Mall version when all is said and done. The top cover is already done, working on the side walls now. Once those are done and I do the bottom, then it's just digitally putting the Optima in there and tweaking slightly to fit. If I need to, I'll just go ahead and buy a Red Top and measure it that way (since I'll need one anyway), but I was hoping someone on here might have one handy to measure.

[69a]

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Ok. Interesting project!

[rockfla]

Warbirdphotog


I am working on a very similar project BUT for my two German Ford's and a "BOSCH" battery case. My plan is to do the 4 sides individually and the top by itself, then glue it together. I have the proper "Bosch" emblems for the sides!!!

[19Fordy]

"Fantastic !" Thank you for your 3D Battery case project. It is a big step forward and will help many Ford owners.

[35fordtn]

Would you be willing to sell the .stl file? My daughter has a 400mm bed plate 3d printer. She's printed quite a few flathead blocks, while thats not quite big enough for a battery case She could printer a smaller scale to see how it turns out

IMG_2996.jpg

[tubman]

My thanks for your efforts. This is something a lot of us could use and I hope you succeed.

[Conrad Rossi]

Indeed! This is great news. Please keep us posted on how it turns out. You probably already know this, there are online companies that will print your .stl file as a whole and offering different printing materials.

[tubman]

One suggestion. Perhaps you could offer the case in two different heights? Us "shoebox" guys aren't as limited in vertical height as those with batteries under the floorboards.

[rackops]

This might be a great idea for Model A batteries as well.

[Kens 36]

Originally Posted by WarbirdPhotog

But I need some help from anyone who has one of the newer production Optima Red Top batteries (which I've heard are taller than the earlier ones). I'm looking for the measurements listed below in the photo so I can construct the battery in 3D to make sure my case design will fit.

Hope you can read the numbers. This is from a battery purchased within the last year or so.

Ken

[Kens 36]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Would you be willing to sell the .stl file? My daughter has a 400mm bed plate 3d printer. She's printed quite a few flathead blocks, while thats not quite big enough for a battery case She could printer a smaller scale to see how it turns out

Attachment 558801

Will standard pistons work, or do we have to buy them from Charlotte?

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by Kens 36

Hope you can read the numbers. This is from a battery purchased within the last year or so.

Ken

THANK YOU Ken! That's awesome, I can read them perfectly. That's a big help and really appreciated.

I'll update the process as I go along. Here's a look at the first side wall, still a bit to go. I need to add the texture to the flat parts:


With the top, I wanted to make it so the caps can be painted separately and then added, and with the plugs, I wanted the ability to turn them in whatever direction I wanted before gluing them down. So I have studs on the top that will allow the caps/plugs to be positioned separately. This also helps in case there's an incident and the caps/plugs get damaged, they can be replaced.


The idea is that there will be a top cover, the four sides will be able to come together, and then a bottom tray. The sides will have a flange that allows them to slide into the bottom tray and the top cover will be able to slide over the sides as well. So everything will tightly fit together. The idea is that if the Optima fails, I can easily take it all apart to get it out without damaging anything, but also leaving the ability to glue it all if I wanted.

[Seth Swoboda]

This is intersting and when you get it figured out I'd be interested in purchasing one. Keep us posted.

As mentioned the easiest way would be for someone to send you an original case you could 3D scan.

[WarbirdPhotog]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

This is intersting and when you get it figured out I'd be interested in purchasing one. Keep us posted.

As mentioned the easiest way would be for someone to send you an original case you could 3D scan.

That would be the easiest way, but where's the fun in that? I'm going to head up to the EarlyFordParts store in San Dimas on Saturday. I'll see if they have one I can measure.

[fordv8j]

Something to think about; I just replaced the optima in my script case; cut the bottom out; had to cut the tabs off the bottom; when I got in the case the terminals barely reached thru the case; I sawed the ones off the old one, then drilled down thru them, drilled and tapped the new ones, then counter sank the bolt, and bolted on, then covered the bolt with J B weld, later I found out NAPA had the kit to change a side post battery to use regular cables, for about $8.00, they have terminals with studs in them; thay apparently put the optima in the case then then poured new terminals on, found lead on top of optima

[ford38v8]

When I built mine, I used an original Repop Ford LF battery. After neutralizing the acid with baking soda, I set it in the sun to melt the tar top, then scraped out the tar with a screwdriver to save for reassembly. The 3 individual script lead connectors were salvaged, as were the filler caps. The remnants of the top was removed, the internals gutted, and the bottom cut out. The new top was made from 1/16" ABS, with the 3 cells of 3/16' ABS welded on with ABS solvent. Holes to match the Optima were cut, lead connectors secured in place, the new top secured permanently in place with epoxy, with the salvaged tar reapplied. The new Optima gets it's hold down tabs trimmed and goes into the faux case from the bottom, the posts exit on top as original. Appearance is perfect, no Concourse Judge able to detect any difference from original.
A newer version of the Optima required smaller post holes in the top, which was accomplished by masking the larger holes with red and green felt acid neutralizer washers. If making one today, the post holes can be correctly sized, negating the need for the red and green acid washers.
The newest version of the Optima now requires a case 3/8' taller than a Ford LF. A simple 3/8' thick platform supports the faux battery, while the Optima projects down inside a hole in the platform. No such need for this platform with a Ford HF battery, as it fits the new Optima without additional heightening.
I cannot supply pictures of my converted battery as sadly, I have sold my Ford, and the Ford LF battery went with it.