Converting to Mechanical Brakes...

[halpeters]

I have a 1931 Model A Coupe, that was converted to hydraulic brakes approximately 30 years ago. It has what looks like a "pre 1968" Ford master cylinder (single circuit). I'm not sure what wheel cylinders yet....

I'm considering switching back to mechanical brakes - what would be a good source for backing plates, rods, and other miscellaneous original brake parts?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Hal

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by halpeters

I have a 1931 Model A Coupe, that was converted to hydraulic brakes approximately 30 years ago. It has what looks like a "pre 1968" Ford master cylinder (single circuit). I'm not sure what wheel cylinders yet....

I'm considering switching back to mechanical brakes - what would be a good source for backing plates, rods, and other miscellaneous original brake parts?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Hal

I don't imagine your project will be cheap. Maybe best to contact Randy Gross (714-292-8660) for complete rebuilt backing plates. You will still need all of the brakes rods and associated parts.

[Kurt in NJ]

Find someone that wants to downgrade to hydraulic brakes and swap.

[johnneilson]

Probably easier to sell the upgraded car and buy one with mech brakes
With the money left over you can fix the mechanical

J

[Mike Peters]

Three years ago, I converted an old, scary hydraulic brake setup on a 31 Slant window fordor back to mechanical brakes. It's a much safer car now.
It was a matter of rounding up backing plates, drums, rods, cross shaft, etc.. This stuff often turns up at swap meets.
Good luck. you are on the right track.

[Charlie Stephens]

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When I bought my '31 RDPU in 1972 it had been converted to hydraulic brakes. The conversion was so bad that I converted it back to mechanical brakes. If I had it to do over today I would just fix the conversion so it would be safe. Of course it really depends on how you plan to use the car.

Charlie Stephens

PS, Welcome to the Barn

[GPierce]

Bert’s probably has every thing you will need.

[CWPASADENA]

Where are you located? I am in Pasadena, Ca.
I have some of the stuff you need that I will give to you, but you would have to pick it up, I will not ship.

As stated before, Randy Gross is a good source for the rebuilt back plates and new drums.

Chris W.

[jeepguy1948]

Possibly if you explained why you want to make the switch we would know how to advise you.

[nkaminar]

What is your mechanical skill level and how willing are you to scrounge for parts at swap meets. What is your level of tools? Do you have sand blasting equipment and a paint booth? Are you willing to learn how to restore these parts? How deep are your pockets? How much time are you willing to spend? Based on where you sit on these questions you can make a decision to buy all new or professionally restored parts or do the work yourself.

[Bob Bidonde]

Install Flathead Ted's Brake Floater Kit. It makes a significant improvement in the Model A's mechanical brakes. The kit is available from "A" parts dealers.

[rotorwrench]

The common conversion parts were from 1939 through 1948 Fords. The style of backing plate changed fairly early on so a person needs to know the difference on those to be able to tell the differences in some parts but most of the early ford shoes and wheel cylinders are available in reproduction. Most cars used single acting master cylinders before the mid 60s and they will work but they lack the redundancy of the modern double acting components that have proportioning valves.

The best of the hydraulic set ups used the early Lincoln/Bendix design brake system. They have floating double acting shoes that make it a superior form of drum type brakes and the 12-inch drums are interchangeable with Ford.

On a light body model A that still has a very narrow tire traction patch width, this really affects the stopping capability regardless of the type of brakes. If you lock them up too easily then the car will just slide to a stop which may not be in a very straight line.

[halpeters]

I'm in Central Florida - I appreciate the offer.

[Kurt in NJ]

Look in the swap section—30-31 frame with front end and rear end no wheels

[stevemclark]

I completely rebuilt my brakes 5 years ago bought parts from Mikes they carry complete backing plates but not cheap. They have every thing else too.https://www.mikes-afordable.com/category/1039.html

[halpeters]

Originally Posted by jeepguy1948

Possibly if you explained why you want to make the switch we would know how to advise you.

The conversion is a "single" circuit master cylinder, mounted under the floor, and looks cobbled together. Would like to clean it up, and if putting a lot of work into it, might as well return to original, if I can find all the correct parts.

I am picking up the car in early October - it is a barn queen, and I need to get it back on the road.

[Charlie Stephens]

Someone makes a heavy duty battery box that mounts a brake master cylinder. You might look into it. Be sure to inquire here which supplier makes the heavy one as I have heard reports that some are too light weight.

Charlie Stephens

[eagle]

You can get a completely functional frame/chassis for a couple hundred bucks.

[halpeters]

I appreciate everyone’s thoughts - my next step is to get it running and road worthy,

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by halpeters

The conversion is a "single" circuit master cylinder, .

I would at least upgrade to a dual master cylinder. I think .gov required them around 1967-8. If you do that get one for a car that was drums front and rear. A majority are disc front and drum rear and the two types require different pressures and volumes.