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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Havertown, PA
Posts: 104
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I have rebuilt the distributor for my 29 Tudor. The information in the Les Andrew’s book states there should be 0.005 endplay in the shaft. The rebuild kits come with an 0.015 thick steel shim and an .045 thick fiber washer that is supposed to go on the bottom just above the coupling. The gap that I was left with after assembly was 0.034. I bought extra 0.015 thick steel washers and installed one at the top and another one just above the coupling at the bottom. I left out the fiber washer. The end play is now 0.002 (the steel washers measured 0.016). I am thinking I am Ok to use this as is but I would love to hear some other’s thoughts on this who have more experience with the Model A engine.
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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Probably ok but you could have run the fiber washer a few strokes over some sandpaper to decrease its thickness.
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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The end play, which allows vertical movement of the shaft, is not critical because of the height of the distributor cam. Also, the spring on the rotor contact puts a downward push on the shaft.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Havertown, PA
Posts: 104
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Thanks for the info. I was thinking that the distributor body would expand faster than the shaft (get hotter faster) and perhaps things might bind up or rub. Perhaps I will do the math and see what the temperature difference has to be to make the 0.002 go to zero and if that seems possible…. Thanks again for the help.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Havertown, PA
Posts: 104
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Ok, I ran the numbers and there needs to be 102DegF between the distributor body and the distributor shaft for things to bind up so I should be in good shape to use as is. Thanks everyone again for the help.
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#6 |
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Location: Oregon
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#7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Havertown, PA
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Not sure I stated things as clearly as I could have. If the iron distributor body heated by the engine head gets to be 102F hotter than the shaft then the 0.002 clearance will go to zero. The chance of that happening is really low. Really has not much to do with the outside temperature other than the rate at which things get hot with the engine on or cool down after the engine is turned off.
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,644
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
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So when I rebuilt the distributors I went snug, which should have been less snug. Bummer.
Guess the fiber washer gave me a little safety margin, and assembly lube would be a good idea. No returns yet. Guess that means no overheating going on. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
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Calcs are really not too difficult, I do them frequently when determining press fit dimensions.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Havertown, PA
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I would really like to know what the basis was for the 0.005 clearance speced in the Les Andrew’s book. Some Ford engineer calculated that almost 100 years ago and it would be good to know what was the basis. Just a curiosity???
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chillicothe, Missouri
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It may have been a commonly used clearance and no real thought put behind it at the time.
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"If I asked people what they wanted they would have said faster horses." -Henry Ford "Primitive technology is not a design flaw" 1928 Ford Model A Roadster Pickup 1930 Gordon Smith Air Compressor 1941 Willy's Pickup 1960 Thunderbird-For Sale 1964 Buick Riviera 2x4 425 1965 Pontiac GTO, 455 Super Duty 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10, V-10 Viper 1977 Charger Jet Boat,460 Ford,Jacuzzi Jet Front Engine Nostalgia Dragster,Supercharged 296 "Fullrace Flathead" Ford Engine Build up on DVD ask |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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