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#41 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,359
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#42 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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Use the plug sold for that application. The housing is unlikely to have been modified.
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#43 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,476
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Post #27 yes.
Are you a local model A chapter member? |
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#44 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Smoky Mountains
Posts: 73
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Thanks for all the help.
Yes the plug removal process went smoothly, following y'all's advice. Attached are some final pics for those who have messaged and posted. Yes I am in a club (a great one, with awesome resources), and I went to them first: 1) check with Ford Barn 2) email the MAFCA technical director 3) I am not sure 4) sounds like you got a great plan I had a set of NPT taps. I ran them in and boom! no resistance and no chips. Threads were fine. The Snyder's plug screwed right in with teflon tape. No leaks after running her for about 10 miles. Diastole in the Smokies
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A little learning is a dangerous thing. Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian Spring; There shallow draughts intoxicate the brain, and drinking largely sobers us again. |
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#45 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,476
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#46 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
Posts: 593
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#47 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,359
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The Judging Standards say unfinished or raven.
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#48 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: German/French border
Posts: 104
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Mine was screwed in so hard that almost nothing worked until I filed two edges off and it fit a hex ratchet with two good surfaces to get it out. Then bought a replacement from one of the usuals. Worked a charm. No idea why anyone would screw it in so tight except that...of course they all leak a few drops a week.
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