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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 7
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57 Fairlane Sunliner with 312, Ford 4-barrel, and auto trans runs very rough when accelerating, especially at low speed. Causes car to shake. Does not occur unless car is in gear. Installed new U-joints and rear trans mount (engine mounts appear OK). No improvement. Engine has always "ticked" on passenger side--worse when idle and cold. Non ethanol 91 used. Suggestions?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,725
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Could the transmission be slipping, not engaging properly?
Ticking noise on the passenger side... Have the pushrods and valves been checked & adjusted recently? See this link... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqG-Q_kVI3s . Last edited by dmsfrr; 08-08-2022 at 01:50 PM. Reason: add link |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A GALAXIE FAR, FAR AWAY
Posts: 7,386
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![]() - IMO - You need to diagnose the engine as to tune. What carb does it have and how long since any engine work.
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***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling) |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Midland Park, NJ
Posts: 4,290
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How about engine mounts ?
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48 Ford Conv 56 Tbird 54 Ford Victoria |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 7
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Thanks for the advice. Currently preparing to rebuild or replace the Carb (came from a 58 332/352).
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: elmira,ny
Posts: 1,568
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Quote:
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,725
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,818
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Sounds like misfire under load. Coil could be weak. It only takes 5,000 volts or less to fire a plug at idle, whereas it will take 25,000 or more volts to fire a plug under load. The plug wires could be bad and leaking some of that higher voltage needed under load. Could be a bad condenser. Someone could have put too small main jets in the carb, or float level could be too low. Jets or passages in the carb could be plugged. Point gap could be off. Fuel pump could be weak. Fuel filter or fuel lines could be partially plugged.
Do a thorough tune-up. Do not assume anything. Make a check list and mark off every item until it runs smooth. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,360
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It's hard for me to know what shaking means. Is it shaking in the steering wheel? Where does the shaking feel like it's coming from? How bad is this shake? Is it an actual shake, a vibration or an engine running bad. A ticking lifter is not going to cause a shake in the chassis. A video would helpful. Did it always have this shake, did it start after something was changed?
Under acceleration the engine could torque to one side enough to allow metal to metal contact between the engine and something, and you could feel a vibration. Like if you had tight fitting headers that move far enough to touch part of the chassis. Can you have somebody you trust, put it in gear, set the parking brake and hold the brakes on while you stand to the "side" and give it a little gas and see if that engine is moving enough to make contact with something. Don't' you dare walk in front of it during the test. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit suburb, MI
Posts: 3,794
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It sounds more like a weak ignition problem to me.
Sal |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,725
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When did the car last have a basic tune-up?
Re-set the points & timing, clean or replace the sparkplugs, etc... |
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Holland Mi
Posts: 705
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Always check the plugs first, look at the color, should be tan.
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#13 |
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Location: West Newton PA
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Midland Park, NJ
Posts: 4,290
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How about a bad vacuum hose or a disconnected vacuum hose? Check ll the hoses to make sure hey are in good condition. There are vacuum hoses under the dash.
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48 Ford Conv 56 Tbird 54 Ford Victoria |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Holland Mi
Posts: 705
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Any updates, we would like to know what you found
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#16 |
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You need to throw a vacuum gauge on it (IMO)
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***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling) |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 883
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I'm going with week spark. At idle the fire makers don't much care how hot the spark is, under load a week spark will cause multiple mis-fires.
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Bill, certified Ford nut. 2024 F-150 2018 Lincoln MKZ 2016 Focus 1961 Comet S-22 1956 Ford Crown Victoria 36 Chevy, 351C/FMX, 8", Mustang II |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A GALAXIE FAR, FAR AWAY
Posts: 7,386
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![]() ![]() - I Can Name That Tune In Ten Posts! -
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***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling) Last edited by KULTULZ; 02-04-2023 at 07:53 PM. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Holland Mi
Posts: 705
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HEY dude, whats up
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#20 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 7
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Update: not so good. Sent the carb (a 1958 Ford 4100) off for a rebuild. Installed when it came back. Engine very hard to start and when finally did, it coughed, sputtered, backfired and then died. I tested the fuel pump by removing a line and watching the flow--looked good. Tested one spark plug and it fired ok once per revolution. Plug was slightly sooty, probably from over rich carb before the rebuild. Multimeter test on coil (Pertronix Flamethrower 3.0 ohm) showed 3.5 ohms between primary contacts, and 78000 ohms between contact and output (is that bad? I don't know what it should be). Coil is getting the full 12V needed. Distributor cap looks clean and solid. Points have been replaced by a Pertronix Igniter module. I'm researching how to test this. Any advice is appreciated. Also, if I decide to replace the coil and/or igniter, does anyone have suggestions? Thanks again.
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