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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vail, Az.
Posts: 6
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Another " whats it worth" Thread...
Sorry about that. But at least its not disguised Spam for a Classifieds Ad ( its not in the Classifieds), and I'm not invoved in the sale of this Truck. It belongs to a lady in my neigbourhood, her late husband used to drive it around but it has been sitting unused for about 3 years. It comes with some extra parts, like a spare engine, has a title, and the body seems really nice. She got an offer from somebody that called it a 1942 Model T ( ![]() But she had the feeling that might be a lowball offer... And I have no idea what a stock truck like that would be worth. Thanks guys... 12B 043.jpg 12B 044.jpg 12B 045.jpg 12B 046.jpg 12B 047.jpg 12B 048.jpg 12B 049.jpg |
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#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vail, Az.
Posts: 6
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Looking at my post I realise I havent posted on the Fordbarn before.
I'm Alex. I usually hang out on the HAMB and the Dogfight Forum, and mostly read on Ryan's other sites. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 2,962
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Looks to be a 1931 AA judging by the dished firewall. Where is it located?
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? ![]() |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,489
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Late '31 Steel top, looks like a decent start to a restoration project or with a little work, drive it as it is.
-Tim |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vail, Az.
Posts: 6
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Thanks for the replies.
The Truck is in Vail, just east of Tucson, Az. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sarasota Florida
Posts: 606
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I like it. If I had to guess $4,500.00 to $6,500.00
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vail, Az.
Posts: 6
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I looked under the truck, and the sheetmetal seemed really nice.
I can go back and take some more detailed pics of known troublespots, If you guys tell me what areas to look at. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: H.B. California
Posts: 451
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guess low .
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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![]() ![]() We're not guessing or buying, but just trying to establish a fair price for the lady that wants to sell her husband's truck. ![]() I was at a large junk yard in New London, MN. about 25 years ago and saw the most beautiful 1929 1 1/2 ton Chevy truck with original cab and upholstery and a completely restored undercarriage. I asked the yard owner why the truck was there and he said the owner had died and the wife said come and haul it away. Sure is too bad someone didn't give her some good advice. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Takoma park md
Posts: 271
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looks like a 7-10k truck normal for an older restored AA
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Rust and roll will never die |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Owls Head
Posts: 257
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I agree with Tom, 4000 - 5000+ would be fair to seller and buyer. There are alot of hidden variables that would come into play if it was more - new driveline/ mechanicals, cherry sheetmetal, new tires, perfect rims etc.
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Driving old Fords since 1947 |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 64
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Looks pretty good to me. I would guess $4,999-$6,999.25. JTW has some very good points. Also the high speed verses low speed rear could factor in. Does the spare engine go with it?
You might want to try asking on this site. http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewforum.php?f=6
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Rear fenders and running boards for 1932 131" single wheel Express Body needed. Last edited by Tom H.; 04-08-2011 at 09:39 PM. Reason: more info |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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To me, the body looks pristine, and it's a steel top/indented. Body alone to a rodder OR a restorer, an easy 6k+. Then thjere's the rest of it to sell off. JMO
Paul in CT |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nanaimo BC
Posts: 242
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I agree with Tom W, it is a shame to see people get ripped off when they aren't up to speed with the value of items they are left with. Don't get me started on "pickers" and their so called "profession". Great looking AA though, a very desirable truck with the all the late 31 features and in excellent shape, easy 5k all day long.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sf bay area
Posts: 1,464
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Ask the Widow what she wants for it then add another $500. she will be happy and so will you if the price is right for leeway to restore....good luck
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#17 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vail, Az.
Posts: 6
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![]() Quote:
I just want to help her with some info. ( I'd hope somebody would do the same for my wife if I'd happen to kick the bucket, and leave her with a yard full of vintage iron...) Thanks for the Info guys... |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: santa cruz, calif
Posts: 2,011
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areas to check:
the lower bead on the cowl sides, the bead around the bottom back of the cab. These areas get rusted through often. Its possible it was bondo'ed up and painted. Use a magnet to check for bondo. Check the windshield frame for rust though. Body work is expensive. AA fenders get really beat up. check the bead for repaired cracks, look underneath for welds, gussets of farm scrap steel, deep dings that are filled on top with bondo. The engine compartment is probably a more reliable indicator of the true condition of the truck, as is the underside. Look closely for rust through underneath, cracked motor mounts. Check the engine closely for knocks, even compression in each cylinder, rear main oil leaks, good cooling (drive it up hill ). On AA's, the cupped short shaft can be worn. Listen for a clunk at the back of the transmission when you go from reverse to forward. The rear spring pivots were hardly ever greased and the brass bushings were very thin. Expect to have to repair them. If the outer washer looks off center from the pivot, the pivot is probably worn. Check the front spring shackles to see if they're worn through the hangers or bent from heavy loads. It is a late 31. check the brake drums to see if they're cast iron (a plus). the indicator is a square lug on the outside edge of the drum where it rides next to the backing plate. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 100
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I'd have to agree with most of the above posts about a reasonable price - somewhere in the $4,000 to 6,000 range, maybe a little more depending on the particulars. And Pat in Santa Cruz gives some great advice about what to look for in AA's. The cab appears to be a steel-roofed cab, which can add somewhat to the overall value as these cabs, produced by the Budd company in late 1931, are a bit harder to find that your run of the mill 1931 cabs.
Glad you're willing to help this lady out. I think the guy who offered her $2,000 absolutely was lowballing her. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Shelton, CT
Posts: 339
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I bought the same style late 31 AA, but it was in much, much worse shape. The entire bottom 8" of the cab, including all sub frame rails need to be replaced, but it did run well. I paid $2500 over 10 years ago.
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