*37 Pickup Door Latch Problem*

[zippi]

Ok guys....I'm seeking help from the experts. I am trying to make one good door latch from two that I have. The two square holes in my old door latch were rounded off. The two square holes in the other latch that I have are really good. Here is my problem, the square shaft from the door handle goes through the latch from the side show in the pics. The square holes that you see are stationary and the one on the back side rotates. When I turn the door handle it will only move as far as the slop that is in the square hole shown. How do you get the full ranch of motion out of the door handle when your putting a square peg in a square hole??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[zippi]

I was looking at some other door handles and I noticed a grove cut into the square shaft on the handle. I'm thinking now that maybe mine needs a grove cut in the square shaft so it will rotate in the first square hole and only fit the back square hole to allow the full range of motion.

[JSeery]

Yes, it needs the open space. This is the best photo I can find at the moment. New shafts have to have the open space added to them. The cut has to be made in the proper location for your installation, that is why they are sold uncut.

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by zippi

I was looking at some other door handles and I noticed a grove cut into the square shaft on the handle. I'm thinking now that maybe mine needs a grove cut in the square shaft so it will rotate in the first square hole and only fit the back square hole to allow the full range of motion.

Yes there is a cut but I would have thought that if you have the correct ones [and that plate looks the same as my 35 one] replacement or original they should have the cut already in the handles.

[JSeery]

Nope, a lot (if not all?) of the replacements have to be cut to fit.

[zippi]

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Thanks for the input guys. This was driving me crazy. Going out now and take the edge of a flat file and cut the grove.

[zippi]

Just finished tearing apart two door latches that I had to make one good one. #1, #2, & #3 in the pics where removed, cleaned, greased, and reworked to make a good door latch that is now installed on my 37 and working just great. I had to make a grove in the square shaft of the new door handle which was easily done on the bench grinder. This grove allows the door handle shaft to rotate in the first square opening it passes through. The arrow points to the part of the latch assembly that someone had cut off with a torch. I have no reason why they would have done that but I'm now a happy camper now with the end results. Thanks for the help guys.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Nope, a lot (if not all?) of the replacements have to be cut to fit.

Ford would use the same outside handle detail and then vary the length of the shaft and groove location(s) for different years, body styles, or front or rear or back doors. So the manufacturers early on decided to make a "universal" length (and included notes with the handles to explain... which got lost when the companies sold).

[Talkwrench]

Did you tack weld the tabs when you bent them back? Unfortunately I had to disassemble twice and they didnt last the second time bending so I had to tack. Mine cracked at the right angle [where the tongue goes through] separating the two.

[zippi]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Did you tack weld the tabs when you bent them back? Unfortunately I had to disassemble twice and they didnt last the second time bending so I had to tack. Mine cracked at the right angle [where the tongue goes through] separating the two.

I did not tack weld the tabs. Everything seemed nice and tight and looked good. We'll see how it goes.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Did you tack weld the tabs when you bent them back? Unfortunately I had to disassemble twice and they didnt last the second time bending so I had to tack. Mine cracked at the right angle [where the tongue goes through] separating the two.

What I have done is to heat the tabs red hot before unfolding, then before re-installing heat and hammer anneal. That seems to keep them from breaking.

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

What I have done is to heat the tabs red hot before unfolding, then before re-installing heat and hammer anneal. That seems to keep them from breaking.

Good tip Karl !