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#21 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
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1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons! |
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#22 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Mr. Eagle's reply #12 still has tons of merit in that if we had a universal mechanical sound vocabulary that exactly describes the onomatopoeia, many could describe exactly what they hear where this problem could be narrowed as to exactly what needs investigation.
Many of all of us have experienced that Model A engine noises are similar to different musical notes on instruments in that after a few years we become familiar with these many unique different Model A noises such as: 1. "Thump, Thump, Thump", similar to a low note on a bass guitar; or, 2. a much higher note of a "ping, Ping. Ping", similar to striking strings behind the bridge of a mandolin; or, 3. a "Click, Click, Click", similar to similar to hitting (2) hardwood drum sticks together; or, 4. any combination of different sounds with or without a rattling effect, or having a certain rhythm with different intonations. 5. After a few years many Model A owner's ears become familiar with this Model A music. It is often beneficial to have a neighborhood, experienced Model A mechanic neighbor to listen to what combinations of sounds are eminent in order to "quickly" determine exactly what needs investigation. Then one has to be careful that some neighbors cannot tell the difference between a Waltz and a Two-step; and worse yet, cannot even dance. LOL Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 01-10-2017 at 08:35 AM. Reason: typo |
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#23 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 21
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One last note. About timing. I've always used an ohm meter on hot rods, race cars and family sedans. Regardless of point gap, dwell, worn distributor or whatever. The moment those points open the coil discharges and we have fire. I've checked this a couple of times. Now I'll ask a dumb newbie question. Could the cam gear somehow be off? Is there another easy way to check for TDC?
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#24 |
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Remove all (4) plugs & rotate engine CW & CCW while looking in spark plug hole no. 1 with a flashlight, and later describe the location of the piston when the timing pin slips in.
If TDC, check timing of the firing of spark plug no. 1 per reply 11. If timing is OK, time to look somewhere else. |
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#25 |
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Location: Prescott, AZ
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H. L. Chauvin - I've thought a lot about recording the sound and posting it here if that's possible. I've had 3 folks listen to the noise in the last week. One is a model A owner since the '60s. No Joy! Today it's off to the locale Antique Club. If I drive at 1/2 throttle and 1/2 advanced there's no noise so I think it will be OK. Someone asked when the noise started. I've only owned the A for a couple of months. When it rolled off the transport it needed brakes so I didn't drive it much. The first time I really drove around the noise was there. That's when I started checking points, timing and buying coils and distributor parts.
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At times it is far better NOT TO KNOW one thing that is false than to KNOW 100 things that are true. ![]() Last edited by AzRay; 01-11-2017 at 08:16 AM. |
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#26 | |
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"There are some that can destroy an anvil with a teaspoon and shouldn't be allowed to touch anything resembling a tool." |
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#27 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 21
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OK - One last thought before shutting down the computer. I added my favorite 'signature' to my last couple of posts. Having done that I'm thinking maybe I KNOW something that's false. Maybe it's not a spark snap and I should open my mind more to all the other suggestions I've heard here. After all, that's why I'm here in the first place. So -- off to work on the A and check everything and order a carb rebuild kit. Thanks again to all.
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#28 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
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What carb is on it??? Having flow tested jets installed in the Zenith makes a world of difference... renners corner sells them, as the jet sets from all the suppliers are way off ..
i would never rebuild a carb without putting them in... another common issue on a carb rebuild is Slop at the throttle shaft.. it needs to be tight, the suppliers sell an oversize shaft to correct that...(very easy to do with a drill bit) I have rebuilt an unknown amount of modern day carbs using the same jets with no issues.. when i first got into model A's i was rebuilding the carbs with the old jets or supplier jets VS getting flow tested ones i couldnt believe the difference... These carbs need to be very precise as simple as they are. When set up and rebuilt properly they run great and look proper. Many have gone to other style carbs because they could not master the proper techniques to rebuilding the zenith. Just my experiences http://www.modela.org/ A good site for reference. Last edited by Mitch//pa; 01-10-2017 at 10:19 AM. |
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#29 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Every large mechanic shop has at least one miracle mechanic guy.
After everything on a problem vehicle has been changed from bumper to bumper, and everybody gave up, they go to ask this one guy. He starts the engine, moves the throttle, listens, moves a few other things, listens, and this engine is speaking a very unique foreign language that nobody else in the shop understands. Then he tells them what to check; but they all disagree because they checked this item 10 times with delicate instruments following the "Cook Book" method. But he checks it in a different way and the problem is resolved. That is why most people cannot cook fluffy rice ..... they follow a recipe of (2) cups of water to (1) cup of rice that has been written on every rice package a million times and they wind up with a sticky, wet mush. Like the miracle mechanic guy, sometimes it is time to cautiously observe what is actually happening, switch gears, and time to begin experimenting, and altering this written rice recipe. |
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#30 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
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#31 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midland Park,N.J.
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could it possibly be a spark jumping from the plug to the rod that goes to the distibutor?
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#32 |
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Location: Tacoma, WA
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#33 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Worcester, MA
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I just had a very similar noise appear. Turns out, the firewall was cracked behind the bracket which holds radiator support rod. Sounded exactly like "the snap" of electricity going to ground. Drove me crazy until I found it by accident. For what it's worth........
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#34 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 21
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Today I drove the A to our Antique Car Club here in Prescott. We have that model A 'miracle mechanic guy' that H. L. Chauvin mentioned. We took the A out and headed to the closest hill. (Thumb Butte) My A did what I knew it would do and started the snapping noise as soon at it warmed up and put under a load. At TDC no noise. Half advanced, noise is noticeable. Full advance very loud. And like I knew it would. Once back at the club not a sound! :-( Once back we tried putting under a load by hold the brake and slowly engaging the clutch. Not a sound. Our 'miracle mechanic guy' was stumped. Agreed it sounded like a 'spark snap' but couldn't see any reason. I'm going to rebuild the Zenith carb, try looking at everything some "Ford Barn" members have suggested and keep reading this thread to see if maybe someone has another idea.
Thanks to all! Once again I'll keep you all in the loop. Ray
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At times it is far better NOT TO KNOW one thing that is false than to KNOW 100 things that are true. ![]() Last edited by AzRay; 01-11-2017 at 08:15 AM. |
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#35 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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If you have a leaking exhaust gasket, try squirting some oil into the carb, and the smoke should show through the leak. A leaking exhaust can make some strange sounds.
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#36 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Aiken, South Carolina
Posts: 697
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I had a bad plug that behaved that way, would run current down the side and "snap" on the block. I finally found it running in the dark-no questions then, you can sure see it. Bad plug. Just my experience. Maybe a defective porcelain or something, i.e. crack.
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#37 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Hi Ray,
1. It is quite clear that you "repeatedly" reported that the sound "only" occurs when your spark handle is moved "downwards" when climbing a hill. 2. The spark rod is moved closer to the steering shaft when spark lever is pulled downwards ....... with engine vibrations, could you have a spark rod slapping on the steering column or something else when pulled downwards on an incline? 3. If not, moving the spark lever downwards, & thus advancing the top distributor plate "appears" to be causing something to make the noise. 4. If I were in your shoes, I would not hesitate to try Reply No. 24 in no less than 5 minutes; and next, Reply No. 11 with plugs already out in an additional 3 minutes, to actually "see" what is happening with timing ..... all in no more than 8 minutes. 5. In my humble opinion ....... making mechanical corrections for any type of "unseen" used car problem ......... rather actually "seeing" the actual problems ....... makes about as much sense as a Doctor-In-Training trying to perform a colonoscopy on a patient who claims to experience a mild tooth ache ...... seems so much easier to just open his mouth. Please let us know and do not give up. |
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#38 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Aiken, South Carolina
Posts: 697
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In any event, please let this forum know your solution once you find it. By definition, without anyone on this forum actually BEING there, these are guesses (with lots of other stuff thrown in, of course).
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#39 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,430
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This thread brings back memories of a thread a few years back. That thread was "knock in third gear" after pulling his engine,transmission,checking clutch,and many pages here of helpful tips and trick. He pulled his rearend and found that his pinion nuts where loose, his noise was up front near the flywheel area! So keep at it and you will find the ticking noise!
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#40 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
Posts: 2,411
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Boy, isn't that the truth!!! Sharpening a knife or in my case, a slicer blade, is another example. It's not just following a formula, but using some brain power, and common sense.
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