|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Posts: 357
|
![]()
I am going to be replacing this harness. I have looked at the Andrews book and although it identifies the color coding of each wire in the loom, it really does not give instructions as to how to best replace the entire loom. I have never had to do this before, so i am just wanting some pointers as to how to best proceed. (I am currently fighting off an eye infection, so please don't' refer me to anything to read. Even this is a challenge at the moment).
1. In routing the loom from the terminal box on through the fire wall and up to the instrument panel, does it require that the terminal box to be removed? 2. Is the loom easier to route by insertion through the fire wall from the instrument side or from the terminal side? 3. Should the ignition switch and ammeter lugs be hooked up at the loom before it is inserted or should the spade terminals be connected first? On my driver's side of the terminal box posts, there was a broken spade connector. I have no idea as to what the previous owner had connected there though, so i'll be removing that broken spade connector when I get onto this project. That hood seem to be in my way a bit where it attaches to the firewall, but I hope this task does not require removal of it. Any rate, I understand the color coding to get that correct, but was trying to make sure I didn't start pulling wires and such before i knew just how to best go about it. Unfortunately, this task may have to be put off for a bit, as that eye infection really has me sort of screwed up at the moment. Thanks for any tips or recommendations/advise. Like say, I have never had to do this task before, but the previous owner of my truck failed to wrap the ends of the horn and simply tossed them inside the engine bay, Of course they touched some metal there and burned up the wiring right on up to the ammeter. The wire seemed too brittle and too risky to not replace. Last edited by coupe1942; 10-01-2016 at 09:37 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 252
|
![]()
If you have not already purchased a harness you should contact tyree harris he makes a harness that will do exactly what your car needs.
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
|
![]()
BEFORE you start, dis-connect the battery !!
Paul in CT |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
|
![]()
The replacement harness from brattons I just purchased was made correctly, no problems
1. No 2. There is an opening at the end of the tunnel under the tank at the junction box so it can be fished either way. 3. I hook up the junction box ends first then pull it taunt for the dash side connections 4. The hood can stay on Your color coding is correct Make sure your ammeter was not smoked Last edited by Mitch//pa; 10-01-2016 at 08:12 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Posts: 357
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
The ammeter is a new one replacing the old. The battery is disconnected. I'll be getting onto this project soon, but not until my problem with my right eye is corrected. That antibiotic grease gunk in it really makes seeing difficult at present. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Posts: 357
|
![]()
I did remove the old loom and wires tonight. They were pretty brittle and burned, so replacement is in order for them. Not sure when I'll get the new part in place, but it seems pretty straight forward, so far.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions. I picked up a Coast headband lamp at WalMart and I really like how bright it makes things inside my black cab for doing projects as this. Makes the focus on the project so very much easier to do and is not as cumbersome as my shop light with it's cord dangling in the way. The package says 200 lumens, but the info at their site says 210 lumens. They actually make a brighter one, too, but this is plenty bright for me and my vision. When done I just hand it on my outside pickup mirror and it is ready for the next use. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
|
![]()
Coupe,
Pay close attention to Mitch, he just did his a short while back & can "WALK" you through the job! He's REALLY good at explaining HOW to do it, step by step. BUMMER, about your eye problem, I like your light goody idea! Mitchs' Dad
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
|
![]()
Coupe 1942 That looks like a nice headlight is it rechargeable or just Battery powered? I am going to purchase one also. Thanks for the post. Good luck with your wiring!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lindenhurst, IL
Posts: 793
|
![]()
FYI, just because the ammeter is new doesn't make it usable. I've seen loose connections at the terminals and poor assembly of the shunt.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Posts: 357
|
![]()
It has a pack to the rear of it that contains 3 AAA batteries in it and the cover is a rubberized that slips off for ease of battery change. I believe I found it in the hunting department and not the auto department at WalMart. Also, the store only had one type offered, but the online store offers more choices and even higher lumens to them. The light is foldable so you can easily angle it as necessary. Some may find it a bit heavy, but I am used to wearing a motorcycle helmet, so it is just fine for me as to weight.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Posts: 357
|
![]()
Yes, but i won't know that for sure until everything is back in place and properly hooked up to test. We shall see when it is time.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Mills, WI
Posts: 261
|
![]()
'short while back', pun intended? May also be a good time to install a fuse assembly at the starter
__________________
Always one bad decision away from a good time. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lindenhurst, IL
Posts: 793
|
![]() Quote:
Now I physically inspect them before replacement. The hardest part is popping off the bezel then the disassembly is straight forward. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ada, Oklahoma
Posts: 357
|
![]()
I already did a different post a while back regarding removal of the backing bezel to my ammeter. Have already done that and lubricated such as was advised in that thread.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|