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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Pottstown, PA
Posts: 342
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Hi folks, I've been trying to figure out why my lower 2 screws on the instrument panel are far away from lining up with the nuts on the gas tank.
The instrument panel is a re-pop piece, probably from the late 70's or early 80's. The car is a 31 deluxe Roadster. Instrument panel is for a round speedo. The nuts on the gas tank are probably 1/2" away from the holes in the instrument panel. You can look in the instrument panel lower mounting holes and see the nuts pretty well lined up, just 1/2" away. I was thinking of trying longer screws to just get things to catch - but got to wondering what might be wrong. Initially thought it was the instrument panel, but not sure how you could move things up a half inch without distorting the shape of the instrument panel. So now I am thinking something ain't quite right about the mounts on the gas tank, though it does not appear to have been altered. Currently I simply do not use the lower screws. However, does anyone have any clues as to what might be amiss? Thanks. |
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#2 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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Many of the repop panels were made wrong which caused this lower retaining screw issue
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 611
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I am not sure how much better they are fitting now, I use an original one now, but back in the 70-80's the fit of a repro was exactly as you have described yours.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Pottstown, PA
Posts: 342
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Thanks guys.
Glad to know it is probably not the tank! Now to find an instrument panel....... |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,211
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Quote:
I've also seen some on the Swap Meet lately.
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 1,377
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Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
__________________
Nothing can be made foolproof, ---- fools are ingenious bastards. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Pottstown, PA
Posts: 342
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Didn't know about Don, but had heard that Dan Bixby was a possible source. Shot an email to Dan - if out of luck I will follow up with Don.
Dang - keep forgetting about the Swap Meet. Thanks |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,211
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Do a search -- 62 posts in the swap meet, (although I'm sure some are duplicates though)
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I can usually use both top screws and the lower left screw on the repro panel, but never could understand why they didn't make the holes in the right location. Even worse, it's been a know problem for a long time, so why haven't they fixed it yet? Or are they trying to sell a large run of wrong parts?
I had two originals replated for my own use. |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Georgetown, Texas
Posts: 18
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Try Bert's in Denver for original stuff.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Washington Cty., ME or Flagler Cty., FL
Posts: 1,223
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I remember having trouble getting the lower screws to go into the nuts on the tank. Try putting these lower two screws in first, you might not even have the instrument panel up flush with the tank yet. With the screws started then push the instrument panel into place and insert the top two screws. Ed
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Pottstown, PA
Posts: 342
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Wanted to thank everyone for their contribution.
Wife wants the car original and show quality - so we are going with Don's offer. Of course I am not quite sure if she realizes tomato red was not an original color! |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,211
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You won't go wrong with one of Don Turley's magnificent restorations.
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,722
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Find a nice original, replate it and use it then the holes will match up!
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1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,997
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Yes don't try to 'force it' with longer screws. Better to trash the repop panel and buy an original that will fit properly, than mess up the mounting holes in your gas tank
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#16 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
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If you paint it Tomato red don't worry about the other parts. The overall value and the originality have already been destroyed. For the sake of your car, keep her in the kitchen! Wayne
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Eureka, California
Posts: 1,733
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I have always used only original instrument panels. I have always had difficulty in fitting one of the lower screws into the gas tank's retaining nuts. So some care and perseverance may be required, even with an original.
"Mileage may vary by model, year, tires, air temp, altitude, gas type, tax bracket, etc." |
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#18 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
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use a tapered reamer and enlarge the holes slightly.
then start the 2 uppers just to position it a bit; do not tighten them then you should be able to start the 2 lowers. then you should be able to turn them home. we do this all the time
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'31 180A |
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