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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Randburg, Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 225
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Good day folks,
I have a problem on my 'A' where the aluminium fan won't come off the water pump shaft. I need it off to check why there is play on the shaft. Any ideas how I can get it off without damaging the fan? I have tried gently levering it, I have tried tapping with a small hammer and punch, but it just won't budge. Regards Mike Johannesburg, South Africa |
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#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 26
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Heat Fan.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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Heat it as theozon says and/or put a nut on the threads, hold the assembly by the fan and strike the nut hard with a large hammer. the nut should be flush with the end of the shaft and not tight against the fan. I usually use a brass drift to strike it as it is easier to get a straight shot at it.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Hi Mike,
If during assembly, your hard steel half-moon key was not able to rotate back and forth, (fore & aft), in the steel shaft's half-moon's slot, your key may be tilted forward where the rear sharp edge is slightly lifted and digging into the aluminum fan slotted keyway. If so, force is required ....... several lighter taps, (like that of taps of an impact wrench), is far better than one big giant squash like that of a 700 pound gorilla hitting it with a 100 pound maul. (Figuratively speaking? LOL) The looseness & play in the shaft can be caused by the sharp edges of the hard steel fan nut wearing off the softer powder coating finish on the front of the fan. (Happened to mine). If so, with a Dremel tool, always remove this soft powder coating down under the nut to shiny aluminum, provide a flat, "thin" steel washer, and re-tighten fan nut until no shaking is noticed. After removal, (if the key was tight), to avoid a repeated difficult disassembly, "lightly" file sides of half-moon key so it can easily rotate in the shaft. Hope this also helps others who have "loose" powder coated aluminum fans |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sonoma, CA.
Posts: 1,568
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The parts suppliers have a knock off tool just for the purpose of taking the fan blade off.
I got mine from snyders |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Upstate in NY's beautifull hills
Posts: 173
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Since we have a keyed shaft & hub , wouldn't a light coat of anti seize lubricant prevent further problems upon reassembly ? If you've ever done any house wiring using aluminum wire , there is a anti oxidation coating just for this problem . I believe brake pad lube is also applicable . |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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You can make a knock off tool. Go to the local hardware store and purchase a bolt about two inches long that has the same threads as the pump shaft. Also buy two nuts that will screw onto the bolt.
Screw one nut onto the bolt the other onto the pump shaft. Position the nut on the shaft so half of it is on the shaft. Screw the bolt into the other half until it is tight against the shaft. Run the nut on the bolt down against the other nut and tighten it. Hold the assembly by the fan and snack the end of the bolt a number of times with a hammer until the fan comes loose from the pump shaft. Tom Endy |
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#8 | |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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"Maybe" someone put Loctite on the taper??? I put it on Minevas' & almost NEVER got it off!
Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,044
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Heat as suggested in post #2 would take care of that too. Loctite lets go at about 180 degrees. By then, the Al fan should have expended enough to let it come off.
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I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. Even at my age, I still like to look at a young, attractive woman but I can't really remember why. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Ontario California
Posts: 104
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Rather than ruining the Castellated nut. I've used one of the King Pin nuts. Same thread and it's a cap nut.
Richard |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wauconda, IL
Posts: 3,604
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NO NO NO!!!!
Use a knock off tool OR run 2 nuts on the water pump shaft and use a NO BOUNCE hammer to get it off.. do it the right way.
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A7191-Sport Coupe 29 Roadster 29-Town Sedan 29-Original Special Coupe |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: michigan
Posts: 1,138
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I agree just spend 2 dollars on a knock off tool
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Epping N.H.
Posts: 3,423
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Use an old head stud.Screw an old head nut on halfway,then screw the stud into it.That way the pounding is going from the stud to the shaft,with no pressure on the threads.The nut is just holding things in line.Hold the fan hub in your fingers with the water pump hanging down,then whack the stud with a 3 pound hammer.Assemble after clean and dry.Tapers use nothing on them.You will be shocked at what never-seize will do to aluminum when sandwiched against steel.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 510
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Keith,
what will never-seize do with aluminum/ steel contact? What is the problem? |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I've removed them the same way Tom and Keith have said. On the rear axle the taper does a hard job driving the wheel, but on the water pump I wouldn't think anti-seize would hurt and would help during removal, since the key will drive the fan. Recheck the nut tightness after the aluminum fan has been in use for several hours, just as you should recheck lug nuts on aluminum wheels.
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Randburg, Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 225
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Okay gents,
Report-back time. Thanks everyone for the great advice. I used the head stud and nut contraption, and it worked like a charm! Now, one further question, I have the packing ready to put into the packing housing. My question is this: there are two rings in the packet, do I use both of them? Mike |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,432
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Tom Wesenberg says to use oil on packing, put one in tighten the nut,back off nut install the second packing.
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I clean out any old packing and use grease smeared on new lead packing rings.
Don't use string or graphite string, which is meant for non spinning shafts, like a faucet handle. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
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Also a thin ss flat washer should go under the castlllated nut at reassembly.
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