31 slant window 4 dr rusted rear wheel well

[JohnB15632]

This is a better picture of the rear wheel well. I have a better support under the body. I agree with tmiller6 that the rail is missing. I know that I should replace the rail first.

Before I start anything, I am trying to gain that most information possible before diving in where I have no idea what I am doing.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

In my opinion, you should approach this just as if we were working on some one-off 1931 Sphinx Sedan in which it was the only surviving example left. Here is how I would accomplish this task on your car;

Start by making detailed drawings of the entire panel on paper (actual size) detailing every bend, bump, seam, rivet, etc. In areas such as the reliefs for shock arms, or the quarter windows above, you need detailed depths & shapes measurements. You need to figure radius' by using radius gauges and round objects such as coins or washers as the gauge.

Next you need to mount the fenders, rear apron, etc. the best you can so the quarter panel in the correct location and then fabricate & weld-in braces to hold the quarter panel firmly. EMT conduit works well for this, so run lengths to different areas of the body & subrails on the opposite side of the body. Multiple bars that are triangulated with be great.

Then it is time to remove the damaged area only in one or two pieces to preserve your pattern. At that time, you need to carefully media blast at minimum, all areas where you will be welding.

Now you will take a large (oversized) piece of 19 gauge sheetmetal and using your pattern, layout each of the details transferring info from your paper. Start by using a hammer to stretch metal for your reliefs. Next planishing the metal smooth and begin checking your radius'. The planishing can be done with nothing more than dollies and hammers. Please understand that this is a slow, repetitious process for a skilled craftsman, ...and even a slower task for a novice. To put things into a perspective for you, a skilled person with equipment such as a Pullmax, a pneumatic planishing hammer, shrinker/stretcher, and misc. sheetmetal tools would like have 24-30 hours of time properly fabricating and installing those panels correctly where they look authentic and are nearly indistinguishable from the rest of the panel. Again, as I stated above, use this as a catalyst to learn a new skill. You will likely make a few mistakes and get discouraged along the way, but it will be rewarding for you if you persevere.

[JohnB15632]

Thank you for you help!! Time is something, at the moment anyway, that I have.

[Brentwood Bob]

What are you hanging the body from, and will it support additional stress from reworking the rear of the body?
Saw horses under the 4x4 are a second line of defense to having it fall on you.
Take this question as constructive. Thinking safety is best before catastrophe.

[burner31]

Sorry I don't have anything closer and more detailed.
If you need I can can try to get some close ups for you, I have the fenders on now but I can get the camera in there...if it would help you.
Let me know and I'll do my best to get you some pics of what it should look like.

[JohnB15632]

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The body is hanging from beams that I installed when I built the garage. The beams to two 2 X 8. I hooks screw into the beams. Chains support the 4 x 4's.

Thank you for your concern. I believe in safety first also. Saw houses take up too much room.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

John, if you are struggling with fabricating these, since you are close to Flop, why not get some assistance from him?

[Flop]

Thanks for the recommendation Brent ! As Brent said that's a pretty complex piece for a first timer to metal work with minimal experience and tools. If you need a hand I am in Pittsburgh and can get the piece made up and any other pieces you are not comfortable with ! Feel free to email or call . [email protected] or 412 867 1659