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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,027
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I did lots of research and it appears there are two schools of thought regarding setting the float in an original Stromberg 97. One is the "dry" method where the float is set level with the carb body or by using a measurement from the top of the float. The other is the "wet" method and here, the fuel level in the carb is measured (not the float) while the engine is running.
It seems to me that the fuel level is the critical factor so I am attempting to do that. Because I have installed an electric fuel pump, I am able to measure the fuel level by removing the air horn of the car and simply turning on the electric fuel pump without the car running. My question: Could not find a tool in my local parts stores so I have made a "miniature" L- square out of the card stock of a legal pad and have marked the recommended fuel level of 15/32's. My problem is, when I place the "tool" in the fuel bowl, I get en inaccurate reading because of the "surface tension" effect of a liquid next to a solid . The liquid rides up the carb wall and up the tool surface. How can I compensate for this? Sorry for the length of this post and thank you for your reply. Last edited by 39topless; 06-16-2015 at 12:22 AM. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,394
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The level is not as "critical" as you may think. Thousands of 97's have been set by repair men using the dry method. If you have your heart set on the wet method how about something like the photo below. The Meniscus Effect is something you have to live with using the wet method.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ft Mohave,Az
Posts: 2,011
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Very simple to place a straight edge over the top walls(from one side to the other or catty corner) of the carb & measure down to the top of the fuel without touching it.
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#4 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia
Posts: 2,204
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I use the method B-O-B mentioned and I use a syringe to remove fuel and allow bowl to refill, several times, to get a good feel for the sealing at the seat and the fuel level.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,027
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It's all so simple after someone "splains" it. Thanks.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Clarkston MI
Posts: 830
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__________________
35 Ford Cabriolet 56 Chevy Pickup 63 VW Bug Empty wallet |
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,027
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Quote:
Thanks for the input. Phil |
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#8 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Wouldn't that be 2/16 = 1/8?
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC Utah
Posts: 810
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I think this whole deal has been overthunk.
Set 'em dry and forget 'em. With 15 out of 16 of the ones I've seen, the floats are usually dented in the bottom, from slamming into the cast-in stop. To compensate for the dent - and the volume of fuel in the bowl - I always set the floats slightly lower than level... Measure down 9/32" (a fat 1/4") from the gasket surface to the far edge of the top of the free end of the float, just next to the hump. Remember that too high a fuel level will have the same effect as larger jets. It's also a good idea to nip a bit off the tang, so it doesn't hit before it should.
__________________
RIP Tyler... My Son, Helper & Best Friend. Feb '78 to Father's Day '10. www.97-express.com ~ [email protected] |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,027
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,027
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Got the floats set in my two carbs using a "tool" like TERRY OH suggested for the "wet" method and also employed a little of the "dry" method as per Maxx. Thanks to all. It now runs much better. Starts easier and has good immediate response to sudden acceleration. BUT!!! Now it back fires through the exhaust on quick acceleration. Always something.
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