The Ford Barn

47COE · 08-14-2012, 04:23 PM

I'm working on a 1941 COE truck with 59-AB engine. It has just one temperature sender, apparently standard practice in 1941.

My 47 COE has two senders.

Should I get a two prong sender and wire it like the later engines? Or is one good enough?

I don't plan to enter it for point judging. I just want a reliable truck.

Tom

paul2748 · 08-14-2012, 07:52 PM

If you have two regular senders (not the double post one used in cars) you can run one gauge by wiring them into a double pole switch (toggle switch works good) and then one wire to the gauge. Flip the switch and you can see the temperature on one side or the other.

bige386 · 08-14-2012, 08:38 PM

I have two temp gauges in my 46. Its set up three in a row. Temp , oil , Temp. They are hooked up independent from one another. It works for me.

47COE · 08-15-2012, 12:38 AM

Two votes for reading each side.

Adding a toggle switch is definitely easier than adding a gauge. I'll think about that option.

Tom

Henry/Kokomo · 08-15-2012, 07:55 AM

One more option. . . . I have the stock gauge wired to a single post temp sensor on the left (typically cooler) cylinder head and an after-market temperature gauge installed on the right (typically hotter) cylinder head. I did this after installing a rebuilt engine. By using the two gauges, I can see how hot the engine is running compared to the previous engine (used same sending unit and same stock gauge) as well as getting a temperature reading, in degrees F., from the after-market gauge. I admit its probably overkill. FWIW

41LjH · 08-15-2012, 08:48 AM

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One sensor will monitor one side of the engine. If you use two sensors, one one post and one two post daisy changed together the single post becomes the "O' S**T sensor". Went the single post activates the stock gauge shows max deflection or max hot. Either two gauges or a toggle switch and two sensors with one gauge allows more accurate monitoring of both sides of the engine.

47COE · 08-15-2012, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 41LjH

When the single post activates the stock gauge shows max deflection or max hot.

I thought it was the other way around. The two post left hand side is the one that just switches to max. hot while the one post right hand side actually measures temperature.

To read both heads with one gauge and a switch, I'd need two single post senders?

Tom

41LjH · 08-17-2012, 05:56 AM

"To read both heads with one gauge and a switch, I'd need two single post senders?"

Yes and make sure the senders are compatible with the gauge. Personally I use an electric Stewart Warner gauge and SW senders.

Newc · 08-15-2012, 12:27 PM

Hi Tom; Just remember that those senders are listed new for $65!!!! Call me if you need a used one, and save all you find. Newc [Dale N]

47COE · 08-15-2012, 02:00 PM

Dale, they certainly aren't cheap but aren't quite $65. Bob Drake has them for $60 and Macs for $50.

Do they ever go bad?

We can talk about it at the picnic tonight.

Tom

Graeme / New Zealand · 08-17-2012, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47COE

Dale, they certainly aren't cheap but aren't quite $65. Bob Drake has them for $60 and Macs for $50.

Do they ever go bad?

We can talk about it at the picnic tonight.

Tom

Go for a good second hand one. The repops are rubbish. I've had 2 go on me.

GB

Rand · 08-16-2012, 10:03 PM

How can a guy test them to see if its accurate or not?
Randy

rotorwrench · 08-17-2012, 06:45 AM

[QUOTE=Rand;480756]How can a guy test them to see if its accurate or not?

You can test any temperature monitor system if you have a hot plate, a pan of oil (oil won't boil over like water but I use synthetic oil that won't catch fire either), an accurate thermometer, and some jumper leads to connect the system to temp senders strategically suspended in the pan of oil on the hot plate. Ground paths have to be observed too so I usually use a partially insulated copper wire to wrap around the sender to suspend it in the pan. The wire must be insulated from the pan and have a way to connect to it and then connect back to the ground path on the vehicle.

If your thermometer or pyrometer to check the hot oil temp is accurate, you can see how far off the vehicles temperature indication is from the actual temp of the test media. You can also test the temp sensitive switch that the later vehicles use this way. You will know exactly what temp the switch opens at.

08-14-2012, 04:23 PM	#1
47COE Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Oregon Posts: 220	Temperature sender: one or two? I'm working on a 1941 COE truck with 59-AB engine. It has just one temperature sender, apparently standard practice in 1941. My 47 COE has two senders. Should I get a two prong sender and wire it like the later engines? Or is one good enough? I don't plan to enter it for point judging. I just want a reliable truck. Tom

08-14-2012, 07:52 PM	#2
paul2748 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Midland Park, NJ Posts: 4,290	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? If you have two regular senders (not the double post one used in cars) you can run one gauge by wiring them into a double pole switch (toggle switch works good) and then one wire to the gauge. Flip the switch and you can see the temperature on one side or the other.

08-14-2012, 08:38 PM	#3
bige386 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 264	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? I have two temp gauges in my 46. Its set up three in a row. Temp , oil , Temp. They are hooked up independent from one another. It works for me. __________________ The Lord is the light--allow Him to guide you.

08-15-2012, 12:38 AM	#4
47COE Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Oregon Posts: 220	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? Two votes for reading each side. Adding a toggle switch is definitely easier than adding a gauge. I'll think about that option. Tom

08-15-2012, 07:55 AM	#5
Henry/Kokomo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kokomo, Indiana Posts: 1,731	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? One more option. . . . I have the stock gauge wired to a single post temp sensor on the left (typically cooler) cylinder head and an after-market temperature gauge installed on the right (typically hotter) cylinder head. I did this after installing a rebuilt engine. By using the two gauges, I can see how hot the engine is running compared to the previous engine (used same sending unit and same stock gauge) as well as getting a temperature reading, in degrees F., from the after-market gauge. I admit its probably overkill. FWIW

08-15-2012, 08:48 AM	#6
41LjH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: NW North Carolina Posts: 461	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) One sensor will monitor one side of the engine. If you use two sensors, one one post and one two post daisy changed together the single post becomes the "O' ST sensor". Went the single post activates the stock gauge shows max deflection or max hot. Either two gauges or a toggle switch and two sensors with one gauge allows more accurate monitoring of both sides of the engine. __________________ 3 pedals, 3 gears, no valve-covers.. Now THAT is a hot rod** !! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmwwB34vxJE

08-15-2012, 12:27 PM	#9
Newc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,908	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? Hi Tom; Just remember that those senders are listed new for $65!!!! Call me if you need a used one, and save all you find. Newc [Dale N]

08-15-2012, 02:00 PM	#10
47COE Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Oregon Posts: 220	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? Dale, they certainly aren't cheap but aren't quite $65. Bob Drake has them for $60 and Macs for $50. Do they ever go bad? We can talk about it at the picnic tonight. Tom

08-16-2012, 10:03 PM	#12
Rand Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 380	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? How can a guy test them to see if its accurate or not? Randy

08-17-2012, 06:45 AM	#13
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 17,409	Re: Temperature sender: one or two? [QUOTE=Rand;480756]How can a guy test them to see if its accurate or not? You can test any temperature monitor system if you have a hot plate, a pan of oil (oil won't boil over like water but I use synthetic oil that won't catch fire either), an accurate thermometer, and some jumper leads to connect the system to temp senders strategically suspended in the pan of oil on the hot plate. Ground paths have to be observed too so I usually use a partially insulated copper wire to wrap around the sender to suspend it in the pan. The wire must be insulated from the pan and have a way to connect to it and then connect back to the ground path on the vehicle. If your thermometer or pyrometer to check the hot oil temp is accurate, you can see how far off the vehicles temperature indication is from the actual temp of the test media. You can also test the temp sensitive switch that the later vehicles use this way. You will know exactly what temp the switch opens at.